Question before I buy new parts

[Lvnspeed]

Ok Ill give it a shot Wednesday night as long as I am going to be there thanks

[AirTool]

soo once you have a good battery which reads 13 volts are more,

You joke about the hammer heads? ...Does your battery have 7 cells?

I have never in my life seen a battery with 13 volts on it...even after charging.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2%80%93acid_battery

[IMPACT-EV1]

You joke about the hammer heads? ...Does your battery have 7 cells?

I have never in my life seen a battery with 13 volts on it...even after charging.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2%80%93acid_battery

know I wouldn't subspect you would have or would I expect you to have actually used a multimeter and verify the alternator is sending 13+ volts to the battery. the electrical system requires 12V that means the battery has to have over twelve volts other wise the volt drops due to OHM's Law.

But every battery WE (the Delco Remy engineering team of plant 18) SENT out from the Factory Always would have a charge of at least 13V but that was a quality Delco Battery too and not AGM deepcyle POS Same battery used by CCF member had the same **** issue and guess what fixed the problem getting rid of the POS DEEPCYCLE AGM battery and replacing it with a Cranking battery.

ALSO MAY BE YOU SHOULD LOOK AT THE **** AMERCIAN STANDARDS AND NOT THE BS EUROPE STANARD TOO AIR FOOL

[Chexi]

From the Wikipedia link, "Starting batteries kept on continuous float charge will have corrosion in the electrodes and result in premature failure."

This might have been my problem with my stalling. I might have ruined my battery (which is a cranking battery, not a deep cycle) by putting it on my trickle charger. The battery still tested as "good", but it might be marginal, which might have caused me some problems. Oh well, I learned something today!

[IMPACT-EV1]

take a multimeter with you so that you can check the voltages and do some trouble shooting.

[IMPACT-EV1]

From the Wikipedia link, "Starting batteries kept on continuous float charge will have corrosion in the electrodes and result in premature failure."

This might have been my problem with my stalling. I might have ruined my battery (which is a cranking battery, not a deep cycle) by putting it on my trickle charger. The battery still tested as "good", but it might be marginal, which might have caused me some problems. Oh well, I learned something today!

basically your over charging the battery burning off the electorlite and exposing the top section of the plates which allows the plates to corroid and lose there ability to exchange electrons from plate to plate.

using the gauge on a trickle charger as a judgement to the state of the battery is a bit tricky it's a crude measurement at best and if the battery is sulfated it will still show as good. The best way to measure wether or not the battery is charged is to measure the voltage across the posts if it reads below 12.5V then it's marginall and getting close to needing replaced.

12.7-13.5 is a good cranking battery fully charged.

[AirTool]

know I wouldn't subspect you would have or would I expect you to have actually used a multimeter and verify the alternator is sending 13+ volts to the battery. the electrical system requires 12V that means the battery has to have over twelve volts other wise the volt drops due to OHM's Law.

But every battery WE (the Delco Remy engineering team of plant 18) SENT out from the Factory Always would have a charge of at least 13V but that was a quality Delco Battery too and not AGM deepcyle POS Same battery used by CCF member had the same **** issue and guess what fixed the problem getting rid of the POS DEEPCYCLE AGM battery and replacing it with a Cranking battery.

ALSO MAY BE YOU SHOULD LOOK AT THE **** AMERCIAN STANDARDS AND NOT THE BS EUROPE STANARD TOO AIR FOOL

Your previous post stated "soo once you have a good battery which reads 13 volts are more, your boat might start when you hit the key enstead of clicking." That cleary indicates the engine is not running and the battery is not at charging voltage. So don't even mention me testing that the alternator is sending 13+ volts to the battery. You consistently change the subject when people point out you are wrong and misdirecting other members. The readers on this group have recognized that.

BY the way, I am (more like was) a big fan of GM and especially the legacy Delco Remy. They were once great companies. Maybe that explains how Plant 18 can aquire special molecules (maybe from another planet) to put in their batteries that would enable each cell to generate a voltage greater than 2.13V per cell thus defying the laws of physics and reading 13 or more on your voltmeter.

Finally, I'm not sure where I referenced European standards...can you quote me there?

[IMPACT-EV1]

Your previous post stated "soo once you have a good battery which reads 13 volts are more, your boat might start when you hit the key enstead of clicking." That cleary indicates the engine is not running and the battery is not at charging voltage. So don't even mention me testing that the alternator is sending 13+ volts to the battery. You consistently change the subject when people point out you are wrong and misdirecting other members. The readers on this group have recognized that.

BY the way, I am (more like was) a big fan of GM and especially the legacy Delco Remy. They were once great companies. Maybe that explains how Plant 18 can aquire special molecules (maybe from another planet) to put in their batteries that would enable each cell to generate a voltage greater than 2.13V per cell thus defying the laws of physics and reading 13 or more on your voltmeter.

