Intermittent Perfect Pass problem

[rabbit]

took the boat out yesterday did some wakeboarding then emptied a tank and started surfing. While wakeboarding PP worked perfectly. half way through the surf set, I noticed it didn't beep and didn't show the speed like it normally did. I turned it off and back on, turned the boat completely off and restarted everything and nothing helped. then all of a sudden i looked down and it was showing MPH again and everything was working.

Does anyone have an idea what I can check, this is my first boat with PP and I hate to admit, but I am spoiled now lol.

Thanks,

Ben

PS this is an 03 SAN 210 TE

[migs]

your boat is trying to tell you to STOP surfing!!!! go ride.

hahaha - just playing.

[DanielC]

Perfect Pass is very sensitive to low voltage, and depending on where the power to the Perfect Pass was wired on your boat, you could have a low voltage problem.

[Chexi]

Perfect Pass is very sensitive to low voltage, and depending on where the power to the Perfect Pass was wired on your boat, you could have a low voltage problem.

My Perfect Pass sometimes flakes out when I turn my heater on, especially if if I am idling. Daniel, do you know where the best place to wire it from is (or how to fix this)? I still want it key-hot.

[GoBig]

Had a similar issue last summer and it turned out to be a loose connector going into the PP module (under the dash) from the speed wheel. Check those...

[DanielC]

Chexi,
This is what I would recommend, and I am assuming you are working on the 1999 Correct Craft you mention in your signature. I am also guessing you have a GT-40 motor, they were most common in 1999. This is a best guess based on how my 1997 Ski Nautique is wired.
Power comes to the dash pod on basically a red wire, and goes to everything, switches, accessories, and and then returns back to the under dash area, and then goes back to the battery, and the motor ground, again on a single wire.
The first thing I would do is to take the black wire coming from your heater motor, and splice in some extra wire, and ground it to the engine block, bypassing the under dash wiring with the heater ground.
The switched ignition (key on) wire is a purple wire coming off your key switch. This wire is also used to power all the gauges. Tap into this wire as close to the ignition switch as is possible, and use a crimp connector, and then solder the connection, and finally put heat shrink tubing over the connection to protect it.

On my 1997 Ski Nautique, the horn would only work occasionally, and only if the motor was running. I ended up putting a relay in, with power coming directly from the battery, through the relay switch contacts, to the horn, and then again, directly back to the engine block. The two wires that originally went to the horn just go to the relay coil.

There are two places on the GT-40 block that have a bunch of ground wires attached. One is on the back, and the computer, and other engine grounds are here. Leave this one alone. There is another ground wire by the raw water pump, and on my boat, this is where the battery cable is, and the grounf wire to the engine frame. Attach additional grounds here.

[rabbit]

My volts never dropped passed 13.5V, but I will check behind the PP and make sure all connections are good...Thanks.

[Chexi]

Chexi,
This is what I would recommend, and I am assuming you are working on the 1999 Correct Craft you mention in your signature. I am also guessing you have a GT-40 motor, they were most common in 1999. This is a best guess based on how my 1997 Ski Nautique is wired.
Power comes to the dash pod on basically a red wire, and goes to everything, switches, accessories, and and then returns back to the under dash area, and then goes back to the battery, and the motor ground, again on a single wire.
The first thing I would do is to take the black wire coming from your heater motor, and splice in some extra wire, and ground it to the engine block, bypassing the under dash wiring with the heater ground.
The switched ignition (key on) wire is a purple wire coming off your key switch. This wire is also used to power all the gauges. Tap into this wire as close to the ignition switch as is possible, and use a crimp connector, and then solder the connection, and finally put heat shrink tubing over the connection to protect it.

On my 1997 Ski Nautique, the horn would only work occasionally, and only if the motor was running. I ended up putting a relay in, with power coming directly from the battery, through the relay switch contacts, to the horn, and then again, directly back to the engine block. The two wires that originally went to the horn just go to the relay coil.

There are two places on the GT-40 block that have a bunch of ground wires attached. One is on the back, and the computer, and other engine grounds are here. Leave this one alone. There is another ground wire by the raw water pump, and on my boat, this is where the battery cable is, and the grounf wire to the engine frame. Attach additional grounds here.

Thanks Daniel. i think I understand. Yes, it is my 99 Air, and yes it is a GT40. Can I just ground right to the engine battery? That would be easiest for me. Do you then disconnect the ground from the heater to the dash or do you leave that in as well?

[DanielC]

You can ground to the battery. It is connected to the engine block by a big fat cable. Moving the heater motor ground would help also.

What you are doing is wiring the heater, and the Perfect Pass with the same principles that people use when wiring in high watt stereo amps.

On my 1997 Ski Nautique it was easier to get to the engine block, rather than the battery. By removing the raw water pump, you can get easier access to the space under the floor going forward toward the hole farther up that the steering cable, throttle and shift cables, and electrical from under the dash pass through. Heater hoses also pass through this hole. you might have to temporarily remove a heater hose, to get enough space to fish the added wires though.

Be careful putting your hand in the space under the floor. This is an unfinished area, and there is a good chance you will find some fiberglass splinters under there. There will also be bilge gunk in this area.

[Chexi]

You can ground to the battery. It is connected to the engine block by a big fat cable. Moving the heater motor ground would help also.

What you are doing is wiring the heater, and the Perfect Pass with the same principles that people use when wiring in high watt stereo amps.

On my 1997 Ski Nautique it was easier to get to the engine block, rather than the battery. By removing the raw water pump, you can get easier access to the space under the floor going forward toward the hole farther up that the steering cable, throttle and shift cables, and electrical from under the dash pass through. Heater hoses also pass through this hole. you might have to temporarily remove a heater hose, to get enough space to fish the added wires though.

Be careful putting your hand in the space under the floor. This is an unfinished area, and there is a good chance you will find some fiberglass splinters under there. There will also be bilge gunk in this area.

I'm going to have to fish a water hose through there for my bow ballast install. I hope I have the room. I am pretty worried that it will be too tight to get a 1" ID hose through there.

[jroyal]

I am also having issues with my PP Wakeboard Pro in my 2001 SAN. I've read all the threads about the power issues but because I recently replaced the servo, I am not sure if I didn't install it correctly. Issue is - when I got to PP set speed, it starts to slow down and the string to the the PP gets loose........I have to give it more throttle manually to get it up to speed but eventually I end up running out of throttle.

Could this be the power issue that people are referring to or could it be something else?

Thanks,

Jeff

[jroyal]

Turns out it is a voltage problem.