210 Rear Bilge Pump

[hyparks]

Anyone ever changed the rear bilge pump on an 01 210? Mines not working and trying to get to it seems a bit of a mission without removing tanks etc!
The plastic tray underneath the engine seems to be in the way also.


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[crobi2]

Yeah, you gotta take out some of the storage divider on either side to you can get to it. Taking out a tank definitely makes it easier - so easy that you will instantly want to replace the tank with a sac of your choice.

Check all of your circuit breakers and also check your 3 position main switch on bilge only to see if it will work then.

If it's dead, the replacement will have three wires instead of 2. You wire in the auto wire and leave the manual wire loose. Don't wire it in backwards, the brown and black wires look pretty much the same in dim light (dealer had wired mine in backward!).

[hyparks]

Yeah already got the dividers out.
Unfortunately sacs are not an option for me as my boat runs on lpg. Petrol in UK is far too expensive. So my lpg tanks sit ontop of my standard ballast tanks. But ballast plus lpg tanks equals nice big wake.

Will pull the tanks to try and get to bilge pump.
It has gone because I have checked all breakers and switches etc. And the middle bilge works fine.

Weekend job I think.

Thanks

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[crobi2]

The pump on ours is the round Rule 500 gph automatic and runs from $50-75 depending on where you get it. Make sure you get the automatic (Rule 25S 500gph automatic) and not the manual only one. Do you have a place to get this pump easily in the UK?

[hyparks]

Yeah they are easy to pick up over here.

Thanks for your advise.

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[akinard911]

Need help I have an 03 SANTE...The rear bildge pump (Rule 25s Fully Auto) broke. It only has two wires coming from it (brown and black). I ordered a new pump and the new models have (brown, brown w/ white stripe and black) wires. How do I wire this pump to the old harness which only has a brown and black wire?

[hyparks]

Is your new one fully automatic? 3 wire ones usually are. 1 wire ground and the other 2 are +12v.
1 12v will make the pump run constantly and the other will make it run intermittently sensing water and pumping it out.
No easy way if you have got two different connectors so just chop connectors off and wire in direct or buy two connectors that do connect .

[akinard911]

Is your new one fully automatic? 3 wire ones usually are. 1 wire ground and the other 2 are +12v.
1 12v will make the pump run constantly and the other will make it run intermittently sensing water and pumping it out.
No easy way if you have got two different connectors so just chop connectors off and wire in direct or buy two connectors that do connect

Thanks for the quick response its not the connectors that is the issue. I have the bildge button on the dash that will turn the pump on. My question is do I just need to connect the auto wire and not use the manual wire? or should I use both of them?

[hyparks]

Up to you really how you want it to work.

[crobi2]

I can't remember which of the brown wires (with or without stripe) is the automatic one. I would guess the one with the stripe. The literature with the pump should tell you. You only connect the one you want and leave the other one loose (put some glue on the bare end maybe).

I soldered the connections on mine and put heat shrink over them and then some glue to keep the water out (many pump failures from water wicking up the power wires). Also, for this same reason, do not cut the wires short - loop up any excess you have and secure with a zip lock.

If you used crimp type connectors, see if you can get the marine type that help keep the water out of your connection.

[akinard911]

Ok got it figured out....The new pumps have three wires...When u push the bilge pump button on dash and want the pump to kick on and run use the brown w/ white wire. If you want the pump to check every 2 1/2 min use the automatic wire the all brown one....Kinda confusing but you have options on how you want the pump to work....have fun

[hindsbeans@hotmail.com]

Just wanted to say "thanks so much" hyparks, you've saved me a whole world of puzzling. I have the exact same issue as you - the rear bilge pump on my 210 looks to have stopped working AND I've got LPG tanks above my ballast tanks (I'm in Ireland). Took me ages to get the multimeter down deep enough to check if there was current getting to the switch. My new Rule 500gph automatic pump arrived in the post today and I was scratching my head looking at the 3 wires coming out of the new one and comparing it to the 2 wires on the old bilge pump in the photo on my phone. Sounds like I just need to seal the 'manual' wire (brown wire with white stripe) and not connect it to anything.

You've gotta love planetnautique for this kind of thing, such a great resource, I wasted about an hour looking up youtube tutorials before coming to look on here - rookie mistake!

[hindsbeans@hotmail.com]

Just wanted to say "thanks so much" hyparks, you've saved me a whole world of puzzling. I have the exact same issue as you - the rear bilge pump on my 210 looks to have stopped working AND I've got LPG tanks above my ballast tanks (I'm in Ireland). Took me ages to get the multimeter down deep enough to check if there was current getting to the switch. My new Rule 500gph automatic pump arrived in the post today and I was scratching my head looking at the 3 wires coming out of the new one and comparing it to the 2 wires on the old bilge pump in the photo on my phone. Sounds like I just need to seal the 'manual' wire (brown wire with white stripe) and not connect it to anything.

You've gotta love planetnautique for this kind of thing, such a great resource, I wasted about an hour looking up youtube tutorials before coming to look on here - rookie mistake!

Incase it helps anybody: this is exactly what I did and it worked perfectly.