Scratches from loading

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • jedgell
    • Jul 2003
    • 170

    • Bozeman, MT

    • 2004 SN 196

    Scratches from loading

    While waxing the boat last weekend I noticed that there are some deep scratches on the bottom of the boat. When the boat is on the trailer, the scratches are just in front of the bunks, and they're in line with the bunks. The only thing I can figure out is that the bunks scratched it while loading. I took a scrub brush to the bunks and found there was a lot of sand embedded in the carpet. I couldn't see it unless I ran the brush across the carpet, it would pull the sand out. Any one else ever had this problem? I use the boat 2-3 times a week, and I have to load it on the trailer every time, and I want to do what I can to prevent further damage. Not sure how the sand or dirt would get there, except when trailering.
    How would I go about getting the scratches fixed, does it have to go to the dealer? If so, any idea how much it would cost. The area affected is about 6" wide and 2' long on each side, from what I can see while its on the trailer.
    Thanks in advance for the help.
    \'95 SN Signature Ed.
    GT-40
    PP Stargaze
    **For Sale**
  • xmalibuman
    • Oct 2004
    • 23

    • Santa Barbara, Ca.


    #2
    Do not drive you boat onto the trailer, try putting the trailer in a little deeper on the ramp and float the boat on and you problem will be solved.

    My friend has habit of driving his SN on the trailer while the trailer is still dry at the top of the bunks, One time while putting it on the bolts that hold the bunk to the trailer gave out and he drove his near new SN across the metal brkt. that would otherwise have held the bunk-Ouch, 14" long gouge in the bottom of his boat.

    Comment

    • darrel409
      Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
      • Jul 2004
      • 566

      • San Dimas, So. Cal


      #3
      In addition, make sure that your boat fits correctly on the trailer/bunks. Sometimes if the bunks arnt aligned correctly they can be harsh to the gelcoat.

      Comment

      • Christopher-W.-Becker
        • Dec 2003
        • 168

        • Ann Arbor, MI


        #4
        I had discussed this with the guys at RAMLIN. It happens most when powering off which pulls the sand and silt up on the bunks after tbe boat comes off. Obviously you get the sand and silt a little when powering on, but usually the boat is on the bunk then.

        Recommendation is to really set the trailer in deep. Before we pull the boat on, using a 5 gallon bucket and a scrub brush I often clean the bunks. As you found out, it is surprising just how much darn sand and silt can get hung up in that carpet.

        If only there were a better alternative............any ideas guys.
        Christopher W. Becker
        9323 Mockingbird Ln
        Saline, MI 48176

        cwbecker@umich.edu

        Comment

        • 66Skylark
          • Aug 2004
          • 102

          • Blackstone, MA


          #5
          I wonder why they don't just use a straight run of rollers where the bunks are?

          Comment

          • josh
            • Jul 2004
            • 43

            • asheboro,nc


            #6
            You can wet sand the gel coat then buff with a machine to get the scratches out. Just don't sand to deep.

            Comment

            • SGY
              Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
              • Jul 2003
              • 990



              #7
              Scatches

              I'm usually real careful when powering off the trailer. I put the trailer in deep enough so the boat floats and I carefully idle away. I don't like powering off the trailer and don't see the need since I can simply sink the whole rig and save the wear and tear. Before I load I always sink the trailer to wet all surface areas.

              I like the idea of scrubbing the bunks once in a while.

              Comment

              • clubmyke
                Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                • Sep 2004
                • 414

                • so cal


                #8
                i'm with sgy on the slight float away method....

                why isnt this common practice ? ( i'm new to boating so take it easy )

                Comment

                • skinautique
                  1,000 Post Club Member
                  • Jul 2003
                  • 1749

                  • Colorado


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 66Skylark
                  I wonder why they don't just use a straight run of rollers where the bunks are?
                  The rollers leave marks on the boat and don't secure the boat to the trailer as well.

                  When you guys are backing your trailer in deep, look out for a couple of things. First is to make sure the loaders stay above the rubrail otherwise you will gouge the gelcoat and the second is to be careful backing off because it is possible to bump the prop into a different part of the trailer depending on the depth.

                  Comment

                  • SGY
                    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                    • Jul 2003
                    • 990



                    #10
                    Good advice SN. I only sink it deep enough to unstick the boat with a little reverse. I learned the hard way with the load guides. Good thing they were covered with the pvc tube. I also agree that the prop could hit a submerged part of the trailer. Being careful and not in a hurry is the key. If you back straight off and don't monkey around, you should be ok.

                    Comment

                    • M3Fan
                      1,000 Post Club Member
                      • Jul 2003
                      • 1034



                      #11
                      A point many have not made here is some trailers need to be out of the water a certain degree so the bow of the boat is pushed up by the bunks and thus clears the bow stop. I need to have a great deal of trailer out of the water for the boat to align properly with it. So, we have some serious power-on sessions. I sink it deep on the off-load so I can just push it off but this year I'm switching to the previous owner's technique- bursts of reverse to pull it off. As long as you keep it in little bursts of reverse, you nullify the risk of walking the prop over the trailer and REALLY ruining you ski day. IMO nothing gains bragging rights at the ramp like a quick load and unload. I've seen people start it up on the way down the ramp so the boat is off by the time it hits the water. Sounds bad, but really, pretty harmless.
                      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                      2000 Ski Nautique GT-40
                      2016 SN 200 H5
                      www.Fifteenoff.com

                      Comment

                      • mrese
                        • Feb 2004
                        • 67



                        #12
                        starting the engine before the boat is in the water could prematurely ruin the impellar. Most can take only about 15 seconds of running dry before the tear apart.

                        Comment

                        • M3Fan
                          1,000 Post Club Member
                          • Jul 2003
                          • 1034



                          #13
                          Keep in mind there is water in the housing. In fact, from the trans cooler to the top of the thermostat is filled with water even if your boat is just sitting in the driveway. Yes, if you run for more than a minute or so you could have some problems as the pump dries itself out, but I'd say you could go over 15 seconds and your impeller wouldn't know the difference. It's immersed all summer, in the driveway or on the water, until winter when I pull the hose under the RW pump.
                          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                          2000 Ski Nautique GT-40
                          2016 SN 200 H5
                          www.Fifteenoff.com

                          Comment

                          • ag4ever
                            1,000 Post Club Member
                            • Feb 2004
                            • 1180



                            #14
                            My trailer requires the bunks to be half in the water and half out. If I have it any deeper, the boat would ride up on the wheel wells. I always back (err, my wife always backs) the traile down before loading untill all the bunks are completly wet. I also use very slight bursts of power to unload as the boat is put in the water further.

                            I also have some scratches, must of mine are from the leading edge of the bunk. I plan to replace the bunks with some that have edges eased at the trailing edge so the boat does not hit such a hard edge when loading.

                            Comment

                            • Socbum
                              • Oct 2003
                              • 268

                              • Columbus, Ohio

                              • 2002 210 Super Air Nautique Previous 1987 America

                              #15
                              We have had a few discussions in the past on 'Power Loading' in the past. Maybe this will help.

                              http://www.planetnautique.com/index....=power+loading

                              And

                              http://www.planetnautique.com/index....=power+loading

                              I do the same as SGY when unloading, once the boat starts floating I push back slowly with the aid of a dock line and dock pole.
                              SocBum
                              -------
                              2002 SAN <== Current Boat
                              1987 American Skier Advance <==First Boat

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X