let's say you haven't used your boat in months and want to get it ready

[hourglass]

what all would you do and what products would you use? 2005 ex330 210. i was just going to do oil/filter change, impeller change, check all fluids, new spark plugs, and check trailer hubs and lugs. should i have the sac. zinc anode replaced? do i need a new FCC at this point? pink or green dex? boat has 400+ hours on it. this would make it alot easier on me. thanks for the help.

p.s. how do i know if i have serpentine, crank, or pulley? it's a walthers

[AirTool]

what all would you do and what products would you use? 2005 ex330 210. i was just going to do oil/filter change, impeller change, check all fluids, new spark plugs, and check trailer hubs and lugs. should i have the sac. zinc anode replaced? do i need a new FCC at this point? pink or green dex? boat has 400+ hours on it. this would make it alot easier on me. thanks for the help.

p.s. how do i know if i have serpentine, crank, or pulley? it's a walthers

You have a serpentine belt...I guarantee it.

[bobchris]

dexcool is orange... RV-antifreeze comes in different colors and is not meant for a closed cooling system only winter lay-up.

[hourglass]

orange, pink, same diff. im slightly color blind.

[bobchris]

orange, pink, same diff. im slightly color blind.

same dif think not ..it only comes in one color and does not come in multiply colors, DUH

[hourglass]

as far as i know it comes in green and pink, which some may see as orange. or im wrong and it comes in pink, orange, and green.

[hourglass]

impeller-serpentine(rp061022)

plugs-platinum(rp030010

dist. cap(ra108009

do i need a new cap? what about new plug wires? i just want to get what i need and nothing i don't.

[LT206]

Your plugs, wires, and dist cap are probably fine. I just changed mine last fall after 650 hours and it was running good.

Oil, filter, and removal of impeller should have been done when you winterized it last fall. If you didn't do it then I would now. I'd definitely change the impeller if it's been sitting in the housing all winter since it's likely formed to the shape of the housing and will no longer give good suction. If you took it out when you winterized and it looks ok, then just put it back in.

I'm not aware of a zinc anode on these boats - if so, it's a new one on me.

Your FCC itself is fine, you may want to replace the filter inside if it hasn't been replaced before - how many hours since it was replaced?

Unless you have closed cooling you have no need for antifreeze, and as bobchris said, don't use pink RV antifreeze.

Read your owner's manual, it tells you how to properly winterize and de winterize.

[hourglass]

i do have closed cooling. pcm says use pink/orange dex 50/50 with water. thats what i've been using. sac. zinc anode part # is R168005. i change my plugs every year so they don't get stuck. thanks for the help. fuel filter is like 15.00 so i'll do that too.

[hourglass]

sorry to beat a dead horse here...i'm slightly confused about the fuel filter. should i be replacing the pre filter or filter? i got everything else worked out as far as parts. also picked up an old cc plate to go on the back of the truck in place of yukon.

[AirTool]

sorry to beat a dead horse here...i'm slightly confused about the fuel filter. should i be replacing the pre filter or filter? i got everything else worked out as far as parts. also picked up an old cc plate to go on the back of the truck in place of yukon.

You can change the pre-filter if you want. You might want to do it once if you have lots of hours. I bought one for a spare and have never changed it. It is just a screen. I've kept it in my marine tool box just in case I ever get surprised. You need to double check to see if your year actuall has a pre-filter. They only did that only a couple of years. Otherwise, just change the pleated main filter.

Be sure NOT to mix that GM antifreeze stronger than 50:50. It has a tendency to gel. You also need to keep an eye on the intake gaskets. 5.7 vortec engines have chronic problems with those gaskets. The raw water cooled engines will probably never see a problem because they don't operate pressurized.

[hourglass]

thanks. i have been reading over tha pcm manual quite deeply the last day. doing an oil/filter change next week and new impeller, fluid check. and yes 50/50 is the magic ratio, but thank you. so i should have my shop check the gaskets with 400 plus hours? anything else you'd recommend? i had an engine alignment about 100 hours ago.

[AirTool]

so i should have my shop check the gaskets with 400 plus hours?

I'm not sure if that system can be easily pressure tested. What type of cap does it have? maybe there is an adapter for the pressure tool or one could tap into one of the threaded manifold plugs or a hose.

No need to test just becase....first step would be to keep tabs on the level. If the level is not going down, you don't have a leak.

[hourglass]

you mean a compression test?

[AirTool]

you mean a compression test?

No. I mean pressure/leak test the closed side of the cooling system.