steering issue...

[tdc_worm]

underway, my boat is difficult to turn to the right. at rest, on the trailer, the steering is free, with and without the cable connected to the the rudder tiller arm...which should eliminate the cable. thoughts?

[WakeSlayer]

Check that everything in your helm is tight and in good shape. Also, verifly the cable block clamp is tightly clamped to the metal cylinder near the rear of the boat.

[tdc_worm]

helm is tight, rudder is tight. 4 year old boat. only happens under load.

[skiinxs]

Try greasing the rudder port, synthetic grease is best (most slippery). It will naturally be harder to turn to the right, and if the rudder port is dry with lots of friction, the load of the water pushing back on the rudder will make it hard to turn, even if it turns easily sitting on the trailer.
Dave

[tdc_worm]

rudder has a fresh service on it...grease w synthetic grease...

[LT206]

Also try adjusting the tab on your rudder.. Tournament drivers adjust it to have lots of load on the wheel to help compensate for the pull of a skier. This may be your problem.

[Chexi]

^ was my guess too.

[nevergrew]

Try greasing the rudder port, synthetic grease is best (most slippery). It will naturally be harder to turn to the right, and if the rudder port is dry with lots of friction, the load of the water pushing back on the rudder will make it hard to turn, even if it turns easily sitting on the trailer.
Dave

Had the same issue with my older SN and greasing the rudder shaft and port helps heaps.

[bhectus]

Digging up an old post here but I just got a new steering cable installed by local dealer and at same time had them replace the shaft packing as it was leaking pretty badly. When I picked up the boat I asked how bad the packing rope was and got handed a few pieces of dried up crusty rope that looked horrible. Took the boat out this past saturday and it still didn't feel like it steered like it should with a brand new cable. Water was dripping more than normal from the rudder port so I am suspecting that the packing in that port too is old and bad and what is causing the steering issue. I checked and there is no zerk fitting on the port itself (boat is a '97 Super Sport). I'm relatively mechanically inclined and it is super easy to get to the port on my v-drive, but I haven't been able to find any good posts showing step-by-step process. Also after replacing the packing, do I need to lubricate it separately also with grease and if so where? Thanks!

[crobi2]

I just did mine, it should be the same as yours. Leave the boat short on the trailer so the rudder can drop past the prop guard. Put blocks under the rudder so it doesn't fall out and hit the ground.

On the inside, cut the safety wire and disconnect the clamp bolt and the bolt on top of the rudder shaft. At this point, the rudder may fall out. Use a channel lock or other wrench to loosen the packing nut lock ring and packing nut. (on rudder should be righty-tighty, lefty-loosie). Replace packing with 3/16" gore tex packing.

Grease rudder shaft (marine grease) and slide it back in and block it up high. Replace packing nut. Replace clamp bolt and rudder bolt. Safety wire. Tighten packing nut by hand and slightly by wrench (does not need to be too tight). Secure locking ring. Done.

[bhectus]

Thanks Rob! It is 15 miles to the lake so I think it would be easier to just unbolt the prop-guard from the trailer. For safety wire, I have some I use for my motocross grips, looks to be the same gauge, guess that will work fine?

[crobi2]

You're lucky you can unbolt the prop-guard!

I saw somewhere that they recommend stainless steel safety wire at least 0.032".

Motocross grips? Footpegs or handgrips? Will you explain?

[bhectus]

I think that is what I have is .032. For motocross grips, I usually run 2 loops on each grip, you wrap it around twice and then twist 5 times, cut the end and push the end into the grip. With this and grip glue or whatever you prefer, your grips will never come off, wet weather included. Cheap insurance.

[crobi2]

I guess we rode like wimps when I had a dirtbike, I never thought about a grip coming off. Gives me the shakes thinking about it now!

[Flathead Bill]

I have a 2002 AIR and will be re-packing the rudder post before putting the boat in for the season. I replaced the steering cable last fall which was a challenge as the ballast tanks on the 2002 AIR sit above the rudder post. Barely enough room to reach down and get to the cable end nut/bolt. It appears that you have to remove the gas tank to get the ballast tanks out of the way to have any real access to the rudder post. So, if anyone has experience with this - any advice would be great.

Also, I had one shop mention using o rings at the bottom of the rudder shaft.My rudder shaft currently rocks slightly in the post if you push/pull the rudder blade forward and aft. Any comments on using o rings at the base of the rudder shaft?