bearings/hub question

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  • 83ski2001
    • Dec 2009
    • 81



    bearings/hub question

    i just recently have been having trouble with my hub and bearings on the one side of my trailer. i just replaced the hub and bearings for the second time, the first time i think i left the spindle nut a little to loose...this time i read the directions on the package and it is a marine application trailer hub. so i did as follow

    install and torque to 40 lbs and then back the nut off 1/8 to a 1/4 turn. then insert the cotter pin and dust cap....

    now i was always told that the spindle nut should be kinda loose enough where you can turn with your fingers before you insert the pin and cap...but when i torque to 40 lbs and then back off even a half a turn its still a little to tight...will this be ok? i have already put back together but its nothing to pop cap off and loosen....i just really wanted to follow the directions as the paper said as i feel like i may have been doing it wrong before thats why i was having trouble. please chime in asap as i want to use boat tomorrow but want to make sure its ok before i try to move the trailer. thanks
  • AirTool
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Sep 2007
    • 4049

    • Katy, Texas


    #2
    I would JACK UP THE TRAILER TO GET THE WHEEL OFF THE GROUND.

    Loosen the nut slightely.

    Put some gloves on for a good grip and try to wiggle the entire wheel back and forth (not in and out). You should feel some play.

    Tighten the nut one pin hole at a time until the play goes away. I usually back off one pin hole from that. If that hole has a lot of play and the next tighter hole has just the slightest play, I'd go for the tighter hole (stop laughing). If one hole has slight or medium play and the next tighter hole is "tight" without any play at all, then go for the looser hole.

    In general, it is better to have the bearings slightly loose than slightly tight/not loose.

    If you feel they might be too loose, run them that way for one trip or two and then come back and check them (again with the wheel jacked up). You will (later) likely be able to make another pin hole and still have play. Generally, the bearings will loosen slightly. But too tight from the start is BAD.

    Also, the general idea of some torque value (IMO) is to set the bearings to be sure everything has basically been tightened down and "set", then you loosen the nut until there is play in a similar procedure as I described above.

    I'm guessing that I've installed about 50 or more hubs this way and I have never had a problem. The person that taught me this method has probably done more than 50 and has had no problems.

    I know of one bearing failure "caused" by a professional. The (auto) bearing froze up within one week of use and ruined the spindle. We checked the other side and the nut was too tight. There was no play. There must be play in the bearing for these cone/cup bearings to work.
    Last edited by AirTool; 08-31-2010, 10:53 PM.

    Comment

    • tadelfio
      • Oct 2007
      • 172

      • Bullard, Tx


      #3
      I agree with AirTool. Finger tight then back 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

      Comment

      • 83ski2001
        • Dec 2009
        • 81



        #4
        i guess the bearings that i am using have the races punched into the hubs and the bearing sits inside the race....and the seal on the back...is this a cone type bearing?

        Comment

        • shag
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Jul 2003
          • 2217

          • Florida


          #5
          Be sure you torque them to 'seat' the bearings to the races, then spin the wheel a bit each way, do the wiggle test, then back it off a hair. Done trucks and trailers this way without problems, and very seldom have had to do any bearing jobs. Also, when trailering - at every stop, check your hubs, you should be able to grab the hub and have it be warm, but not hot. If it is too hot touch - problem. Hot hubs can even cause tire failure. My .02
          Oh, and use a high quality grease, with a bearing packer that pushes grease into each roller on the bearings. Not a clean job - the best way IMO.

          Comment

          • AirTool
            1,000 Post Club Member
            • Sep 2007
            • 4049

            • Katy, Texas


            #6
            Originally posted by 83ski2001 View Post
            i guess the bearings that i am using have the races punched into the hubs and the bearing sits inside the race....and the seal on the back...is this a cone type bearing?
            Yes..we call them bearings and races but that is a general term. Specifically, these are cone and cup roller bearings.

            If you have had some bearings go bad and you did not replace the cups (races), you should...or at least should have inspected them. They don't need to be as perfect as some make out to be but they cannot have hot spots or burrs.

            Comment

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