Initial timing of protech

[tommer12]

Hi all!
I had to rebuild my builds on my 92 SNOB. I pulled it all, put it back in. But in the process, I had to pull the protech distro out to remove and reinstall the intake. Any idea how to re-install it? It wont drop right in and seat properly. I had it drop in once, but cant figure it out.

Once its in, do I need to time it, or just bolt it back where it was and let the protech take care of the rest?

Thanks all!

[93nautique0710]

Hi all!
I had to rebuild my builds on my 92 SNOB. I pulled it all, put it back in. But in the process, I had to pull the protech distro out to remove and reinstall the intake. Any idea how to re-install it? It wont drop right in and seat properly. I had it drop in once, but cant figure it out.

Once its in, do I need to time it, or just bolt it back where it was and let the protech take care of the rest?

Thanks all!

its about the same as a standard distribitor when i pull mine out i put the engine at top dead center on cylinder 1 on compression stroke and mark where the distribitor is at and u should set the timing after install how you do that is unplug the knock sensor at back of port head set timing to book calls for 18 btdc but i put mine at 16 btdc just in case of low grade fuel i dont burn a piston it says in book you can do that

[93nautique0710]

its about the same as a standard distribitor when i pull mine out i put the engine at top dead center on cylinder 1 on compression stroke and mark where the distribitor is at and u should set the timing after install how you do that is unplug the knock sensor at back of port head set timing to book calls for 18 btdc but i put mine at 16 btdc just in case of low grade fuel i dont burn a piston it says in book you can do that

also you dont have to pull distrib out to pull intake unbolt coil pack slide back out of way and the intake would come out from the back

[tommer12]

Thanks, I already knew that. But the intake is cast iron.... "sliding" it around is a little tough and it was easier to pull... (thinking it would drop back in.... but not)

So i backfire when it tries to start back through the carb or more of a spit. Im assuming I need to start from scratch on the timing.

Im not exactly sure how to get it right. I have a timing gun did it with my 84 nautique mechanical... but I forgot the process to get the initial timing so I can start it. Once its started, and can time it and adjust the distributor easily to get it right on the money. (thanks the specs by the way)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[2004196]

Timing

It's been a while since I timed anything, I mean a while. It sounds like you're 180 out on your distributor. Get cylinder 1 to TDC (pull the plug and watch piston with a flashlight if you can, try and spin crank pully, easier with all the plugs out, until it appears to be at its highest point). The rotor should be pointing right at the plug #1 wire terminal on the distributor cap. If you can't see the piston, put a long thin screwdriver through the plug hole and rest it against the piston, this will also help in determining when the piston is at TDC. DON'T turn the engine over with the key when using this method, really shouldn't do it with the key anyway, you'll never get close enough to TDC that way.

This should get you within reason so it will start, you can then time to spec from there. Good luck, now I miss working on older engines!

[tommer12]

Sounds familiar..... the only thing Im not sure of is the point of to 1st cylinder. I can get the engine with the piston top highest point. What I cant figure out is the PCM electronic distributor which way it should be pointed.........Im assuming it is where the connector is on the distributor.

[2004196]

Timing

I would say that is a yes, would be pointing to that terminal on the cap, I am assuming it's a round cap?? You need to be sure you have the terminal for plug wire #1 positively identified. I don't want to be giving you bad info since I have not done this for a while or on the PCM electronic Dist so anyone with better or more accurate info, please chime in!

[tommer12]

Thanks for your help and replies. I appreciate it!. I have my PCM manual and it says Cylinder #1 is on the right side (Looking back to front.) Firing order is 13716548.

The distributor is round (duh). with one plug on it (Electrical). If you open the cover, the plug is where the electrical transfers to the rotating spindle for timing. I assume if we rotate the distributor to point to plug one, and its TDC, it should fire correctly then.

Right?

whew!

[2gofaster]

Thanks for your help and replies. I appreciate it!. I have my PCM manual and it says Cylinder #1 is on the right side (Looking back to front.) Firing order is 13716548.

The distributor is round (duh). with one plug on it (Electrical). If you open the cover, the plug is where the electrical transfers to the rotating spindle for timing. I assume if we rotate the distributor to point to plug one, and its TDC, it should fire correctly then.

Right?

whew!

Not exactly. Cylinder 1 on a small black ford is front left when you are at the front of the engine looking towards the back. Pull the left valve cover(the one on the left when you're at the front looking back) and rotate the engine to TDC of 1. Both valves should be closed on 1. Now, rotate the engine backwards to where the timing pointer points at the 16 degree btdc mark. On your distributor there should be some sort of mark on the cap signifying 1. Make a mark with a sharpie on the body of the distributor so you know where this is with the cap off. Now, drop the distributor into the engine with the rotor pointed at one, lock it down, and put everything back together. You should be within 1-2 degrees. From this point you should be able to crank it without issue. You can then put a timing light on it.

[tommer12]

Here is a pic

[bobchris]

This user has been banned for a period of seven days for not following the site terms of use.

you guys don't have a clue what the **** your talking about, line this up that up is BS.

A PRO-TEC IGNITION SYSTEM DOESN"T USE A DISTRIBUTOR so there isn't a **** thing to line-up as a reference. base timing has to be set at 10 btdc not 18 or 16 and with the knock sensor connected.

loosen the clamp on the interruptor (trigger device) base so that it can be rotated. Next hook up a timing light and crank the motor while you rotate the interruptor until it is at 10 degrees BTDC, tighten down the clamp enjoy the boat.


Remove valve covers to verify TDC is a waiste of time and not required, besides you would have to remove the exhaust manifolds as well.

Timing too advanced makes the engine ping it doesn't burn pistons, retarding the timing only decreases power fool.

you guys sure don't know how to tune up or adjust an engine very well at all.

[tommer12]

I didnt realize this was a professional mechanics forum.... easy there big guy. Im only asking the question because I couldnt find how to set the device and to time it.

[2gofaster]

Regardless of what our resident "expert", bobchris, says..........if you have pulled the "distributor" you want to get it back in and one of the tangs pointed at the pickup on the correct stroke. If you just put the engine at tdc on the timing pointer you only have a 50% chance of being on the correct stroke. That was the reason on pulling the valve covers to look at the rockers. You can also sight into the spark plug hole for the piston to reach tdc, or you can put your finger over the hole until it puffs out. Or you can use a degree wheel and piston stop. Regardless of what method you use to find TDC of one, you have to do it. Otherwise it's a crapshoot to get it started.

[tommer12]

The "Device" to me seems like I can loosen it up, plug my timing light and turn the engine over and see where it lands on 10. If its off, turn the "device" to get it close to where it needs to be. Turn the engine over again until I get the light lined up with the 10 mark.

[2gofaster]

The "Device" to me seems like I can loosen it up, plug my timing light and turn the engine over and see where it lands on 10. If its off, turn the "device" to get it close to where it needs to be. Turn the engine over again until I get the light lined up with the 10 mark.

Yes, essentially. Not that hard once you do it once. The body of the "device" or distributor as you intially called it has a pickup in it that senses those tabs flying by it. Once you lock it in so that the tabs fly by at the right place, then the protec advances or retards the timing for you.