Actually air comes in very handy as the 4'th requirement. AND it needs to be properly mixed with the proper amount of fuel. Given that it flat out died, air and compression are not the issue. Remove one of the plugs. Plug the plug wire into the removed plug. Ground the body of the plug to the engine. (you can use a wire with a alligator clamp around the plug with the other end attached to the engine or other good ground source. Have somebody crank the engine over. Do you see a nice blue spark? If yellow, or missing you have ignition issues.
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Originally posted by NautiDave07 View PostI took mine to a dealer sorry I can't tell u how to check it. It is a plug in sensor so should be easy to change if u can get it.
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Originally posted by gtxragtop View PostActually air comes in very handy as the 4'th requirement. AND it needs to be properly mixed with the proper amount of fuel. Given that it flat out died, air and compression are not the issue. Remove one of the plugs. Plug the plug wire into the removed plug. Ground the body of the plug to the engine. (you can use a wire with a alligator clamp around the plug with the other end attached to the engine or other good ground source. Have somebody crank the engine over. Do you see a nice blue spark? If yellow, or missing you have ignition issues.
i was directed to check tachometer if there was signal while cranking and it was working fine.
I was to check CPS only if the tach wasn't working so i assume the CPS is working by sending signal to the tach?
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Check engine grounds: located on cylinder heads and block above knock sensor, follow them and tighten wires
Check fuel pressure: should be about 50-60 psig. Hook up a mechanical gauge to the schrader valve located on the fuel rail. What does it read when pump primes, how about when cranking?
Check injectors for signal: go to auto parts store and get a "noid light" this will plug into your injector hardness and tell you if the injector is getting the signal from the computer to fire. You may be able to check for voltage at the harness as well if noid light is not obtainable.
I believe you mentioned above that you did verify there was spark. Many sensors can cause the engine not to fire, cam position, crank position, even coolant temp sensor, map sensor as well.
Check the above and report back.
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1,000 Post Club Member
- Jun 2008
- 2080
- Flowery Branch GA Lake Lanier
- 2008 210 SANTE 67 Correct Craft Mustang
Good Deal
I'm glad you found it. Are there any GM mechanics there? This is basically a GM engine with some modifications it is close enough that any good GM tech should be able to repair it if you have problems or need maintenance .
Another PCM success story this is why I buy them .
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Just had the SAME issueS, went through all the same trouble shooting. Did NOT pay attention that we went from a fuel pressure issue to a ignition issue after switching over the relays....Just noticed the boat wasnt starting still. Which makes now i get, both relays are needed. THREE days later we changed them over one last time and BOOM. It fired off with power going to the coil, just no fuel pressure.This was understood cause it sputtered a little from prior fuel in the line. SO then sprayed starter fluid in air intake and it fired , which was a GREAT sign! Went on a search and destroy mission around town looking for the relays. FOUND them installed them and shes all good. RIGHT IN TIME FOR THE FOURTH OF JULY WEEKEND!!
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