2000 Air ballast upgrade

**Miljack** · 05-11-2010, 10:04 PM

You may have a point there, are the hoses rubber? If yes, I think you are right. I replaced mine with the CC "SS" versions, which are a stainless bezel over a plastic fitting, but they look nice, and they're 3/4". I also saw some nice real SS vents with right angle hose fittings, and it looked like the would work for the vents on your boat, can't remember where, but check out some of the marine surplus places.

**wcherashore** · 05-11-2010, 11:50 PM

my thru hulls are white plastic and my hosing looks to be corrugated plastic as well...

**wcherashore** · 05-11-2010, 11:57 PM

since I've already established this thread as a ballast install, I'll ask a few additional question despite the risk of pirating my own thread-

1. post pics/ comment on location for reversible pump switches (I've got 3 planned and have a 2000 Air with "smart pod" dash) I was thinking someplace near the throttle or the panel that contains the tank gauges or tank open/close knobs since I am pulling the hard tanks.

2. what have people done to avoid bags in the trunk from draining out the above water line vent lines that already exist? (because the boat will ride lowest in the back where the thru hulls are located, the bags will sit above the thru hulls while underway and thus drain slightly)

Thanks

**Miljack** · 05-12-2010, 10:29 PM

I would plan on putting the switches where the knobs were for you original system. You can get two way toggle switches, use an aluminum or carbon plate to cover where the knobs were, and then mount the toggles.
For the rear sacks, mine don't empty too much, just make sure you get your vent line as high as you can get it under the deck. I have read that a member here has used a cork on the vent through-hulls to keep them from leaking. How do you plan on emptying the sacks? You mentioned two way pumps, so it sounds like you will empty through the bottom?

**wcherashore** · 05-13-2010, 03:59 PM

Originally posted by Miljack View Post

I would plan on putting the switches where the knobs were for you original system. You can get two way toggle switches, use an aluminum or carbon plate to cover where the knobs were, and then mount the toggles.
For the rear sacks, mine don't empty too much, just make sure you get your vent line as high as you can get it under the deck. I have read that a member here has used a cork on the vent through-hulls to keep them from leaking. How do you plan on emptying the sacks? You mentioned two way pumps, so it sounds like you will empty through the bottom?

I like your idea about the mounting location for the switches. No drilling! I will have 3 switches. Do you have a pic of your install?

I plan on filling and emptying the sacks below the water line using a new thru hull for the rear bags and the stock thru hull for the belly bag. I am still working on the vent line situation and am considering vented loops...

What bags are you using? I've got 2x Gravity Games for the trunk and a rear seat sack for the belly. I'd like to move the battery in the nose at some point and put a sack under the seats in the bow piggybacked on the belly bag.

**Miljack** · 05-14-2010, 12:03 PM

I think I have a couple of pics of the switches, my boat being a '99, the dash/side consoles are different. I used lighted rockers on my setup. I'm thinking about redoing it with some new switch gear, my switches currently work fine, but they are not in the best location, they are thigh level on the driver's side, under the throttle, so it's possible to hit them with your leg inadvertly. Not really sure where else I can put them, so I'm still thinking about it...I need four switches for my setup, 1 for the RV gate, 1 each for the fill/empty pumps for each bag.

I've got the GG bags in the rear, I had a custom sack made for the floor locker, I think it's 18" w x 12" deep x 75" long? It is a big bag.

Originally posted by wcherashore View Post

I like your idea about the mounting location for the switches. No drilling! I will have 3 switches. Do you have a pic of your install?

I plan on filling and emptying the sacks below the water line using a new thru hull for the rear bags and the stock thru hull for the belly bag. I am still working on the vent line situation and am considering vented loops...

What bags are you using? I've got 2x Gravity Games for the trunk and a rear seat sack for the belly. I'd like to move the battery in the nose at some point and put a sack under the seats in the bow piggybacked on the belly bag.

