it is best to use a non detergent 30 weight oil too. You should be able to get that at most stores that have a good selection of oil.
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I believe it is 1/4" NPT.
At least, I hope it is because I went out and bought a 90 deg brass fitting with a compression fitting for copper tubing so I can snake a drain tube up to the top like Core-Rider has done.
After looking at the drawings that EchoLodge thoughtfully provided it occurred to me that you could probably disconnect one of the oil cooling lines at the water jacket and vacuum extract all of the oil there. I'll have to see if there is room to get to the fittings. And decide which one to use (probably the one that comes from the screen if possible).
I cleaned my screen last year. I really don't want to do that again for a while and it really doesn't seem to need it.
I wish I had a picture of the hose routing to see if the hose from the strainer goes straight to the pump or up to the cooler.Last edited by crobi2; 01-06-2012, 06:12 PM.Rob
2000 SAN
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http://www.pearson424.org/manuals/VD...Page17_jpg.htm
Ccfan thread said its easy to just put a cut milk carton under and drain the oil. I used a pump last time and want to do the hose to the drain plug. Keep me posted as I just changed my oil recently and have some time. Txfoil is suppose to make a parts list soon.sigpic
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Cut milk carton! Wow! I was barely able to get some plastic bags under mine and still be able to get the strainer off.
Thanks for the exploded diagram! I wish it showed the exterior hose routing from the strainer, cooler and pump ports. I just bet I won't be able to see enough on mine without pulling up the floor. If I have to pull up the floor, it would probably be best to just replace the drain plug with an extraction line.
I assume though that the oil flow should go from strainer > pump > cooler > gears > sump which would probably eliminate using the strainer hose as a vacuum extraction line because you would have to pull through the pump
P.S. I got a vacuum extractor for Christmas. I love it. So far I have done the transmission fluid in the boat, my truck, a friend's truck, and a little car that was never gonna earn a transmission drain and filter replacement without it.Rob
2000 SAN
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my drain plug was on the back side (stern) while the strainer is on the front of the drive. The last time I drained with the plug and the oil ran all over the bilge (not too far thanks to some pig absorbers from work) was when I changed the plug to the drain hose like the oil pan. the floor had to be removed for this work. Now, I figure I will clean the strainer every couple of years, and change the vdrive oil when I change the engine oil. Now, both oil lines are held in place near the bilge drain for easy access to both of them.2005 SV-211
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Sorry, got to doing different projects on other things. Grabbed a handful of parts today, but didn't have any hose that I was thrilled with. Right now the plan is to replace the drain plug with a nipple and a 90 and stub that up to the top of the v drive (13 inches) where I can put a valve on it. That way it is above the oil level so the oil can't leak out of the valve/cap That would put it under the inspection hatch and a may call it good there if I can get my extractor to work.
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I just used my smallest tube on my vacuum extractor to get a quart of oil out of the walters this weekend. I used the dipstick hole and I could feel the extractor tube pushing on the mesh screen at the bottom of the v-drive. Works good enough for me. I'll use my copper tubing for some plumbing project around the house. Probably clean the screen every few years.Rob
2000 SAN
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