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Sure,
• Remove carpet sheet on top of ballast tank
• Remove the brace for the side panel between the engine and the ballast tank
• Remove the top panel
• Remove the bottom panel (needed to pull panel toward ballast tank to get the whole panel out)
• Remove the screws and bolt that are for the brackets that hold the ballast tank to the floor (I found that removing the brackets made it easier to pull out the tank)
• Disconnect the drain hose from side of boat
• Disconnect the overflow hose from side of boat
• Disconnect the ballast gauge sensor
• Shift ballast tank forward a few inches to gain access to the fill hose
• Disconnect the fill hose
• Move ballast tank forward more
• Twist inside of ballast tank up and start to lift up the back end of tank
• Look for wire connector to drain pump and disconnect (make sure not to pull to the ballast tank uback out too far before removing it or the connector could get damaged)
You may have to work the tank a little and twist it just right, but I found out that lifting the back out first worked best.
Reverse the order to place the ballast tank back in.
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Originally posted by nsteffens View PostSure,
• Remove carpet sheet on top of ballast tank
• Remove the brace for the side panel between the engine and the ballast tank
• Remove the top panel
• Remove the bottom panel (needed to pull panel toward ballast tank to get the whole panel out)
• Remove the screws and bolt that are for the brackets that hold the ballast tank to the floor (I found that removing the brackets made it easier to pull out the tank)
• Disconnect the drain hose from side of boat
• Disconnect the overflow hose from side of boat
• Disconnect the ballast gauge sensor
• Shift ballast tank forward a few inches to gain access to the fill hose
• Disconnect the fill hose
• Move ballast tank forward more
• Twist inside of ballast tank up and start to lift up the back end of tank
• Look for wire connector to drain pump and disconnect (make sure not to pull to the ballast tank uback out too far before removing it or the connector could get damaged)
You may have to work the tank a little and twist it just right, but I found out that lifting the back out first worked best.
Reverse the order to place the ballast tank back in."Remember Kids Keep Your Head Up, Go To The Net And Good Things Can Happen"
2005 SAN TEAM
2000 PRO AIR
1992 Ski Nautique
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Just found this post. Does anyone know the part number for the Rule pump and best place to buy? There are a lot of options on pump models and would like to have it before I start the project so it screws into tank.
Thanks for the help.If it aint broke, don\'t break it, and if you can\'t buy it, built it.
www.hsetrident.com
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Here is the replacement pump from NautiqueParts that I used. I suggest reading though the note, and the link back to Planet Nautique, as this replacement pump is not the original part, they say original part is no longer avaliable. It's working well for me.
Edit: Here is the link for my post on installing the new pumpLast edited by Beach-TJ; 07-11-2013, 04:22 PM.
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Hi TJ, thanks for posting and your forum regarding the 90 degree fitting, nice knowing that going into it!!If it aint broke, don\'t break it, and if you can\'t buy it, built it.
www.hsetrident.com
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Did the pump change last night and I did not use the 90 degree fitting. I installed the pump and used the 90 degree outlet fitting supplied with the pump for the hose going to the drain port on the side of the boat. The pump was longer than original but I was able to slide tank over to allow it to fit into the cavity in the floor and just installed the brackets screwed to the floor about 1" toward the side of the boat from their original location. Now just wishing the wind would die down to get back on the water.If it aint broke, don\'t break it, and if you can\'t buy it, built it.
www.hsetrident.com
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