Blower and Keypad

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  • ag4ever
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Feb 2004
    • 1180



    Blower and Keypad

    Last weekend I tried to turn the blower on, but it did not respond. The light on the keypad did not even light up.

    Does this mean my keypad is going out, or does the light only work if the blower is pulling curent? I did not check the breaker, but if the breaker is tripped would it prevent the LED in the keypad from lighting up?
  • crich
    • Jul 2010
    • 4


    • 2000 Air Nautique

    #2
    Having the same problem this morning w/ my 00 SAN. Spend last weekend on the lake with no problems. I pulled it out of the garage and took the cover off last night and it got rained on for 20 mins before I could get it moved and now only the bilge pump will power on. I have power but nothing that runs off the keypad will work. Was told that keypad my just need to dry out.

    Comment

    • Jubers
      • May 2007
      • 11



      #3
      I replaced mine a couple weeks ago. It had been acting up since last year but totally quit working. I ski exclusively at a private site so I was not concerned about getting stranded. I ordered the replacement from White Lake Marine in NC (nautiqueparts.com). Showed up in a couple days - 15 minute job to pull the dash, remove and plug in new one. Looks better built, different supplier than original. 2000 196.

      Comment

      • crich
        • Jul 2010
        • 4


        • 2000 Air Nautique

        #4
        Anyway to test before buying a new one never had any problems until we loaded up to go to the lake this morning.

        Comment

        • ag4ever
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Feb 2004
          • 1180



          #5
          The sad thing is mine was replaced under waranty once when the boat was 3 years old.

          Apparently it is just a poor design. Too bad all the new boat have even more sensitive electronics.

          Electronic fuel injection is great, but do we really need electronic gauges, and all the other fancy electronicly controlled switches?

          Give me PP and EFI, with the rest mechanical and I would consider it a perfect boat.

          Comment

          • Jubers
            • May 2007
            • 11



            #6
            I just crossed my fingers that it would solve my problem. $370 would have been a big waste of money if it did not solve the problem. The rep at White Lake was pretty sure it was the issue. I don't know any way to test it. It is a multiplexing switch with no easy way to bypass. I didn't ask if I could return the module if it did not solve the problem but typically electronincs are not returnable.
            A couple symptoms I had was I could get mine to work after repeatadly punching the buttons. Last time I got it to start I left it running until I finished skiing. Also when it started the starter motor did not disengage. Hitting stop disengaged the starter but did not stop the motor. Had to pull the kill switch to shut it off. After that I could not get it to work at all. No lights would light up.

            Comment

            • crich
              • Jul 2010
              • 4


              • 2000 Air Nautique

              #7
              Never had any problems with it. It just had no power at it when we got ready to go to the lake on sat. The only thing that works is the bilge pump. I have power up to the fuse box but have not pulled keypad to see if it's got power or not. Going try that tonight before I order new keypad.

              Comment

              • AirTool
                1,000 Post Club Member
                • Sep 2007
                • 4049

                • Katy, Texas


                #8
                Originally posted by crich View Post
                Never had any problems with it. It just had no power at it when we got ready to go to the lake on sat. The only thing that works is the bilge pump. I have power up to the fuse box but have not pulled keypad to see if it's got power or not. Going try that tonight before I order new keypad.
                Crich - Your TOGGLE SWITCH is bad.

                If you have a small jumper w/alligator clips, you can jumper the the center post to the bottom post to get power to the system. Remember on a toggle like that ...the "chosen" post is opposite the direction of the toggle lever. Be careful, the center post is "hot".

                If that is your problem....and you need to go to the lake "now" PM me and I'll tell you a temp fix.

                In a few minutes, I'll post a toggle switch update on an old toggle switch thread.

                Comment

                • crich
                  • Jul 2010
                  • 4


                  • 2000 Air Nautique

                  #9
                  I've not been able to find toggle switch. All I have on the kick panel is the breaker box. I started to remove the panel on sat but with the amp mounted to it it was a pain on the hope that there was something back there.

                  Comment

                  • AirTool
                    1,000 Post Club Member
                    • Sep 2007
                    • 4049

                    • Katy, Texas


                    #10
                    Originally posted by crich View Post
                    I've not been able to find toggle switch. All I have on the kick panel is the breaker box. I started to remove the panel on sat but with the amp mounted to it it was a pain on the hope that there was something back there.
                    I'm talking about your main power toggle. I wrote a big writeup on the other thread but lost it due to the site going down. I may create again in a few ......
                    The main power toggle is the one that is located at this panel:Click image for larger version

Name:	ToggleStickerNoBreaker.jpg
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