ballast pumps and switches

[Chexi]

Is there any reason you couldn't fill and empty through the factory through-hull? no check valves, and just one vent line for each bag/tank?


D

With a ballast puppy or Johnson, you absolutely can do this (although I would still put a check valve on the vent lines). But as NautiqueNoob correctly points out, the only way to know when your bags are empty this way is either to physically inspect the bags (or have your 1st mate do that) or by the change in the sound of the pumps. There is one more way, which is to time them and know how much time it takes, but that is also a hassle. The benefit that NautiqueNoob's first design has is that you can see or hear the water stop flowing on the empty cycle with an empty line above the waterline. It's a pretty good idea, and if I felt like drilling another hole in my boat, I would probably add that feature (mine empties through the intake thru-hull underwater). However, I don't want to put another hole in my boat, so I'll continue to go by sound.

One things I would change in NN's design is that I would use a mushroom thru-hull if possible. If you already have a scupper in place and plan to use it, that's okay, but with a scupper you can't (or don't want to) empty while under way, as this will really strain the pumps. With a mushroom, you can empty underway, and if your mushroom is on the bottom of your boat, you can fill and empty when underway or at rest.

[NautiqueNoob]

Ballast System Design on the cheap.

Thanks, that is a 1" mushroom thru-hull to a 90 deg. elbow (as needed) to a Ball Valve, to a check valve, to the pump. Sure you can eliminate a couple check valves and another hole or two in the hull if you intake/exhaust out of the thru-hull... definitely use the mushroom, not scooper. Scooper forces water into the system, which is not needed when you run a Reversible pump, but maybe if you use a tsunami which needs to be primed to work. Aerator pumps need to be primed, so using them to empty, you need to make sure they get some pressure from the full bags.

Just received my pump, thru-hull, elbow, switch, vents and check valves from Wakemakers and they are great to work with.... plus they offer us (planetnautique members) a 10% discount! Support them!

[wake_fun]

Run the johnsons to fill and empty. They are their own check valve. One switch fill/drain.

Looks to me that if you are driving along, water will be forced past the first check valve and then forced right through the next check valve and out the side of your boat. If you are driving along and then want to empty your bags, you will having water flowing in and the pumps still trying to push the water out your vent. If you are going to say that you are going to shut the valve off and then empty the bags you will get tired of doing that. It's way easier to just go by the sound of the pumps and empty out the bottom. Also, from the boat just sitting in the water, not moving at all, the lake water is all the way to your pumps.

[WakeSlayer]

I see no need for check valves as the pumps take care of that. I chose to not use my stock thru hull. I have separate intakes for each pump that I put under my platform. I have to fill at a stand still but I can drain on the fly. Normally, I will overfill a little bit and shape the wake by draining, if necessary while the rider is riding. Also, separate intakes allow me to fill one and drain the other for switching surf sides. I also agree on just using the sound of the pumps, they are loud enough you are almost always going to hear them finish.
No need to over-complicate the setup.

[NautiqueNoob]

Good Point. Even though this diagram uses a scoop intake, I would opt for a 1" mushroom thruhull to avoid the system forcing water through the system, even if it uses a reversible pump. They self prime anyway. By using a mushroom type intake and not forcing the water thru, I would think that it would not go straight thru and out of the vent, but thats only a guess. And not actually knowing what the pumps sound like when used, (not installed yet).. I could only guess. Plus not drilling another empty vent in the hull is a bonus... I think I will jsut run fill/empty out the thru-hull and go from there. If it doesnt work well, I can also change it later. Thanks for the input!

[WakeSlayer]

Nope, they are under the deck. The attached pic is prior to adding the stainless screen caps.

[NautiqueNoob]

Thanks for the clarification. I caught that they were under the Deck (after) I hit reply.
I would add the mushroom thru hull on the bottom so I could fill/empty while underway.

Thanks!

[paddock]

Factory switches

I would like to use the factory switches (in and out) to turn control my new Johnson pump. Can anyone help with the wiring? I am pretty sure I can't just connect all four aerator wires to the Johnson...won't that short out the system?

Thanks


2001 SAN

[WakeSlayer]

No, you need relays in between the pumps and your switches. The aerators don't take a lot of power, but the impellers have a pretty good draw on them. There are many guys who have done this and you should be able to find the info doing a search. Personally, I think it would be easier to just wire them separately, but it is cleaner to use relays and your dash switches.

[gmdattilo]

impeller pump wiring diagram

the attached drawing shows how to use two automotive style relays to make you old keypad fill and drain buttons work with and impeller pump. the wires labeled PME with a color should be the wires going to your old airreator pumps. with both relays dropped out the pump sees - polarity on both terminals and the pump doesn't run. when one relay picks up the polarity to the pump will go one way, when the other picks up the polarity will switch and the pump will run the other way. if for some reason both relays pickup both terminals of the pump will see + voltage and nothing will happen. its a pretty elegant circuit in that way. if when you get done the buttons work backward, just swap the wires that connect to the 85 terminals of both relays.

the 15A fuse in the drawing is just a suggestion. the documentation that comes with your pump might suggest something else. use heavy gauge wire (14awg or bigger) between the battery, relays and pumps. the impeller pumps draw a decent amount of current.

I hope this helps.