Need to replace battery terminals - but with what?

[Ski_Keuka]

Hi, my positive battery terminal (the connector on the cable; not the post on battery) broke last fall so time to replace it. I'll replace the negative terminal as well since it's in rough shape.

When I look at the existing terminals they appear to be soldered on, but what confuses me is that there appears to be 1 large gauge, and 1 small gauge, wires going into each terminal (the original terminal appears to have been designed to accept the two wires).

A few questions:

1) what is the terminal AWG size I need to use for a 2002 Ski Nautique 196?

2) can I get use most any properly-sized positive/negative terminal, or is there a certain type/brand/mfr I need?

3) suggested sites were I can buy these terminals?

Thanks!

(long time lurker, 1st time poster)

[Mikeski]

check on the geuninedealz.com site they should have what you need

[gmdattilo]

Terminal

I replaced both of mine with the universal clamp on style. I choose the brass type, they are much tougher than lead. You should be able to get them at any auto parts store. As for the two small wires (10 ga I think) I just used a regular ring lug and put it under one of the clamp bolts on the universal terminal.

As far as the old terminals, you will just cut them off and strip about 3/4" of insulation from the existing cable. My factory cables are 2 ga.

[Quinner]

I used the soldered on style when replacing mine just like what was installed at the factory, Napa has them with the solder in them, you just heat them up and slide on. Be sure you use the correct terminal for + and - as they are different sizes.

Also used ring terminals for the extra smaller gauge wire(s).

[Ski_Keuka]

So the factory boat cables are 2AWG?

If yes, if a terminal is described as "2-1 gauge" does that means it fits 2 GAUGE through 1 GAUGE -size wires?

[bobchris]

read the cable insulation it will tell you what gauge wire it is, I would be suprized if it's just 2 AWG wire.

[gmdattilo]

Terminals

Yes,

If you found terminals described as 2-1 they are designed for two gauge or one gauge size wires. Are your existing battery terminals "top post style" (3/4" round posts) or are they marine stud type (1/4" for the negative and 5/16") for the positive. If they are top post style just go to Napa and tell them you need replacement terminals for for a Top Post Battery. If they are threaded studs tell them you need replacement terminals for a marine style battery Napa should have these too. Napa is a good place to get all kinds of engine parts for your boat. Your PCM engine is just a tuned truck motor.

My 2000 Air Nautique has a top post automotive style battery so I used top post terminals. It also has 2 gauge battery cables from the factory. My backup battery uses 1/0 cables but only because I got the cable for free.

The insulation on the battery cables should tell you what gauge the wire is. 2 or 1 gauge is very common for cranking a V8 engine. 500 amps on a two gauge cable sounds like a lot but remember that you're only cranking for a few seconds. The cables really don't have time to get hot, the starter would be toast long before the cable would melt its insulation.

If you have a top post battery I highly recommend brass clamp on terminals. They are cheap ($3 each) and easy to install and they will usually accommodate cable from 4ga up to 1/0. If you don't mind using a torch the solder type will work nicely too.

[Ski_Keuka]

Are your existing battery terminals "top post style" (3/4" round posts) or are they marine stud type (1/4" for the negative and 5/16") for the positive. If they are top post style just go to Napa and tell them you need replacement terminals for for a Top Post Battery. If they are threaded studs tell them you need replacement terminals for a marine style battery Napa should have these too. Napa is a good place to get all kinds of engine parts for your boat. Your PCM engine is just a tuned truck motor.
If you have a top post battery I highly recommend brass clamp on terminals. They are cheap ($3 each) and easy to install and they will usually accommodate cable from 4ga up to 1/0. If you don't mind using a torch the solder type will work nicely too.

I'm assuming they're top post (there's no threading on them) but the posts are slightly different in size. And I've noticed many places (that sell terminals) sell specifically 'positive' and 'negative' terminals.

For the brass clamp, is it installed/tightened (to the input-cable) using a screw/bolt combo? Or is it crimped (using crimping tool) on?

[gmdattilo]

Brass Terminal

They have two clamping bolts to attach to the cable. There is one clamping bolt to tighten the split ring around the post on the battery. The attached image is of universal top post terminal but it is the lead type. The same style is also available in brass. The two bolts on the left hand side are for clamping to the cable. The single bolt on the bottom right tightens the split ring around the battery post.

You can attach your 10ga wire from the PME to any of the 3 bolts you choose using a ring lug.

Make sure you don't mix up the positive and negative battery cables when you reconnect. You will destroy the PME if you hook them up backward.

[adambullet]

hello there. i came across your post because i was doing some research on these battery terminals that my friend got online. he suggested it to me and i decided to check it out and ask anyone for some feedback. need to replace mine as well.

[Mikeski]

same advice I posted back in June... www.genuinedealz.com

I prefer the solder on terminals. It takes a little bit of technique to flood the cable and not have it chase up the wire too far. Heat rises and solder flows downhill. I usually heat the wire end with it pointing up so the heat concentrates on the end and pre-tin the wire. Then I heat the terminal to the point where solder flows easily. Fairly quickly I put the cable end in the terminal and hold in down at a 45 degree angle against a block of wood and feed solder into the terminal with the cable end in it pretty liberally and quickly (fairly thick solder). As soon as solder starts to pool around the low side of the cable end I stop feeding solder and quench it with a wet rag. Once done I like to seal the joint with adhesive lined shrink wrap of proper color and size (needs to be sleeved on the cable before the soldering process begins). I feel that my cable ends are far superior than anything done by any boat manufacturer. You can also have genuine dealz make custom cables for you if you want to replace them. It's not a bad idea to replace the whole cable if one end already fell off. I prefer the tinned fine strand cable.

[CHassmann]

Does anyone have a part number for a replacement battery terminal that worked well?

[Mikeski]

This is what I use for boat, Jeep, motorhome. I am also a strong believer in using pre-tinned copper finely stranded cables. This type of cabling is much less susceptible to corrosion in boats. Also use tinned copper lug terminals crimped and soldered.

https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Milita...NrPXRydWU&th=1

[Stevemo14]

I have used these on multiple projects and not had an issue

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BSVQLCC...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

[Nick Heimer]

I also replaced my broken soldered terminals with the brass clamp style for the post battery terminals. It was a quick fix a couple of seasons ago that have been holding up just fine.