Ballast & Run Dry Control Module

[dreed]

Hello all,

I have a 2006 SANTE 220. My ballast pumps are acting up. All pumps seem to work ok to fill. Only the belly will empty, and only for 20 seconds or so at that. THe port & Starboard will not empty at all. I have searched adn searched and only things I can come up with are impellers, run dry control module and possibly wiring. I know the original owner never changed the ballast pumps impellers so I am going to start there. After that, I think the run dry module should be adjusted. Can anyone tell me exactly where it is located? Do I just turn the pumps to empty and then turn the setting until the pump comes on? How do I know what setting to put it at to ensure that all water is pumped out?

Thanks!!!!

[dreed]

Bump

[dryan]

Hi Dreed,

I've just completed (I hope) a miserable few months of dealing with a similar set of problems with my '06 SANTE 220. It is surprising how little knowledgeable help you can get, even from Correct Craft techs! Understand that nothing on this boat is as simple as an isolated circuit with an on/off or forward/reverse switch. My problem started with the port pump that would fill but not empty. Then it stopped altogether. A new and updated pump with a different serial # and $250 fixed the problem. 2 weeks later, the other 2 pumps stopped filling, but would run as if emptying and would only stop when switched off (no overload protection cutoff). $500 more and 2 more new pumps, nothing changed! Same problem! But, I found using the quick-connect plugs about 18" from the pumps, I could use the switch and wires for the port pump to plug into and actuate all 3 pumps! So...the pumps and plumbing along with the port electrical circuit work perfectly. The gremlin was in the wiring I thought. My tech suggested I check the relays located in the breaker box under the port storage locker. That was a major pain and non-productive. Now at the end of my rope, I took it to my dealer (Oct 2010). They didnt get to it before they closed for Dec and Jan, and when they reopened, they confessed, they had lost their dealership and towed it 150mi to another dealer who could do the warranty work and replace the computer which they had determined was the problem. That dealer took 30 days to get started and started all over. They replaced the pumps AGAIN and were having the same problems. Then I got a call that all was well and working properly. I made arrangements to transport the boat. When I got it back in early May, the pumps still didn't work, and then my Perfect Pass wasn't working either! I limped along through the July 4 weekend and took the boat back. After 3 more weeks of supposedly trying to communicate with CC, they determined what I had told them months before, The computer was bad. I think that is a $700-$800 part. They replaced it and now swear all is working well--pumps and Perfect Pass. I got the boat back 2 wks ago but haven't had a chance to get it wet. Kinda lost my desire. FYI, as I understand it there 2 modules that may be affecting you, the ballast module or the "Faria Gateway". If you are lying on your back with your butt in the driver's seat and your head under the dash with the access panel removed, the ballast module (and this is the one I'm not sure what is or what it does) will be sort of above your left breast or shoulder. It is round and looks sort of like the underside of a white cupholder. The Gateway will have multiple multi-wire connectors plugged into it. It looks like a cigar box and will be overhead and a little above eye level if memory serves. This thing is the brain. All sensors, controls, gauges, inputs outputs, lights, and panel switches run through it and it controls your destiny. When it acts up, you are at its mercy. My money is on the gateway, but I'd talk to a good tech or someone at CC first. I hope this helps.

[dreed]

Dryan,

That scares me!!! I am sorry to hear about your horrible luck and I am hoping I don't have the same.

I have made some progress.....

I replaced all three ballast pump impellers with the green ones. That was much easier than I had planned and because these are bi-directional(fill and drain) pumps I didn't have to worry about which way to have the impeller "ends" bending.

So, after that, belly ballast drains. Turn on Starboard to drain and nothing.... play with the run dry control module and BAM it starts to drain and completely empties. However, Port side, no so much. If I push and hold the button to drain it does nothing. If I push the button once(like to fill) it starts up and starts sputtering a little water out of the side..... acting like it is full and overflowing. The tank is indeed full because I looked under the floor boards and could tell. So I guess the net net is that my drain on my port side is no bueno. Anyone have any ideas on what might be causing the port side pump to not come on when I hold down the button to drain?

Thank you for any help!!!!

[nms1991]

Probably your run-dry module is bad, but you can bypass the system by going into the box where the relays are and hooking the ground wire to a solid ground not to the run-dry system but this eliminates the protection for the pumps.

[TechBeer]

This is a fairly old thread but there are LOTS of posts with ballast issues from older boats. I have a 2006 SV211 and both my starboard and port ballast tanks will fill but not empty. I have been running through the wiring and researching how this system works, and plan to do a full write up before the end of the year. In the mean time if you have Jabsco Ballast Puppy reversible pumps there is an easy way to temporarily get them to drain in a pinch. These pumps work by applying 12V in either forward or reverse polarity. There is a Ballast Controller (aka Run Dry Module) under that dash that reads the level sensor in your tank and WILL NOT allow the pumps to operate in the empty if it thinks your tank is already empty. This system could fail in a variety of ways including the sender unit is bad, or the Ballast Controller is bad, of if any or your wiring is messed up.

I created a simple jumper that can be placed between the connector on the ballast pumps. On my boat the starboard and port ballast tanks are easily accessible, not so much for the belly. Attached is a picture of the jumpers and the associated connector parts. They can be purchased at Digikey for next to nothing. I used 14 AWG stranded wire. All you do is unplug the connector, put the jumpers in reversing the polarity, and push the dash switch to the "fill" position. Because the polarity to the pump is reversed the pump will operate in the empty mode, ignoring the "run dry" function. WARNING, if you short the 2 wires together with the pump operating the breaker will pop and you will have to reset it. This happened to me while I was messing around. Also, make sure you shut off the pumps when the tank is empty. You can hear an obvious change in the pitch of the pump when it's empty. It seems that older boats, like mine, have a standard 2 pin connector that I can not find. This uses a 2.1mm diameter contact that is roughly equivalent to the contact in the attached picture. Newer boats apparently have moved to a Deutsch DT type connector which uses a 1.5mm diameter contact so they are NOT interchangeable.

Good luck!!