Battery and Component mounting questions

[Chad52]

I am trying to plan my battery / charging system that I will be adding to my boat and had few questions.

First off, I have an 08 210 SAN. The stock state is that it has a battery "hole" cut into the floor on each side of the boat, under the seats. The batteries run through a standard Perko switch.

I currently have already purchased two new batteries, Group 29 size flooded type (from Sam's). These will be replaceing the port side Interstate battery to be used for the accessories. They will be in parallel. Batteries are same age, unused, etc. I'm trying to decide how to mount them. My immediate choices are 1.) enlarge the existing "hole" to be large enough to fit both batteries. The thought of cutting my boat, while practical, scares me. The batteries would be in the hole , but not in battery boxes. Option 2.) Mount both batteries (in battery boxes) under the passenger seat under the glove box, as far forward as possible. So here are my initial questions. Why do people use battery boxes? Is it to meet a Coast Gurad regulation or are the unneccessary? They take up a lot of space. Second question, I will be using an onboard charger. If I have the batteries charging with the seats down (closed) will I have a venting problem? Do I need to plan for additional venting, or do most people plug it up and forget it? Thirdly, I am planning on using a Prosport 20 charger. Where do most people mount it? I am planning on mounting it on a custom amp board that I am making to mount on the portside standard amp mounting location under the passenger seat. And last, if I need to extend the wires on the charger to reach my starboard (starting) battery, is there any harm in that? The line is already fused, and I feel fine about attaching a leader to it. I just don't want to spend $30-$40 for the "official" extender if I don't have to.

Thanks in advance,

Chad

[Chad52]

Bump.

Any comments?

Chad

[ers906]

I am currently enlarging the battery "hole" in my 2002 SAN. It really is not that difficult or scary once you wrap you head around the fact that you are cutting into your boat. There is such a lack of space for storage on these boats I didnt want to give up any if I had to. I am actually enlarging the compartment to take two 27s and a single 24 starting battery. Since they are under the seat I am not going to have them in boxes, but rather secured in trays. As far as venting goes, I believe that the opening to the back V-drive side area and the engine compartment should be enough.
Eric

[mrbobolina]

I have a 97 SNOB, space is obviously a problem. I left the hole alone. It was not because I was afraid to cut. Fabrication with fiberglass is actually pretty simple. What did not sit well with me was shopping for a lid. I know lame right? But the **** thing needs to be sealed at the top. After further review the batter was also going to sit a bit tall, which I did not want. The alternate shorter batter was not enough endless power either.

Instead what I elected to do was to create a rack out of 1X1" alluminum. Super easy to cut with a saw-saw or a dremel which is what I used. Machine screws, all of which is available at Home Depot. For the shelf part of the rack, use Marine Board, you can get it at Tap Plastic. Pretty cool stuff, it is what boat companies use to make any wall component in the boat.

The aluminum rack went under the front of the driver seat. I have a 70 lb, mama jamma battery there, which is the stereo battery. There are also 3 amps tucked fown there as well. Two are on shelves on the rack, and one is mounted to the side where my walkthrough is.

Using marine board again I created a wall for the front, and of course carpeted it with a locking cabinet. where the battery is, and another below where the amps are.

If you looke at it from the outside, looks totally stock clean. I like to have things hidden away in my cars and boat as much as I can.

The advantage I like about this aside from not cutting the boat, is that I have I have my fuses, my amps and my perko all next to one another with the boat battery in the front by the driver. Not asking people to get up and manouver around if I have to go MaGyver on the stereo system.

From a cost standpoint this is all about $100, assuming you have the means to cut with. The carpet will add to this cost a little depending on what you get there.

The sacrafice: I had an heater that ran through this front area I took out. I think I will mount it again with more narrow tubes, but not a high priroty right now.

Hope this helps?

[RainDog]

I didn't have a battery box in the starboard side of my boat so I cut one in. There is a thread in the DIY section. I just got the two D31M Optimas mounted last weekend but the batteries were dead on the camera. I'll take pics and close out the DIY thread in a couple of weeks. It worked out perfectly. I added a simple strap to hold the batteries down. It looks better than factory with the seat installed. I ended keeping the flooded starting battery in the factory location and added a Hellroaring isolator/combiner. Audio and ballast pumps are off the Optimas, starting and operation are off the starting battery.

Next year, I think I'll lay up a nice fiberglass cover for the batteries.

I wouldn't want the batteries under my observer's seat. I want the space for storage and batteries belong near the engine in my opinion.

[core-rider]

Here is the regulation I found for batteries by the USCG...

TITLE 33 - NAVIGATION AND NAVIGABLE WATERS

CHAPTER I - COAST GUARD, DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY

SUBCHAPTER S - BOATING SAFETY

PART 183 - BOATS AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT

subpart i - ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

183.420 - Batteries.

(a) Each installed battery must not move more than one inch in any direction when a pulling force of 90 pounds or twice the battery weight, whichever is less, is applied through the center of gravity of the battery as follows: (1) Vertically for a duration of one minute.

(2) Horizontally and parallel to the boat's center line for a duration of one minute fore and one minute aft.

(3) Horizontally and perpendicular to the boat's center line for a duration of one minute to starboard and one minute to port.

(b) Each battery must be installed so that metallic objects cannot come in contact with the ungrounded battery terminals.

(c) Each metallic fuel line and fuel system component within 12 inches and above the horizontal plane of the battery top surface as installed must be shielded with dielectric material.

(d) Each battery must not be directly above or below a fuel tank, fuel filter, or fitting in a fuel line.

(e) A vent system or other means must be provided to permit the discharge from the boat of hydrogen gas released by the battery.

(f) [Reserved] (g) Each battery terminal connector must not depend on spring tension for its mechanical connection to the terminal.

I guess the part about metal objects not coming into contact with the terminals is the big requirement for battery boxes, or at least some kind of cover over them. The battery boxes do make it easier to mount the battery in a stable spot since the strap over the cover holds everything in place. I would worry about putting the batteries in the same spot with your amps, head unit, etc. because the off-gassing of the batteries would cause the electrical components to corrode quicker.

If I remember correctly the factory battery placement in '08 was either side of the boat under the rear seats. Why not leave the "system" batteries there and mount a starter battery in the bow under that seat. It would require running large cable from front to rear, but that is a nice out of the way area that the added weight would come in handy. That way you wouldn't have to cut up the boat and lay fiberglass as well.

[Chad52]

RainDog,

Where did you mount your isolator?