How to change the fuel filters

[CradGen2]

I assume I just need to pull the inline filter and replace, right? My real question is how do I change the filter in the canister? I have an 06 and 08 model with the tension clip. Do I just open pop the old one out and place the new one in. Replace the o-ring?

Anything I missed?

[AirTool]

I assume I just need to pull the inline filter and replace, right? My real question is how do I change the filter in the canister? I have an 06 and 08 model with the tension clip. Do I just open pop the old one out and place the new one in. Replace the o-ring?

Anything I missed?

First think through how you are going to drain the fuel. Be careful with the plug in the bottom of the canister. Take it out in the boat to drain the fuel. Put it back on the bench so you can be carefull and not mess it up. Then you don't have to mess with putting it back "inside" the boat. Do not over tighten the plug.

Someone on this site gave me the idea to catch the fuel in a funnel and route the hose out the hull drain plug. Worked great.

The guts inside just slip together. I think there is a detent for the filter to hold it. Be carefull with the fuel pump wires and inspect them while you're there. I don't know for sure, but I feel if you get it all together and the canister on that the filter is in the proper location. When I did mine, I just had this fear the filter element can slip down and fuel is just bypassing. I just can't believe they would design it where that could happen.

Do not use teflon tape on the threaded plug. Use a paste and one that is resistant to fuel. Somewhere I posted a link to one that is. Try the permatex and loc-tite sites (now the same owner) and check. If it doesn't say "fuel lines" on the product sheet it is not good for fuel.

I usually use clean motor oil or general marine on the o-ring. If grease, usually the honey colored classic stuff. I've never used weird red, green, or black moly grease to lube o-rings.

[CradGen2]

Thanks AT. One last question, will the pump automaticly refill the canister when I turn the boat on or will I have to prime it a couple times?

[ss396s]

I had a local service guy replace mine on an SV211. He said it was easier to not drain the fuel from the plug due to all the hoses in the way. He carefully took it off and then drained dumped the fuel. He had to take the plug out and stick a screw driver in the hole to push the filter out as it was in pretty snug. Either way works. I would probably take the plug out if its easy to get to. Mine was not.

Yep, turn it on and the fuel pump will fill it up.

[Chris4x4Gill2]

on my 89 I never could get the filter canister off so I ended up replacing the assembly with a newer style spin on filter, basically looks just like an oil filter.

If you have an electric fuel pump, turn the key to the "on" or "run" position (not "start") and it will cycle the fuel pump. Do it 2-3 times and it should have the fuel system ready to go.

[AirTool]

Thanks AT. One last question, will the pump automaticly refill the canister when I turn the boat on or will I have to prime it a couple times?

The low pressure pump will prime the canister. It is located upstream of the system and should stay primed/flooded during the entire repair.

I just put mine in the water and she started right up. Be sure to inspect for LEAKS

[dave911rsr]

Thanks for the help on this topic. I did mine using a big pair of vice grips to loosen it. I put a small block of wood between the bracket and the alternator to support the bracket. Worked great thanks to the tips on this site.

[MikeC]

Crad, make sure you cycle the ignition a few times, because, yes you do have to refill the canister. I think the manual calls for 7 to 10 times...don't quote me on the exact number.

[dave911rsr]

Only says 3 times on the side of the canister, that's what I did and mine started right up. Also, I said I used vice grips to loosen the canister, I meant channel locks. Couple of beers will do that to you.