Pcm 502 python needs new engine block

[TRBenj]

Being a family of engineers and mechanics my 2 sons and I went to work: pulled and completely disassembled the engine. It only had 60 hours on it! It was essentially a brand new engine. Once down to the bare block I took it to an engine block serivce company here in Dayton Ohio and had it magna-flux tested. This will detect even the smallest of cracks. Crack blocks can be repaired if not cracked into the cylinders or in an inaccessible area. I had no cracks! The freezing water had only pushed out the freeze plug on the lower side: They actually work!

Calling them "freeze" plugs and saying "they actually work" is misleading... they are not intended to offer any sort of freeze protection. They are actually casting plugs from when they made the block. It is not recommended to leave any sort of water in the block if it will see freezing temperatures!

[PGMorty]

Freeze plugs.

TRBenj, you are right that they are not intented as a license to not drain the water. And they are indeed part of the casting process. But they are called freeze plugs because they do offer a small amount of protection against the expanding ice. Your advice should be heeded by all: DRAIN the water!

[WakeSlayer]

Personally, I think antifreeze is the only way to go. Drain first, then fill by whatever means you are comfortable with. It removes almost the last shred of fear of deep negative temps. -24* F. is the worst I have seen this year.

Tried and true in the frozen tundra of MN.

[swc5150]

What's the easiest way to fill the motor with antifreeze? Just curious how everyone out there performs this duty.

[WakeSlayer]

Reader's Digest version

Drain the strainer, block, and exhaust.
I stick a short garden hose in the raw water intake, just past the strainer, then stick that in a 5 gallon bucket of RV AF (pink stuff). Start the engine, and send 4-6 gallons through. Shut the motor off.

Tuck her in for the winter.

Reverse in the Spring, til the exhaust runs clear. No bucket, just a garden hose hooked up to your house.

[PGMorty]

Pythonaholic

PGMorty,

Lets see some pictures. As a pythonaholic we can never get enough. Have you owned the boat since it was new?

Hope to post some pix this weekend. Did not buy it new. Bought the boat in spring of 2002 or 2003 (can't remember) from MD Boats in Indianapolis. It had ~60 hours on it. At the time I also owned a 1992 Barefoot Sanger with a special built 250HP EFI Mercury outboard. I loved the boat but it was too rough riding for my dear wife. Incredible barefoot boat, great slalom boat and very fast. From idle to 46mph in about 150 feet! Even with a low pitch barefoot prop it would run 65+. With first grandchild on the way we decided to go back to an inboard with the stability and taller sides. Kept the Sanger until 2007 and took both boats to our favorite Dale Hollow and Norris lakes in Tenn for many family vacations. Now it's just the SAN as I could no longer justify the 'sports car' Sanger and the family boat. Not a problem as I discovered that the Python also made the SAN a great barefoot boat - even for this 330 pound grandfather. Love the pull from the tower.

[swc5150]

Drain the strainer, block, and exhaust.
I stick a short garden hose in the raw water intake, just past the strainer, then stick that in a 5 gallon bucket of RV AF (pink stuff). Start the engine, and send 4-6 gallons through. Shut the motor off.

Tuck her in for the winter.

Reverse in the Spring, til the exhaust runs clear. No bucket, just a garden hose hooked up to your house.

Thanks slayer. That's how I do mine too. I thought about sticking a fake-a-lake in a bucket of antifreeze, but never actually tried it.

[IMPACT-EV1]

TRBenj, you are right that they are not intented as a license to not drain the water. And they are indeed part of the casting process. But they are called freeze plugs because they do offer a small amount of protection against the expanding ice. Your advice should be heeded by all: DRAIN the water!

sorry wrong again that is a slang term the true name of the part is called an expansion plug not freeze plug.

[IMPACT-EV1]

Drain the strainer, block, and exhaust.
I stick a short garden hose in the raw water intake, just past the strainer, then stick that in a 5 gallon bucket of RV AF (pink stuff). Start the engine, and send 4-6 gallons through. Shut the motor off.

Tuck her in for the winter.