**Miljack** · 05-14-2010, 12:10 PM

pic of switches, as I mentioned, functional, but...

Attached Files

**wcherashore** · 05-15-2010, 02:07 AM

Originally posted by Miljack View Post

I think I have a couple of pics of the switches, my boat being a '99, the dash/side consoles are different. I used lighted rockers on my setup. I'm thinking about redoing it with some new switch gear, my switches currently work fine, but they are not in the best location, they are thigh level on the driver's side, under the throttle, so it's possible to hit them with your leg inadvertly. Not really sure where else I can put them, so I'm still thinking about it...I need four switches for my setup, 1 for the RV gate, 1 each for the fill/empty pumps for each bag.

I've got the GG bags in the rear, I had a custom sack made for the floor locker, I think it's 18" w x 12" deep x 75" long? It is a big bag.

you're right, the placement of the knobs is different... the knobs on my 2000 are actually in an inconvenient spot right behind the driver...

I actually bought the GG bags based on your application and went with the rear seat sack because it was the best off the shelf fit, however, it is not as long as the locker

**wcherashore** · 05-15-2010, 02:15 AM

Originally posted by Miljack View Post

You may have a point there, are the hoses rubber? If yes, I think you are right. I replaced mine with the CC "SS" versions, which are a stainless bezel over a plastic fitting, but they look nice, and they're 3/4". I also saw some nice real SS vents with right angle hose fittings, and it looked like the would work for the vents on your boat, can't remember where, but check out some of the marine surplus places.

Just noticed this.... so yes, your vents were 5/8" and you replaced them with 3/4"? Did you have to bore out the holes or did you manage to fit them in those already drilled by the factory? A pic would be great

Also, did you use an existing thru hull to vent the belly bag as well?

**Miljack** · 05-15-2010, 09:33 AM

I wanted to replace all of the through hulls anyway, because they were all white plastic. I had to open up the rear vents and bilge pump through hulls, I think that I used a drum sander, it was easy work, then used 3m 4200 to seal them up.
Because my boat used the original style of ballast, I had a through hull that was behind the original control knobs. I just changed that one out (it's on the driver's side), and routed my belly vent through the locker, and behind the dash area. I also empty through the vents.

**wcherashore** · 05-15-2010, 05:08 PM

Originally posted by Miljack View Post

I wanted to replace all of the through hulls anyway, because they were all white plastic. I had to open up the rear vents and bilge pump through hulls, I think that I used a drum sander, it was easy work, then used 3m 4200 to seal them up.
Because my boat used the original style of ballast, I had a through hull that was behind the original control knobs. I just changed that one out (it's on the driver's side), and routed my belly vent through the locker, and behind the dash area. I also empty through the vents.

did you change the hosing on your bilge to match the new 3/4" thru hull you replaced there as well?

I see two options:
1. an adapter (5/8"-3/4") to mate the thru hull with the hosing
or
2. replace the 5/8" thru hulls and make necessary mods to bilge pump as well

**Miljack** · 05-17-2010, 09:28 PM

The bilge pumps on my boat are both setup with 3/4" hose from the factory. I think only the vents were smaller on my boat.

**wcherashore** · 05-17-2010, 10:46 PM

wow, what a pain in the arse....

I think the vents are 5/8"s naturally, the hose and fittings I planned on using for the vents are 3/4". Did you have to bore out the 5/8" ballast vents to install the 3/4"?

I'd like to see pics of the thru hulls you went with if available... its looking like I will have to replace mine...

**wcherashore** · 05-28-2010, 12:31 PM

all my parts (hose, pumps, fittings, etc) are set to arrive today (already have the bags) to plumb in my system and would like to hear how people supply power to the pumps and switches and what wiring/ fuse boxes they used... I'm clueless on the electical side of this and am wondering what additional items I will need and what I need to do here

2000 Air ballast upgrade

2000 Air ballast upgrade

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