Fuel filter

[Quinner]

I agree as I mentioned above. Thinking about it more...I don't think our pumps cycle until two seconds after the start button is held down. That is what I've heard and it matches my experience starting my 206. It will never start before two seconds of cranking. When I do my FCC filter this winter, I'll check it with a volt meter.

Interesting, have changed them out on both Ford and a Chevy, the most recent (Excal) it would not start after doing what I would consider "several" on/offs with the ignition, then did several more while doing some cranking along the way. Ignition on would only cycle pump(s) for a second or two, then nothing, when cranking really could not hear if the pump(s) cycled or not.

Was not counting however the "several" as noted on the FCC was quite a few, to the point it was concerning, it eventually started and ran fine.

[AirTool]

I cut the top of a PowerAid plastic bottle (larger size 20oz?) off and hold it below the pump to drain.

somebody on this site suggested and I adopted using a funnel and a hose (aka beer bong) and piping the hose out the bilge drain. Hold the funnel under the tank and voila. Not sure how well this works on a vee drive.

[ski4evr]

the beer bong works well, just need pretty long piece of hose. The funnel cannot be 2 beer sized though, I believe it had to be a single size to fit.

[AB]

That is a great idea. I didn't have hose laying around, but plenty of Poweraid and Gatorade bottles.
I have my new filter ready to go for tomorrow. I tried my cell tonight and it is on pretty good (and I did it last year).
I think I will slip some inner tube rubber inside the oil filter strapping, because it was slipping. Hope I don't have to take the cell off.

[Jono]

here's my easiest way to drain the FCC with no mess. I use a baking pan about 4 inches deep under it. Now you have easy access to the drain with plenty of room to get wrenches on it. Now use your suck up pump to empty the pan.

[AirTool]

here's my easiest way to drain the FCC with no mess. I use a baking pan about 4 inches deep under it. Now you have easy access to the drain with plenty of room to get wrenches on it. Now use your suck up pump to empty the pan.

The funnel and hose is much easier and you can easily use the container you catch it in outside the boat to see if any water separates. I use a mason jar but using glass is risky.

[hyparks]

Does anyone know if both fuel pumps come on at the same time when the ignition is turned on?
Reason I ask is because when I changed my filter I took the whole assembly off and had to get it in a vice.
Now its back on the boat and I can only hear the low pressure pump come on with the ignition.
Not tried starting it yet to check it will fire up as its still winterized.
Does the high pressure pump only come on when trying to start the engine or does it look like my pumps no good?

Thanks

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[boo]

Use a toothpick to remove the old "O" ring up inside the head. I use a 1/2" drive strap wrench with the rubber kitchen jar remover between the strap and the canister.

[AirTool]

Does anyone know if both fuel pumps come on at the same time when the ignition is turned on?

I've never tested to confirm, but (UNLIKE THE AUTOS) I believe the HP pump doesn't run until you hold down the "start" button. That's what I've heard and my engine never starts sooner than 2 seconds after pressing "start". So I'm pretty sure that is correct.

[hyparks]

Thanks Airtool. I was hoping that was the case.
I'm sure it runs for about 10 seconds total when starting the engine then only kicks in when pressure drops below a certain pressure.



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[AirTool]

Thanks Airtool. I was hoping that was the case.
I'm sure it runs for about 10 seconds total when starting the engine then only kicks in when pressure drops below a certain pressure.

For sure there is no pressure logic. It is only start and timer logic.