Ballast install question

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Chexi
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Feb 2025
    • 2119

    • Austin

    • 2000 SAN

    Ballast install question

    Has anyone used the factory scupper thu-hull with an impeller-based pump? Will it push water past the impeller when underway? Has anyone drilled holes in the back of the scupper to alleviate the pressure? I ask because I am considering using the factory 3/4" setup for my center bag (and then just using a T for the 2 rear bags on a new mushroom thru-hull). I could use a 4-way cross (have all the part) for all 3 bags off a new mushroom, but the setup gets pretty heavy, as I can't find a PVC threaded cross (it's all bronze or galvanized). I can make a very light setup using a T if I only run 2 pumps.

    Note, I have Johnson ultraballast impeller pumps, if that matters. Thank you.

    Scott
    Now
    2000 SAN

    Previously
    1999 Air Nautique
    1996 Tige Pre-2000
    1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard
  • TRDon
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Oct 2007
    • 722

    • MN

    • 1985 2001 1993 Sport carb GT40 2003 SANTE Excalibur

    #2
    I did not use an impeller pump, but a aerator pump that is more problematic with the self filling. What I did was cut the scoop off of the through hull. I took a reinforced dremel cut off wheel, used a dust mask and glasses for protection, a sqwirt or watter every so often to keep it from heating up too much and cut the scoop part off flat with it still on the boat. To get the edges totally flat, I used a random orbit or any palm sander would work and just polished it down flat with 80 grit sandpaper.

    Do it up, it is better than filling the screw holes that you remove and replacing it with a mushroom anyway.

    Comment

    • Chexi
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Feb 2025
      • 2119

      • Austin

      • 2000 SAN

      #3
      No kidding. I haven't looked at this one, but I know that the factory one was glassed in on my 99 Air (or appeared to be). I was going to take it out too, and ultimately just capped it and put a new mushroom in elsewhere.

      I figure I'll either cut off the scoop like you did Don or maybe start with a few holes in the back and see what happens. I will say this, after pulling my hard tanks on Saturday (way easier on the SAN hull than the Air), and shutting the ball valve with that extension rod, I could not get the ball valve completely closed, an it was leaking water when I tested it out on the lake. My bilge easily kept up... but disturbing nonetheless.
      Now
      2000 SAN

      Previously
      1999 Air Nautique
      1996 Tige Pre-2000
      1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard

      Comment

      • cdrymalla
        • Aug 2009
        • 88

        • Austin, TX

        • 2003 Nautique Super Sport 2001 Air Nautique

        #4
        Originally posted by TRDon View Post
        I did not use an impeller pump, but a aerator pump that is more problematic with the self filling. What I did was cut the scoop off of the through hull. I took a reinforced dremel cut off wheel, used a dust mask and glasses for protection, a sqwirt or watter every so often to keep it from heating up too much and cut the scoop part off flat with it still on the boat. To get the edges totally flat, I used a random orbit or any palm sander would work and just polished it down flat with 80 grit sandpaper.

        Do it up, it is better than filling the screw holes that you remove and replacing it with a mushroom anyway.
        TR Don or Chexi, Do either of you know how well the aerator pumps prime without the scoop. I guess my real question is, I have an 00 air, with the factory tanks (which have worked ok so far) a rear sac and a ski locker sac plumed into the scoop (each running off seperate pairs of fill/drain aerator pumps), and I was thinking of drilling holes in the scoop or cutting it off as noted above to reduce the "fill while running issue" with my sacs. I was curious if this would kill the pumps ability to prime. My thought is by drilling holes in about 50% of the scoop it may reduce the pressure enough to reduce the filling problem but still allow them to prime while helping with draining.

        Chexi, if you happen to drill the holes prior to installing the impeller pumps and make a run with the aerators, please report back on how they prime and if you had any "filling" issues. As I am not really wanting to switch over to impellers, I would hate to cut the scoop only to find I can't get the aerators to prime.

        Comment

        • Chexi
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Feb 2025
          • 2119

          • Austin

          • 2000 SAN

          #5
          Sorry, but I already pulled my tanks and pumps.

          That said, you should be able to test this out. Just start your pumps when the boat is stationary. If they consistently work, you are golden. I suspect they will, as the pumps are mounted as low as one can get.
          Now
          2000 SAN

          Previously
          1999 Air Nautique
          1996 Tige Pre-2000
          1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard

          Comment

          • cdrymalla
            • Aug 2009
            • 88

            • Austin, TX

            • 2003 Nautique Super Sport 2001 Air Nautique

            #6
            Originally posted by Chexi View Post
            Sorry, but I already pulled my tanks and pumps.

            That said, you should be able to test this out. Just start your pumps when the boat is stationary. If they consistently work, you are golden. I suspect they will, as the pumps are mounted as low as one can get.
            That is true. I will pay more attention to their priming while not moving. I typically have the boat moving out of habit.

            Comment

            • intrlaz
              • Aug 2009
              • 230



              #7
              I have three jabscos running off separate factory scoops using green impellers. I have not had a huge problem with water pushing by, but some will empty into the hatches if the hose ends are low. It's not alot by any means.

              I also had the same ball valve issue. When they get old the plastic tends to deform and wont allow full closure. I replaced all of mine for safety. Make sure to use bronze if you do the same.

              Let me know how if the holes trick works

              Comment

              • Chexi
                1,000 Post Club Member
                • Feb 2025
                • 2119

                • Austin

                • 2000 SAN

                #8
                Thank goodness. I'm so tired of "loosing" my money on foreign exchange trades.
                Now
                2000 SAN

                Previously
                1999 Air Nautique
                1996 Tige Pre-2000
                1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard

                Comment

                • seth
                  Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                  • Jun 2008
                  • 549

                  • Santa Barbara, CA

                  • 01 SAN-sold

                  #9
                  Yes, I did the same (used existing mushroom) and water would push past the ballast puppy. I installed shut off valves before my belly and nose sac to get around it. Its nice to have separate controls for them. Also once the nose sack drained the belly sack would lose suction and stop draining, so closing off the nose sack when drained got around that.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X