Finally, I'm not sure where I referenced European standards...can you quote me there?

You should read the stuff you link it was a european standard. HHHUUUMMMM plates not cells it is not like a D size battery. but yes 13 volts I have an interstate battery in my car I'll send you a picture of the multimeter reading with and without the engine running.

" Lead-acid batteries (under 5 kg) account for 1.5% of all portable secondary battery sales in Japan and 2.2% of all portable battery sales in the UK. Sealed lead-acid batteries account for 10% of all battery sales in the EU"

cell tech went out when they went to maintnance free design. "


also your little hammer trick only works when the solenoid is stuck on a GM style cranking motor a Ford Cranking motor used on the GT-40 motor does not have a solenoid attached to the starter it uses a starter relay mounted to the back of the engine. The grear designes of the two cranking motors are completely didfferent. A ford is designed so that the gear that engages the fly wheel extends once the rotor segment is up to a certain speed on a GM design the solenoid pulls in the plunger and engages the drive gear with the fly wheel and then energies the field coils.

[IMPACT-EV1]

remember how you used to see Sear's diehard battery comercials all of the time on TV? wonder why you don't see much any more? Delco Stopped building them with Sear's DieHard stickers on the cases is why.

[Chexi]

So do they make a starter battery designed especially for boats that is a true cranking/starting battery but that can also withstand the pounding like an AGM or Gel battery? I honestly never had a problem in my 99 Air starting with an Optima blue-top dual purpose battery. Started every time, for 3 years. I did, however, have to replace the battery in my Tige every year. My tige had Interstate lead acid starting batteries.

[IMPACT-EV1]

do you really think the battery is going to see any more vibration and shock than it does in a 4X4 off road application? do they make special batteries for them too, no they don't, the gel Or AGM are for spill proof turn a maintainance free battery upside down what happens? Turn a old school battery upside down it will leak.

[Chexi]

No, but I honestly don't know whether 4x4's also had a special cranking battery. My post was not meant to be an attack. That's the problem with these quick posts. Can't tell tone. I was asking a sincere question. I was under the impression that AGM and Gel batteries were both good for mounting on their sides and for holding up better in high vibration applications. My anecdotal experience has been not great with lead acid batteries in boats, but it is just that, anecdotal.

[IMPACT-EV1]

there are a lot of cheap batteies on the market, there are alot of really good batteries too, some are over priced and marketing BS others are worth the price, do you need the High priced one? is there an advantage? no there is not. AGM and the Gel units do not deliver the CCA that a cranking battery can for the time required. Ford starters like the one on the GT-40 require tons of current, if you don't have it then the starter relay gets burned up. PMGR's (Permament Magnet Gear Reduction aka late model starter) and even old school GM units don't require as much current because of how the gear is engaged with the fly wheel AKA Cranking motor's design). There is a Walmart battery that works very well in the older SN with the 351W blocks, the newer boats can get by with the lower CCA output batterys because of the starter that is used. HAVe heard more than once of someone using this model battery on an older SN and having issue. He has undersized cables all though new I believe but also with a low CCA that falls off to next to nothing in seconds this is not what the Ford Starter requires.

bottom line is if you hear a repeated clicking sound when you hit the key then your not getting enough juice to the starter relay or solenoid depending on the design for the contacts to close and transfer the power to the rotor segment of the Cranking motor. and that is caused by a low CCA rating of the battery, a sulfated battery, corroided cable, undersized cables or any combination of the above.

[AirTool]

a Ford Cranking motor used on the GT-40 motor does not have a solenoid attached to the starter it uses a starter relay mounted to the back of the engine.

IMPACT-EV1: Your are wrong again. A few weeks ago I sent a PM to LVNSPEED asking which starter he has on his Ford and the answer was the one with the starter mounted solenoid. His answer went to my email so I won't post. He can vouch for me.

Does the starter for your ford have a solenoid built with it like a chevy? ...or does it have a small metal cover plate like classic ford starter?

Here is a pic - left is classic ford, right is with solenoid

http://image.customclassictrucks.com...00_wiring+.jpg

[IMPACT-EV1]

IMPACT-EV1: Your are wrong again. A few weeks ago I sent a PM to LVNSPEED asking which starter he has on his Ford and the answer was the one with the starter mounted solenoid. His answer went to my email so I won't post. He can vouch for me.

with all your vast knowledge then and the personal touch you have given him why isn't repaired yet? he used a hammer that was not the proper size to beat on the the starter maybe? The 12.5 V is more than enough juice to turn it over? just wondering why it's taking him so many tries when your on the case guiding him?