'99 PAN Python won't start!

[Miljack]

Ok guys
Here's the list and the results thus far;

1. Battery double checked ok.
2. VISUAL inspection of cables and ends appear ok. Will try to test resistance in the next couple of days.
3. New "Ford" type solenoid/starter relay on back of engine.
4. 15V at the "Ford" solenoid at no load.
5. Goes to 6 V when attempting to start.
6. 15V at "GM" starter solenoid, no load.
7. Also goes to 6 V when attempting to start.
8. I can feel the starter pushing the bendix out.
9. Starter motor not spinning.

Variables;

1. Original starter removed, and taken to autoparts house to bench test. Starter motor spun, but bendix did not "throw."
2. Replaced original starter motor w/parts house rebuild (I know, but I was trying to get the D@#% thing to start! Beauty day 65....
3. New boat for me, checked all of the safety switches best I could, all check out ok.

ideas?

thanks,
Jack

[Rick]

6V means bad ground or hot connection at battery or solenoid. Could also be bad cell in battery. Is new Starter going to turn the right way Remember CC is reverse rotation! If you have 15 volts then 6 at start there isn't enough amps going to the solenoid. Just a thought, how about the ground between the starter and the block?

[M3Fan]

CC stopped reverse rotation in 1989. That is the first year of the power plus trans. The 89 and above SN has a regular rotation engine and the PP trans spins the prop in reverse Rick!!!!!!

[nms1991]

Check you connection between the cable end to the cable at the battery they had a tendancy to corrode internally and loose connection. check to see if the voltage drops from the battery with both test leads connected to the battery and you should get 12 to 10 volts when cranking then take the + lead and pierce the cable jacket with the probe and the check to see how many volts it drops it should be 12 to 10 volts, if you have proper volts then move your - lead and peirce the ground cable and check your voltage it also should be 12 to 10 volts.

[mrese]

If nms1991 lead checks out to be ok, you might want to have someone conduct a load test on the starter. The bench no load test will determine if there are short, bent components, etc; a load test conducted with the starter in the boat, will determine if there is excess resistence in the components by measuring and comparing voltage drops at four locations. I am not for sure of the specs for you engine, but the tolerances are probably in the ranges of .2 to .5 volts for each test.
Just as the increased resistance in corroded cables and connections causes the voltage to drop, a faulty starter can do the same (and still pass the bench test)
Any account, the low voltage is your problem.

* Battery - Ruled out - only other option is to hang test a known good battery. (various factors could have affected not jump starting from the running vehicle)
* Ignition switch - Ruled out with the remote starter
* Trans safty switch - Ruled out due to starter spinning and relay clicking
* Starter relay - did you try to jump the two large studs? Connect from the starter side to the battery side while the key is on. You can meaure voltage at both large studs to verify theyhave the same voltage. but with the new one installed, this shouldn't be the problem.
* Starter solenoid - ruled out due to starter trying to spin.
* Starter - Could very well be the problem. Try disconnecting the cable from starter and measuring the voltage in the run and start position. There is a chance that the start position could be bad and the reason for the low voltage. If not, then it drops only when the starter is brought into the scene. This also serves as a kinda, sorta, but not really, opposite, of the starter load test for voltage drop.
* Cables and connections. - not ruled out yet - disconnect, check, clean, and retighten them.

That pretty much covers the start sequence regarding the starter. In case you haven't tried it, give it the ole voodoo maintenace try and tap the starter with the hammer while trying to start. Many times it works and doesn't cost anything. Give those four things a look and let us know if it works. (don't keep the starter engaged for more than 15 seconds. 25 to 30 seconds and you risk over heating the solenoid and toasting it. Then you have one more thing broke. Give it a couple of minutes to cool down before trying to start the engine again)

[Miljack]

Got it started!

Hey guys,
thanks for all the tips, they were all helpful. Nms1991's suggestion on isolating the battery cables was the item that "cracked" it for me. The boat has the "swedged" type battery terminals, and they appeared ok from the outside, but when checked on the terminals the battery showed good voltage. As soon as I pierced the cables a few inches from the terminal ends, that's where the voltage would drop to almost nothing when cranked.

I ended up using a set of jumper cables, and running the ends from the battery terminal to the starter motor, and got her running.

Of course, it's now winter again :x , oh well, I'll get it all set for warmer weather.

thanks again guys
Jack