Question before I buy new parts

[Lvnspeed]

Just want to make sure before I go buy new parts.....
Boat = 2000 Air Nautique
Motor = GT 40 EFI
control = touch pad

Ok when I try to start the boat (ran great about 2 moths ago) all I get is this fast clicking sound like its a dead battery. Ok no big deal I replaced the battery with a new one. Still same problem; ok maybe the starter selnoid. So I took a jump buttom ( 2 wire with a buttom in between for rolling a motor over like when you need to adjust valves on a race motor) placed it on the 12v side and the other terminal on the power side to the starter. Same noise. So is it the starter or the starter selnoid? Can I buy the starter at an autoparts store like the selnoid? I think I replaced the starter selnoid last year maybe. My boat is an hour away from where I live and is a pain in the butt to go get parts so i wana make sure before I go out there to work on it. Thanks in advance.

[bchesley]

First, NEVER buy a car part for a boat! Yes you can get away with spark plugs and internal ignition modules, but a starter is a big NO NO. It will not be sealed and can go BOOM.

As for your problem it sounds like you need a hammer and a buddy. You, with hammer, tap on the starter while your buddy hits the start button. Your starter has likely frozen up due to moisture. If you wack it a couple of times and it still wont bump over its toast.

[IMPACT-EV1]

Just want to make sure before I go buy new parts.....
Boat = 2000 Air Nautique
Motor = GT 40 EFI
control = touch pad

Ok when I try to start the boat (ran great about 2 moths ago) all I get is this fast clicking sound like its a dead battery. Ok no big deal I replaced the battery with a new one..

Is it a starting battery or a deep cycle? If it's a deep cycle that is your first problem that needs corrected.

Also did you charge the battery first or just install it?

What is the CCA rating of the battery?


I would be doing a little more investigating with a volt meter before I would start waisting money on parts. Bottom line if it's clicking then you are not getting enough voltage to the starter. So that can be a dead battery that has sat on a shelf a long time, poor connections on the ends of the battery cables, undersized cables or a battery that doesn't have over 650 CCA's that a ford starter requires to work properly.

[Lvnspeed]

Brand New Oddsey Group 65 battery regular not deep cycle. I slow charged it before I put it in the boat. I also replaced the battery terminals. The battery cables are the stock ones, I would think they are the correct thickness right?

[IMPACT-EV1]

First, NEVER buy a car part for a boat! Yes you can get away with spark plugs and internal ignition modules, but a starter is a big NO NO. It will not be sealed and can go BOOM.

As for your problem it sounds like you need a hammer and a buddy. You, with hammer, tap on the starter while your buddy hits the start button. Your starter has likely frozen up due to moisture. If you wack it a couple of times and it still wont bump over its toast.

sorry not a starter issue this is a battery issue, it's clicking because there isn't enough current available to close the contacts in the solenoid/relay to spin the starter.

Assuming a new battery off the self is fully charge is a major mistake

you'll see most shops that sell you a battery they will actually charge the battery at a high rate for a good half hour before you are allowed to take the battery, This is what a quallity shop will do, wal-mart, autozone and the like are not quality shops and sell junk parts 9 out of 10 times.

[IMPACT-EV1]

Brand New Oddsey Group 65 battery regular not deep cycle. I slow charged it before I put it in the boat. I also replaced the battery terminals. The battery cables are the stock ones, I would think they are the correct thickness right?

what is the voltage reading at the battery? What is the CCA rating of the battery?

like I sead just because it is new doesn't mean jack, it's good you charged it but maybe it's still not fully charged or it is sulfated, with out knowing the voltage of the battery before you try and crank the engine or know the CCA of the battery your just pissing in the wind guessing at crap.

once you have verified the CCA rating and the voltage of the battery then you can look for the voltage drop in the cables and if you have good connections with new terminals you added.

[Lvnspeed]

925cca and it had 12.5v when I tried it.

[NautiDave07]

My old 2000 210 did the same thing when the starter crapped out. I replaced it and it was good to go.

[IMPACT-EV1]

925cca and it had 12.5v when I tried it.

12.5 seems low for a new battery, try this measure the voltage at the battery before you do any thing, next hit the starter and then turn it back off and read the voltage again, if it still reads the same all is good if you see a drop in the voltage reading then you have a bad battery.

If that checks out fine then you need to check the voltage at the solenoid/relay and see if that reading matches what you are getting at the battery, if that all checks out then maybe you do have a starter issue.

[IMPACT-EV1]

Brand New Oddsey Group 65 battery regular not deep cycle. I slow charged it before I put it in the ?

googling this and reading some it reads as if this is more like a deep cycle and not a true starting battery and requires a special charge rate as well like optima's sprial wound units.

[bchesley]

It's not the battery if its new. Odyssey 65 series batteries have 2100 cranking amps and are a dual purpose battery. I run two of them and have had them for three seasons now. Just humor me and try the hammer. Yes its crude, but its a really cheap remedy to try.

My buddy just had his do the same thing. Tap tap on the starter and off we go. Yes he will likely have to replace it soon as that is a sign of its demise, but it could get you running.

[Lvnspeed]

Ok. The boat had this same problem on a 1 year old Everstart(neverstart) battery that was fully charged, thats why I figured the Neverstart was junk so I swapped it. I guess a $200 starter is in my future.

[Lvnspeed]

I will try the hammer this weekend.

[IMPACT-EV1]

It's not the battery if its new. Odyssey 65 series batteries have 2100 cranking amps and are a dual purpose battery. I run two of them and have had them for three seasons now. Just humor me and try the hammer. Yes its crude, but its a really cheap remedy to try.

My buddy just had his do the same thing. Tap tap on the starter and off we go. Yes he will likely have to replace it soon as that is a sign of its demise, but it could get you running.

you do not have the same type of starter as he has on his boat so not apples to apples or the same current requirements for the starter to function correctly, dual purpose sorry you baught into the marketing BS, if there was such a thing then we would have never developed specific batteries for electric vehicles where they require large current draws over extended periods as well as low level current draws. Remember once you get a car moving you only need a fraction of the horse power to keep it at that speed like 1/100 of the amount required to get to that speed.

conventional cranking motor vs. a permiment magnet motor have two completely current requirements and why you find extremely small wire gauges on PM cranking motors. so what works for your engine isn't going to work on a GT-40 engine with a field coil wound stator.

[IMPACT-EV1]

Ok. The boat had this same problem on a 1 year old Everstart(neverstart) battery that was fully charged, thats why I figured the Neverstart was junk so I swapped it. I guess a $200 starter is in my future.

After this statement I believe your problem lies within the cables and the connections. But get the volt meter out and follow the voltage drops and leave the hammer at home for the shade tree mechanic.