A couple winterization questions... 2000 SAN, 5.7 Impeller, ballast, shower, heater?

[Quinner]

If you drain all the water anti freeze is not necessary however most use it as a safeguard against any residual water and also to prevent corrosion.

Not much will drain with the impeller removal, I would not worry about it.

I only remove 1 heater hose, blow in that line with the plug on the U line out and the water will come out.

I have always used the shower pump to drain that side, as mentioned previously, just be sure both hot/cold valves are open.

Sac,

If you are asking about the trans cooler, no I normally don't drain that as it is really tough to get at, my assumption is it is so early in the flow that any residual water will push out as the anti-freeze flows through (using the run and suck up anti freeze method). If you are referring to anything V-Drive related, no idea, all my boats have been direct drives.

[SoldTheBayliner]

Quinner, what do you mean "with the plug on the U line out"? I'm with you in concept, but I don't get that statement... with only one heater line disconnected, I'm just blowing water back into the engine block through the other line (wherever that is...) right?

Thanks you guys...this is huge help. Certainly don't want to screw it up the first time.

[AirTool]

Quinner, what do you mean "with the plug on the U line out"? I'm with you in concept, but I don't get that statement... with only one heater line disconnected, I'm just blowing water back into the engine block through the other line (wherever that is...) right?

Thanks you guys...this is huge help. Certainly don't want to screw it up the first time.

I think he means the u-tube "similar" to the one shown in this pic. There is a plug at the bottom.

[Quinner]

Thanks Ya Tool, LOL!!

Pic is perfect, the brass plug at the bottom is what I was referring to. You can also see both heater lines in that pic, I only remove the upper one. Note, you want to remove ALL plugs, drain everything including the heater core, then re-install ALL plugs.

Did mention earlier draining/changing the fuel filter. Tools pic shows the Fuel Control Cell (black canister), there is a brass plug on the underside to drain any water, and replace the filter & o-ring(s) on the inside unless you are certain it is new or not beyond it's service life.

If you need an assist with removing the impeller, Tool did a very nice Tutorial in a thread on that!!

PS, when re-installing, use teflon tape or paste on the various brass plugs but NOT the knock sensor.

[ClemsonDave]

Coming in late, but I like to put in quick disconnects in-line with the heater hoses. Lowe's sells brass ones for garden hoses that works well.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_228724-306-0...ick&facetInfo=

[SoldTheBayliner]

OOh nice, do those let water flow when they are disconnected, or do they spring shut like an air hose attachment?

And thanks for the pic...I get it. Except my heater line appears to draw water from the drain plug on the starboard side, where the shower pick-up line also is... I haven't looked for the other line at the water pump area... assuming maybe hopefully that's where it is? But I get what you're saying...the water would then just flow out of the open plug when you forced it through the line.

Basically (calibrate me here) if I open all the plugs, run the shower dry, and disconnect one heater line and blow through it until water stops coming out somewhere, and make sure to remove the plug at the V drive unit...I've got all the water out? (not including the ballast system). It's not rocket surgery, I know...but this thing is a spaghetti bowl of hoses compared to my old boat.

thanks...