2003 Super Air - PCM 330 cranking but not starting

[obd666]

sweet, way to go ... always feels great to knock it out yourself

[bj25430]

How many hour were on your boat? And how long had it been since you changed it? I have an 2006 that i just bought and i havent look at the distributor yet, but im interested at how long it had been? And what is the recommended time that PCM recommends this being changed. Glad you got the boat cuzin.

thanks

[ricky]

How many hour were on your boat? And how long had it been since you changed it? I have an 2006 that i just bought and i havent look at the distributor yet, but im interested at how long it had been? And what is the recommended time that PCM recommends this being changed. Glad you got the boat cuzin.

thanks

She has 570 hours, and I recently purchased this nautique this season, if I had to guess I would say it has never been replaced.

[AirTool]

She has 570 hours, and I recently purchased this nautique this season, if I had to guess I would say it has never been replaced.

This is a chronic problem on these caps. They probably could just be "cleaned" every season to get the filings and burn blister off.

All: I don't know on the marine engine. On the auto version, the destirbutor housing is plastic. Two years ago I changed the cap on my tohoe and the round ear on the housing for the screw broke off. I had to replace the distributor. I went back with an Accel billet aluminum version

[bj25430]

How often does this need to be changed? I went the the PCM manual last night and was unable to find the recommended time frame to change the cap and rotor, or even the spark plugs and wires? What is a good guideline to follow.? I opened mine list night and its a 2006 and bought it with 67 hrs and it. It now has 183 hrs on it and there was some white power corrosion on the cap and some burn on the rotor contact. Thanks guys!

[ricky]

How often does this need to be changed? I went the the PCM manual last night and was unable to find the recommended time frame to change the cap and rotor, or even the spark plugs and wires? What is a good guideline to follow.? I opened mine list night and its a 2006 and bought it with 67 hrs and it. It now has 183 hrs on it and there was some white power corrosion on the cap and some burn on the rotor contact. Thanks guys!

I would recommend cleaning any visible corrosion off with a brush and if you can see that the contacts in the distributor have become pitted or have buildup that you cannot remove then it would be a good time to replace. Same goes for the rotor.

[ers906]

I tend to changes fluids according to the hour meter (every 50 for oil, etc), but I figure plugs rotor and filters are easy enough I just change at the beginning of each season. May be overkill but I feel better about it, plus these boats are **** expensive, whats another 90$ or so

[AirTool]

.... whats another 90$ or so

A tank of gas.

[ers906]

At last years gas prices maybe... This year it may mean a half day on the lake.

[emjayem]

Well, I am having a no start issue that is similar to this.... I have an 04 SANTE, about 550 hours, owned it for 3 years, new plugs then, all other maint up to date, never had any drive-ability, rough running, hesitation, etc before now.

On the lake yesterday going through a slow zone, had been out for maybe an hour, engine stalled with no hiccup or any warning. Tried restarting, cranks fine, still no start. Checked the obvious, lanyard, loose connections, breakers, fuses, all ok. Went as far as pulling out safety switch and jumped it together. Could clearly smell fuel, both pumps turning on. Pulled plug wires for visual, cranked and checked for spark, all ok. No fuel psi gauge at the moment, but some sprayed up when pushing the test port valve, will check actual psi tomorrow. Pulled off dizzy cap and it was very fuzzy and rotor end was pretty black so I used a wire brush to clean them up while stranded, still nothing. Replaced cap and rotor today, no change.... was really hoping that was it.

Dinked around with checking voltages at pumps, ok tried checking injector pulse, a bit too fast for my meter but definitely pulsing. Crankng voltage ok. Unplugged pretty much every connector to check for the green, all look ok. Now when i crank it I get a MAP sensor fault message in the dash

[Woodchuck]

emjayem , did you ever figure this issue out?

[tonka]

emjayem , did you ever figure this issue out?

I did figure it out. Not sure what happened to my account, but this is emjayem.... Anyways, it ended up being the ignition coil. I had checked the plugs and spark with a non adjustable spark tester and it appeared to be fine, had visible spark. I talked to an old guy and was told that the spark should be able to jump a 40k gap. I picked up an adjustable gap spark tester and sure as ****, no spark at 40k. Replaced coil, been perfect since