Yes you are right, the torque is not constant. The amount of torque needed to rotate the engine the first 1/4 turn is much less than turning it the rest of the way. I also feel like I have tightened the bolt on the harmonic balancer trying to turn it over with the 1/2 in ratchet. Don't those bolt get torqued pretty high?
X
-
Update: Changed the oil and tried to turn the engine over using the starter. It turned over with the plugs out. It also got some more of the water out of the cylinders. I installed the plugs and turned it over and it was ok. If there was a piston that had seized could it cause more damage due to scoring? From what I have read it sounds like if it did seize it was a four corner sieze due to heat. The next thing I am going to do is have the compression checked to see what condition it is in.
Comment
-
-
Probably the worst thing you're having in the cylinders now is rust due to the water being in there for so long. You should have done this much sooner after you had water in there to avoid the cylinder walls from getting pitted with rust. You may have to change the oil again after you get it running if there is still water in there to remove the water contaminated oil. Hopefully it's only surface rust and no damage has been done to the cylinder wall.
Comment
-
-
From your photos, you have a leak at both of your exhaust manifolds at the riser. There is no telling what is wrong inside of them.
Water still in cylinders equals rust. When you turn the engine over, there is a great chance that you will (or have already) wiped your rings. You need to do a compression check. Once you plug all of the plugs, spray some fogging oil in the cylinders if you are still having water issues to prevent rust.
Comment
-
-
I'm always surprised to hear the age of some peoples impellers. I go 100 hours (every other oil change) and scrap it. If I have the boat pickled all winter, I would put a new one in the beginning of the next season. I've been there too many times and I hope to never chase impeller vanes though the engine again.
Comment
-
-
Update and Conclusion! I ended up taking the boat into the Nautique dealership. Gave them the whole story and let them take it from there. They took the information and determined it would be safe to start with out a compression test. They replaced the raw water impeller and housing and started the boat on a fake-a-lake. The boat ran well, so there are no major internal engine problems! I had been out of town so when I got back I took it out. Making sure I had a new exhaust flapper and good water flow. The boat ran well, but there are some engine noises I need to track down, sounds like lifter noise or the alternator.
The dealership said the temp gauge isn't working so I need to diagnose that issue. Does anyone know if there is a wiring diagram I can reference? They said it probably overheated and stopped and then water came in up the exhaust. There were no issues with water intrusion when I took it out so that must be what happened.
Thanks to everyone for their input! Boat is now winterized and in storage. Can't wait for summer!
Comment
-
-
last summer my uncles boat over heated one day and we had to get towed back home. we messed around with it every weekend for most of the summer. whenever we tested it so see if we fixed the problem it would run at idle speed decently, but when we put the engine under a load it didnt really respond. we finally figured out there was water on the spark plugs. turns out he had a cracked head. and we figured out he had this problem for the past 2 seasons. the crack started out as a hairline crack, but spreaded with use of the boat. he ended up having to get a whole new engine, but if you have a cracked head and it just recently cracked, you may be able to salvage the engine
Comment
-
-
A new set of heads should have fixed the one neednautiquestuff mentioned, but a new motor I guess would too, LOL
srock, if you pickle the motor with RV antifreeze it won't hurt the impeller's rubber at all and might actually help the impeller last longer. Use regular ethylene glycol (green stuff) and it definitely can't help rubber items.
Toofasttocare, that's great that it ended up not really needing anything. I would do a compression test on my own to be sure of the motors condition. As far as the water temp sensor, those are just automotive ones on many models. I'll have to look back and see what year/ model you have.
Comment
-
Comment