Reverse in the Spring, til the exhaust runs clear. No bucket, just a garden hose hooked up to your house.

this method can lead to parts of the block not being fully filled with anti-freeze. The raw water pump will force the fluid it exit most of the fluid out the exhust manifolds and not into the block and can also create an air pocket in the block too so be warned.

now if the T-stat is removed first then there isn't an issue, but if it isn't then the closed stat forces the water to go in a reverse direction and fill from the top down and can create an air pocket.

easiest and fastest is drain the block, remove the t-stat and fill through the t-stat housing, then the hoses to the manifolds, but to each their own, some methods are not as effect as others and not everyone is in the same climate region so it might not be as important to do an effect job as it would the further north you go.

and you use less anti-freeze because your not waisting it pushing it out the exhaust crossing your fingers it filled the block.

[WakeSlayer]

this method can lead to parts of the block not being fully filled with anti-freeze. The raw water pump will force the fluid it exit most of the fluid out the exhust manifolds and not into the block and can also create an air pocket in the block too so be warned.

now if the T-stat is removed first then there isn't an issue, but if it isn't then the closed stat forces the water to go in a reverse direction and fill from the top down and can create an air pocket.

easiest and fastest is drain the block, remove the t-stat and fill through the t-stat housing, then the hoses to the manifolds, but to each their own, some methods are not as effect as others and not everyone is in the same climate region so it might not be as important to do an effect job as it would the further north you go.

and you use less anti-freeze because your not waisting it pushing it out the exhaust crossing your fingers it filled the block.

Have fun with that method on a backwards big block 502 in an older SAN. It would take you longer to even reach the thermostat housing than the whole process through the intake hose. I am also not overly concerned about losing $6 worth of GRAS RV antifreeze. This method has provided me with 15 years of crack free engines in central MN. We hit -40* every couple of years. Also, this is not a fast, nor easy method in my wife's 289.
I should have noted that my method is after warming the engine to operating temp.

Definitely to each his own here.

[IMPACT-EV1]

yes not the best for a v-drive by any means, DD yes much easier, only risk is opening up the block drains with the engine hot and draining the hot water and then hoping the t-stat doesn't close before you get the plugs back in. But again each their own and i would be suprised if the boat is actually left outside in the elements and survived with the pink stuff and method, but if it has count your blessing.

[WakeSlayer]

I am not sure why you would be surprised. It certainly is the case. This is a silly annual debate you seem to be provoking. Spring fever there in mild Indianapolis?

The point is, DRAIN YOUR BLOCK BEFORE WINTER. Adding antifreeze is a great idea, but still fairly new compared to how long combustion engine watercraft in freezing climates have been used..... For decades people simply drained their blocks.

I am merely trying to perpetuate the concept of caring for your engine and not waking up in April with a big old split in the middle of your block. How you get there is a personal preference.

[IMPACT-EV1]

Yes draining the block is what is saving you, for fun or maybe piece of mind for some but before you start to winterize (I'm aware it's all ready done in your case) save all of the drained water and measure the volume that comes out of the block, now winterize per your method, come spring drain the anti-freeze block and compare the two and don't get too scared when you see how little of the antifreeze drains from the block.


My point is with your choosen method there is a risk that the block will not get completely filled with antifreeze, does it make a difference freeze wise if it's not full, no it dosen't, so why use antifreeze in the first place? your draing the block completely, so what purpose does the antifreeze provide? after all the block won't crack if there isn't water in it to expand and crack it right? so then it would be to prevent/limit scale forming, rusting maybe? so then if a little metal is exposed within the water jacket it's no big deal then right?

[WakeSlayer]

Dude, please...... go get a sunlamp......

[TRBenj]

So long as you drain the block first, it really shouldnt matter much what way you introduce the antifreeze. All of the thermostat housings Ive disassembled allow the block to fill up before dumping out the exhaust, regardless of whether the stat is open or closed.

I choose the pour in method per the PCM manual because its simple, easy and fast. I also usually remove my RWP for 2 reasons- it allows the last bit of water out of it and by storing the impeller out of the pump, it doesnt take a set.

That being said, I only own and work on direct drives- Im sure I would be doing the same as Wakeslayer if I owned a v-drive!

Regardless, you ALWAYS have to drain if you want your block to have unquestionable freeze protection.