Oil change intervals (Valvoline VR1)

[mf01]

I currently use Rotella 15w40. I'm worried about summer protection, since it's a multi. I currently change it every 6 months. What are suggestions for intervals? Does it matter that the Valvoline is a racing oil (change more often)?

[Mikeski]

simple answer is no. Your PCM manual states that service intervals must be respected regardless of the use of higher quality oils.

Personally, I change my oil at least once per year or at least once every 50 hours whichever comes first. Some guys change oil at the end of the summer then again at the beginning of summer even if the boat is just sitting. I don't see the value in that, frankly I think it is environmentally irresponsible.

[mf01]

I'm not trying to extend it. I was wondering if I needed to change it more often with the racing oil. Right now it's every 6 months, but that's only about 25-30 hours. Are you running the 40w or the 20w50 VR1?

[DanielC]

I change the oil about every 50 hours, and when I winterize the engine in the fall. That way it does not sit over the Winter with dirty contaminated oil in it.
Do not use orange oil filters. You can get a Motorcraft FL1-A at Walmart for less than $4.00
My 1997 Ski Nautique has 2246.5 hours on it.
I use the Valvoline VR-1, 40 weight, 4.5 quarts.

[TRBenj]

Does it matter that the Valvoline is a racing oil (change more often)?

Some racing oils (including the blue bottle Valvoline Racing) should be changed frequently, as they lack the normal detergents package that most oils have. VR1 does NOT fall into this category- it has all the normal detergents to run a standard oil change interval.

[Nordicron]

Why change in fall just drain it.

For all you guys that change in fall: I understand the mentality of changing oil in the fall but if you’re worried about old oil sitting there all winter why not just drain it in the fall but wait to add new oil in the spring?

For this year I elected to not to change in the fall because I really don't think it hurst anything sitting in the pan but I also didn't want to start it up this spring with the old oil in it so what I did is change it before doing the spring runup. Was probably a little harder to suck out than it would have been if it was hot but wasn't that bad.

[mf01]

What are everyone's opinions on weight? Straight 40 or 20w50. I start to pull someone not that long after I start the engine up, so I'm leaning towards the multi. I'm guessing I would need a longer idle warm up with the straight.

[chris196]

What are everyone's opinions on weight? Straight 40 or 20w50. I start to pull someone not that long after I start the engine up, so I'm leaning towards the multi. I'm guessing I would need a longer idle warm up with the straight.

I did use VR1 40W, but can't find it easily in Austin any more, so I switched to the 20w50. This will be my second season on it. No problems so far, but who knows for the long run. I think it'll be fine.

I also pretty much put the boat in and start pulling, so the multi seems better to me also.
I might consider the shell rotella 15W40 for next year. I think that has the ZDDP needed and I saw it at Autozone.

[mf01]

I did use VR1 40W, but can't find it easily in Austin any more, so I switched to the 20w50. This will be my second season on it. No problems so far, but who knows for the long run. I think it'll be fine.

I also pretty much put the boat in and start pulling, so the multi seems better to me also.
I might consider the shell rotella 15W40 for next year. I think that has the ZDDP needed and I saw it at Autozone.

I've been using the Shell Rotella 15w40 for about 2 years now. I haven't had any problems. I know that the 40 on the multi will slightly lower into the 30s overtime, so I was worried about summer protection. According to a Shell engineer, the Rotella has 1200ppm. VR1 has 1300ppm.

[jmo]

The decision on whether to run multi weight or straight weight oil should be based on the PCM recommendations for your specific engine and (most importantly) your location/climate. If it's potentially going to be 45 or 50 degrees when one skis at 6AM, run a multi weight oil.

[mf01]

The decision on whether to run multi weight or straight weight oil should be based on the PCM recommendations for your specific engine and (most importantly) your location/climate. If it's potentially going to be 45 or 50 degrees when one skis at 6AM, run a multi weight oil.

I can't get anyone out on the water if the temps below 70. I'll run the straight 40 if I can find it.

On a side note, I've been researching this more. I found that Ford recommends 5w30 in the 351W for their trucks in the early 90s, but PCM recommends SAE 40. I guess PCM assumes you won't be using the boat in colder weather and definitely not below freezing.

[Rick]

Cahnge every Fall

I don't winterize as I am in San Diego. I put 30-50 hours on the boat during the year so I put fresh oil in it when I am not going to use it for 3-4 months. If i exceed 50 hours I will change it at 50 hours also. I use 40W.

[DanielC]

The biggest factor on what weight of oil an engine needs I believe is the bearing clearances in the engine. Another factor to be considered is the load on an engine.

I do not know how the bearing clearances compare on a marine engine, compared to an automotive engine.

One basic rule applies to all engines. Do not thrash a cold motor. let it warm up. Back in the good old days of carburettors, you had to warm the engine up. With modern fuel injection, you think you do not need to because the engine does a much better job for fuel management, and seems to run OK, when cold, but it is still a cold motor.
The clearances will be different, in all the engine parts. The oil pressure will be higher, and that is because the amount of oil flow is reduced. Make no mistake, the engines bearings want oil flowing through them, not high pressure. Less oil is being thrown up on the cylinder walls, and because the engine is cold, more gasoline is condensing on the cylinder walls, washing the oil off.
Your engine will be happier if you warm it up, before that barefoot run.

Generally the reason for driving cars and trucks immediately after starting them is because it does warm the engine up faster, and the engine can then switch to "normal" warm engine fuel management strategy. While the engine is cold, it is using more gas, and polluting, and the EPA would rather not have you do that. Car manufactures go along with this idea because if your engine wears out sooner, you buy a new car sooner

[mf01]

I did use VR1 40W, but can't find it easily in Austin any more, so I switched to the 20w50. This will be my second season on it. No problems so far, but who knows for the long run. I think it'll be fine.

I also pretty much put the boat in and start pulling, so the multi seems better to me also.
I might consider the shell rotella 15W40 for next year. I think that has the ZDDP needed and I saw it at Autozone.

I called everywhere (Advance, NAPA, Autozone, Oreilly, South Austin Auto), but I finally found the 40W at A-Line Auto Parts.

[TRBenj]

My research has indicated that the multiviscosity oils of today are significantly improved over the ones from just 10-15 years ago. That was probably the reason PCM and other marinizers specified straight weight in years past. All of the engines in my CC's (some as new as '90, others as old as '71) originally specified straight weight, but I run 20w50 VR1 in everything. The multivis gives a little more protection at startup (where it acts like a 20w) and still gives great protection once the engine is warm (where it acts like 50w).

As far as changing oil in the fall vs. spring, the comment that "I dont see the harm in letting the old oil sit all winter" is where your reasoning falls apart. The corrosive byproducts of combustion that make their way into oil over time (only while the engine is running, obviously) turn it acidic- and you dont want that oil sitting in the engine all winter. Get fresh oil in there and dont bother changing it in the spring- wait until next year or 50 hrs (whichever comes first). There is no difference in letting the oil sit in the block all winter vs. letting it sit in the plastic jugs on a shelf at the autoparts store.