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I was all set this weekend to finish my heater install by "t" ing into the 1 inch hose after the impeller pump and tapping into the intake manifold at the water temp sensor. After skiing behind my buddies 01 Air I checked out where they tapped into for his install. They had used the 1/4 plug on the block and the 1/4 plug on the elbow near the engine water pump. When I did the install on my 90 Sport I used the t method I described first. I liked the 01 install (cleaner) as I do not need to t the water temp sensor nor cut the 1 inch line. Any pros or cons from anyone's experience?
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My GT-40 engine uses the 1/4 plug, on the raw water pump side of the engine block, and a "T" into the top of the intake manifold, and a relocated temperature sender that was originally in the manifold. Another GT-40 I work on, uses the same plug on the block, and the plug in the elbow for the circulating water pump.
I do not know what method works better, the second boat also has the larger series 300 heater.
It would take a little time, hook up one way, drive the boat for a while, and check the hot air output, make a change, and see if it is better, to find out the best way, I really do not know.
This Friday, Active Water Sports, in Oregon city is having an event, sure it is to sell more boats and accessories, but they have had representatives form PCM there in the past. If they do. I will try to remember to ask. -
Thanks for your input. If you remember to ask that would be great. I am also running the 300 in my boat. The Air had the 200 in it. I did the "idle modification" on my 90 where you run a smaller inner diameter off your t fitting. I am wondering if tapping into the 1/4 at the elbow would have the same affect?sigpicComment
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The magic fitting for the GT40 on the manifold is a 1/2" NPT 45 degree elbow, male X female. I had to order it from McMaster Carr part number 4429K653. You can then put the T into that. I hooked up the other line into the starboard side of the engine, there is a plug you can take out and replace with a hose fitting.Comment
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Thanks for the info. I am probably going with the plug on the block, and the plug in the elbow for the circulating water pump. If I find there is not enough circulation then I will use your idea. Is the 45 used to give you clearance to use the T?Originally posted by wake_fun View Post
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4429k653/=exlgyfsigpicComment
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When this site got moved a while ago it lost all the pictures I had in my Heater Install Thread. I have the pictures on a different computer.Comment
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Finished the plumbing this weekend.
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Heater Plumbing Options
Now here is the real deal. I have a 1999 Ski Nautique 196. I installed a 300 series heater. Use a y fitting before the raw water pump for the return line. It will draw the water through the heater core, even at idle. For the supply, I T'ed off of the thermostat sending unit. This is the hottest water in the engine. I tried all of the other options mentioned in this thread, but none of them work like this set up. Discount Inboard Marine sells the fitting.
Dan, the skier ManComment
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That was the same way I had my heater hooked up on my 90 Sport. I made my own t out of brass. The smaller the diameter of the t before the 5/8 hose line the more vacuum it creates at idle. I went with my current setup for ease of install. If it doesn't perform well I will change.
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Dan1166 where you t'd off the thermostat sender is that where the temperature sensor is? Sits slightly above the thermostat? Don't suppose you got a photo have you?
I was going to t into the pipe before the raw water pump like yours. Is this not putting hot water back into the engine where its meant to be getting cool water?
I was originally going to fit one side of the heater to the side of the block and the other pipe to the top of the thermostat where the temp sensor is.
Thanks
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2001 SAN 210, GT40
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1994 Mastercraft Pro Star 190
1989 14ft Fletcher Arrowflyte GtoComment
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Water is cooled of by the time it gets to the engine and diluted with fresh lake water. Your idea of tapping into the block and temp sensor wouldn't work as there is no vacuum to circulate the water.Originally posted by hyparks View Post
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I played around with my cheap infrared thermometer the other day and the heater hose after the T was running 105 with the boat showing 155. I run a 160 thermostat and had the boat running for about 20 min, i never got it out of the slip to see if how much it rises when running. Considering that your using the heater when the water is cold I wouldn't worry much, the temp on the return line leaving my heater core was 82. I didn't look at what it was on the return line, but i suspect it would be in the 70's by the time it got there. We have no cooling issues in the summer when the water is around 90 so I don't worry about the warm water not cooling. I'm loosing 20 degrees on the way to the heater core so I'm insulating my feed line to get more heat out of the heater.Comment
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The idle modification using the T works great. It will be interesting to see how well tapping the elbow works.
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I do not know if a T will work. I used a Y fitting, which are available at Discount Inboard Marine. The Y fittiny actually draws the water from the heater core, even at idle.
Dan, the STS ManComment
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