winterization article

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  • NCH2oSki
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Jul 2003
    • 1159

    • Maryville, TN

    • 2005 ski nautique 206 SE

    #16
    One last note on fogging. Not thru the intake of the GT-40. I talked to Ski-Dim, they said NO, dont spray it in the intake, and Whitelake said not to also. Both recomended removing the plugs and spraying directly into the cylinders. Just thought I would mention this.
    2005 Ski Nautique 206 SE, Acme 422, PP SG 8.0, ND Tower
    2011 strada with strada bindings

    Prior Boats:
    1986 Sunbird skier with 150 Evinrude VRO
    1992 Mastercraft prostar 190, with Powerslot
    1999 Ski Nautique GT-40
    1999 Sport Nautique, GT-40 FCT,



    www.skiersofknoxville.org

    Comment

    • M3Fan
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Jul 2003
      • 1034



      #17
      I don't see how they won't let you spray it in the intake. Spraying it in the cylinders only coats the cylinder walls- you miss the entire valve stem and seats, etc. And, apparently the risk of hydrolock is very high so I've heard that you should never risk it putting oil directly in the cylinder. I'm not saying anyone's wrong- I'm saying the PCM people should have thought of a way for people to properly winterize the boat when they designed the engine!
      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
      2000 Ski Nautique GT-40
      2016 SN 200 H5
      www.Fifteenoff.com

      Comment

      • tryan
        • Nov 2003
        • 267

        • gatlinburg tn


        #18
        the 2 dollar question is .........what damage is done to a g-40 by fogging?

        does it foul the injector tip? ( cylinder pressures exceeding fuel pressure? )
        is the gt-40 injection controled by manifold pressure or mass air flow?

        the vavles are stainless i assume, but the seats would corrode over the winter. a 10 second spray and flipping it over with the plugs out might slosh enough onto the seats.
        red right return

        Comment

        • Levi
          • Jul 2003
          • 16

          • Boise, Idaho


          #19
          what is the shortest time that you would go before you considered fogging? I'm currently in northern cali where I'm not winterizing. But i'm moving to Idaho in a few weeks where I'll have be winterized. Since it'll be the middle of March I figure that just draining the block and replacing with antifreeze will be enough? I may throw some Stabil in too as I heard the gas starts to go after a month........

          Also, I know the RV anitfreeze is "biodegradable", but do you guys capture it each time...or do you just throw it in the lake and start it up and let it circulate into the lake? Sounds a little sketchy...and I'm sure you'd get some looks for that one!

          Comment

          • tryan
            • Nov 2003
            • 267

            • gatlinburg tn


            #20
            i have always heard 1 octane point per month and a local boat mechanic said stabilizer is just as much of a pain to clean out of the carbs as varnished fuel. catch-22. imho, if you are fuel injected then stabilize. if your carbed, do the tank but drain the carb and make sure the float doesn't stick when you fire it up.

            i re-fog or run mine up to operating temp every month if i can. if you read most smoker jet ski manuals, they lay up time is like 20 days. the old porsche owners manual says 30 days. i would base it on the humidity of the enviroment where the boat is stored.

            you can put a hose fitting on your block drains and recapture most of the coolant/antifreeze.( that was the politicaly correct answer.)
            red right return

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