Steering play

[Mark56]

thanks hotdog

glad it worked out relatively easy i will adjust the rudder guide on the weekend seems to easy
thanks again

[Miljack]

Don't forget to check the tilt mechanisim. This is under the black bellows. The tilt mechanisim uses a "pinch" type of connection to the steering rack and can work it's way loose, that would give you free play in the steering.

[Mark56]

Thanks miljack

The black bellows you mentioned are they attached to the front of the steering wheel and require access from front or under the dash to check tilt mechanism
Thanks again
Mark

[Miljack]

Mark,
the tilt mechanism is on the outside of the dash. I think that the bellows is just a "stretch fit" around the base of the tilt assembly, but maybe there were some screws? You will need to remove the steering wheel. then remove the black bellows. You will see the tilt mechanism, and the connection I'm referring to is a "pear" shaped two piece metal clamp that has two bolts through it. The pear shaped clamp uses nylock nuts which are crimped into place. If the socket head bolts come loose, this will give you play from the steering/tilt to the actual helm assembly. It's easy to check, and mine did come loose, so it does happen from time to time.

[waz480]

I copyed this from a post i did a while ago

I bought a 2006 sv211 ,
There was a lot of sloppiness free play in the steering i noticed when it was on the trailer or traveling at slow speeds,
If i weight the boat up the steering was very heavy almost locked in one direction and easy the other way,
I got the boat quite cheap so i knew i might have to replace parts of the steering
But what i found out was a bit of a shock lol,
It's a pain to get at the steering but once i removed the starboard ballast tank and the partition panel i could see the pitman arm and the steering cable,
I noticed there was a second steering cable just laying under the engine sump unconnected lol,
I traced it though a channel that run diagonal thought the hull to the helm ,
Where i found the other end of the steering block unconnected lying on the ballast switch wiring how it did not pull any of the wires out the back of the plugs i will never know ,
So someone in the past had replaced the steering cable and been so lazy they just unbolted the old one and pushed it out of the way ,
Anyway once i had lifted the floor under the drivers seat and completely removed both of the cables,
I found that the rudder was stiff even though i had used the grease nipple ,
So i put a block of wood under the rudder from the outside then unbolted the pitman arm clamp bolt and the bolt on top of the rudder,
Removed the block of wood and pulled the rudder out,
I found the grease had washed out of the base of the rudder and the old grease at the top had formed a seal so fresh grease could only be pumped out rather than into the rudder bearings,
I used lots of brake and clutch cleaner to wash the old grease out from all of the parts,
Then repacked it with marine grease by hand ,
Once the rudder was refitted i used the grease nipple until i could see fresh grease coming out the top,
The rudder felt lovely now,
Next the bracket that connected the pitman arm to the steering cable had loads of play in it and looked like a 12 year old had made it on the quick lol,
I was shocked when my Nautique dealer told me that was original part,
But thankfully there is a updated part now made of cast ali with Teflon bushes and new stainless nuts and bolts ,
Next i cleaned the outer steering tube out and replaced the ball joint that connects the steering tube to the hull below the starboard engine mount ,
Now of course i replaced the steering cable and took the time to route the new cable the correct way,
Once i had rebuilt all of the steering the difference was fantastic from having all most half a turn of play i now had none,
On the water it was great i did not matter how much weight was in the boat or what speed i could steer with one finger ,
It took almost all day to do it but was worth every minute,
I hope this is so help,
cheers,
waz