Question before I buy new parts

[bchesley]

It was a gt-40 that did this so it is apples to apples. Tapping a starter is not being a shade tree mechanic, bailing wire is. I had an 18 year PCM tech that actually gave that advice.

[IMPACT-EV1]

It was a gt-40 that did this so it is apples to apples. Tapping a starter is not being a shade tree mechanic, bailing wire is. I had an 18 year PCM tech that actually gave that advice.

eighteen years doesn't quallify as an expert I know many mechanics that have been at it that long and just as many I wouldn't recommend, you can tell by the amount and quality of cars on their lot.

apples to apples is in regards to the battery and it's application not the BS hammer Idea.

[ers906]

Lets play nice

[bchesley]

While impact might be very well versed in all things boat, his bedside manners are lacking. I had a thread that was thrashed that I will not repost my results in because of the pissing match that followed. We certainly appreciate the input, we just dont need a constant reminder of how smart you are.

[IMPACT-EV1]

While impact might be very well versed in all things boat, his bedside manners are lacking. I had a thread that was thrashed that I will not repost my results in because of the pissing match that followed. We certainly appreciate the input, we just dont need a constant reminder of how smart you are.

what you don't learn behind the counter is that the specific module in that distributor is also used in another application and is mounted to the bracket of the coil which is then mounted on the intake where the temputures the module is expose to are much higher than what you see when it is mounted in the distrubutor. Or that if the backing plate oxidizes and scales up then you lose the heat sink only problem with the extra protection built into the module because of the heat you really never run into a problem with that module when mounted in the distrubutor. But then that would be a AC-Delco module and may not be the same for a lesser quality aftermarket unit. But I'm sure you can tell me more about Delco-Remy designed and built parts than I will ever know even though you'll find my name on a lot of their drawings.

so was it the module that was the problem or was it the pick-up assembly?

[Lvnspeed]

Ok tapped the starter while someone else was trying to start the boat no luck. Someone else reccomended seeing if the cable were hot while trying to start it they are not. Thinking the stater relay might be the proble because it sounds like its trying to kick the bendix out be not enough to get it to roll the notor over maybe????

[Lvnspeed]

Replaced the starter. No go it does the exact same thing. I also put a screw drive between the the tw poles of the starter selnoid on the back of the motor and it does there exact same thing it wont roll the motor over just this fast clicking sound like a dead battery. I am going to take a larger socket and breaker bar up to the lake and see if maybe the motor is locked up, dont know why it would be but before I replace the battery cables I figured I would give it a shot.

If I do wind up replaceing the battery cables what do you guys reccomend? 1 ot welding wire?

[xrichard]

Replace it with tinned cable the same gauge or bigger than what is there.

I've bought here before...fast service, looks to be good quality cable. They will crimp lugs to your specification--which is going to be better than what you can do at home or solder.

http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%...ttery%20Cable/

[AirTool]

Have you checked the voltage at the start and end of the main starter feed? I don't think it is energized at all. The remote mounted (not starter mounted) solenoid may not be pulling in....either not getting juice or it doesn't work. You need to have someone hold down "start" and trace the voltages from start to finish or back from finish to start. I usually start at the end and work back.

If everything is working and your engine is ceased, your main feed to the starter would be smokin' hot. I'm thinking that is not the problem.

[Lvnspeed]

Have you checked the voltage at the start and end of the main starter feed? I don't think it is energized at all. The remote mounted (not starter mounted) solenoid may not be pulling in....either not getting juice or it doesn't work. You need to have someone hold down "start" and trace the voltages from start to finish or back from finish to start. I usually start at the end and work back.

If everything is working and your engine is ceased, your main feed to the starter would be smokin' hot. I'm thinking that is not the problem.

I think your right about the ceased motor..... I am just scraching my head here. If the selnoid was not pulling by putting screwdrive between the 2 lugs on the motor mounted selnoid it should have rolled over right? I guess at this point it couldnt hurt to replace the stater selnoid.

[AirTool]

I think your right about the ceased motor..... I am just scraching my head here. If the selnoid was not pulling by putting screwdrive between the 2 lugs on the motor mounted selnoid it should have rolled over right? I guess at this point it couldnt hurt to replace the stater selnoid.

I've not studied this unit before. But I understand (I think from your PM) the starter has a solenoid (as apposed to the legacy Ford design) and there is a remote solenoid. If the remote solenoid feeds the power to the starter "main", then your screwdriver test won't work. The main feed at the starter is dead until the remote solenoid is engaged.

You can't keep guessing here. You have to get a friend to work the buttons and you start checking voltages. Benchmark these voltages against the battery terminals (NOT THE CLAMPS). Terminal to terminal voltage is true battery voltage...if clamp to clamp voltage is lower, your terminals are dirty and voltages in the system will be lower than the battery voltage when the engine isn't running. (likely opposite with enginer on)

[Lvnspeed]

I am going out to the boat Wednesday night to take some voltage reading and roll the motor over with a ratchet to verify the motor is not hurt. I also ordered a starter selnoid (one on the back of the motor)from SKIDIM. I am also going to take some measurements for the legnths of the battery cables just in case. Thanks for the help Airtool

[IMPACT-EV1]

I think your right about the ceased motor..... I am just scraching my head here. If the selnoid was not pulling by putting screwdrive between the 2 lugs on the motor mounted selnoid it should have rolled over right? I guess at this point it couldnt hurt to replace the stater selnoid.

only problem with this theory the solenoid would not be clicking it would engage and then stop not engage and disengage.

Take a set of jumpers cable and jump start it from your vehicle and I bet it will start. You have a deep cycle battery that only produces enough current for five seconds read the spec sheet like I did.

Your issue is the battery and the cables are undersized or corroided, replace the cables with 2/0 marine cable and move forward or keep waisting your time asking questions about the proper hammer slapping techniques from the gods of all knowing that are not solving the issue with there limited knowledge.

verifing the voltage before and after trying to start the engine at the battery across the post will be the most usefull information you could provide or you can keep tying the hammer heads suggestions.

[Lvnspeed]

"Take a set of jumpers cable and jump start it from your vehicle and I bet it will start." This is easier said than done the boat is sitting on a hydrohoist 50 from the shore and the closest I could get a truck is over 100 away sorry I dont have 100 foot jumper cables. Did I piss you off or something????

[IMPACT-EV1]

"Take a set of jumpers cable and jump start it from your vehicle and I bet it will start." This is easier said than done the boat is sitting on a hydrohoist 50 from the shore and the closest I could get a truck is over 100 away sorry I dont have 100 foot jumper cables. Did I piss you off or something????

nope But I suggest you pull it out of your vehicle and then carry it to the lift so the cables reach.

You have a cable and/or battery issue end of story.

So you can use a multimeter to verify this or use a know good starting battery to jump start the boat by-passing the Deep cycle battery currently in place. 2 ga is undersized cable for a GT-40's starter especially when using the battery that you have with the 12.5 volt reading so heed my advice and fix the problem or continue to believe a hammer or a new starter is going to fix your problem which it hasn't so far.

soo once you have a good battery which reads 13 volts are more, your boat might start when you hit the key enstead of clicking. FYI 12.5 volts is a dead battery BTW and a trickle charger isn't going to charge the battery you've bought and installed, FYI not all batteries are charged at the same current, voltage or duration, your battery would be great for a stereo or house battery but not a cranking battery. Yea it might work fine for joe Blow hard that has a PMGR cranking motor where low current is used, your's requires high current which your battery cannot deliver for the required time it need to deliver it otherwise you would be hearing the cranking motor spin instead of the starter relay clicking.