My little Saab 9-3 2.0 liter takes 6 quarts. The oil pan looks huge on that little engine.
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Originally posted by swc5150 View PostMy little Saab 9-3 2.0 liter takes 6 quarts. The oil pan looks huge on that little engine.
6 is pretty good for a 2.0, but my audi's 4.2 v8 has 9 qts capacity. It gets a little pricey at oil change time, but I have to change it less often. Too bad the v8 4runner we have does not have a 9 qt sump because the filter is a PITA to get to.
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I have been using royal purple for about 7 years now in my vehicles and love it. I have not run it in my boat yet and not sure I will. I do not do extended drain intervals like some do as I have a modified diesel and the soot buildup is a bigger issue. All I can say is when the diesel tech opened my valve cover up to adjust my valves he was shocked as it looked new and the wear on the valves was minimal. He said that it was hardly out of the factory guidelines at 150,000 miles. And yes is stays purple on gasser engines, but my diesel is nasty black after a few thousand miles. I run it everywhere on the chassis too.2001 Super Air Nautique
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Originally posted by horkn View PostToo bad the v8 4runner we have does not have a 9 qt sump because the filter is a PITA to get to.
I havent noticed any performance or efficiency gains on the vehicles Ive run synthetic on... that includes my 4Runner and dad's '03 196/Excal. I run the synthetic for the extended intervals on my truck, but wouldnt do the same on a boat. Dad has since switched back to dino oil.
The flat tappet cam discussion is a totally separate one. Anything with a roller cam will be pretty tolerant of oil choice, so long as its changed regularly. A FT should have something with high zinc/phos content, like VR1.1990 Ski Nautique
NWCT
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Originally posted by TRBenj View PostThe filter isnt hard to get to. Removing the skid plates is a PITA, but theres no getting around that unless you go to a top mount filter. My 4.7L takes 7.5-8 qts to show full on the dibstick, so I consider it to have a pretty healthy oil capacity.
I havent noticed any performance or efficiency gains on the vehicles Ive run synthetic on... that includes my 4Runner and dad's '03 196/Excal. I run the synthetic for the extended intervals on my truck, but wouldnt do the same on a boat. Dad has since switched back to dino oil.
The flat tappet cam discussion is a totally separate one. Anything with a roller cam will be pretty tolerant of oil choice, so long as its changed regularly. A FT should have something with high zinc/phos content, like VR1.
The filter is a PITA to get to only due to that skid plate. I actually was able to reach down and snake the oil filter out from the top wjhen i changed the oil about a month ago. Not bad, actually easier than the skid plate removal and install process. Now if they had the oil filter like it is on the 4.0 v6, then it would be simple.
What year 4.7 do you have? Mines an 04, and 6 qts gets it full. I think the manual shows like 6.2 to get all the way to the top of the full line. 6 qts is just under that. It's a pretty decent 2 mpg gain for synth on mine...
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My Peace on Oil
Everyone has their favorites as far as oil goes but the game has changed with emphasis on control of pollution and catalytic converters. Many of the oils have had ZDDP concentrations reduced. When you choose a marine oil it should not have an SN rating. Should have an SL rating. Many oils do not qualify now....... a lot has changed recently. Just don't pick up the bottle you used to. Who are the winners.
In non synthetics, Mercury and Volvo oils
Synthetics, Mobil 1 V-twin 20w-50
Royal Purple in all viscosities
Amsoil Dominator Racing oil 15W-50, Amsoil Marine
Redline oils
Buying synthetics in marine oils does not give you license to increase change intervals. I personally can't imagine not using a synthetic. Listen to Jody.
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