Dewinterizing: do I need to change my oil if I did it in the winter?

[jackkloepfer]

I changed my oil on my GT40 when I winterized in December. should I have to do it again before getting her running for the season?

also, I tried to search for a "dewinterizing checklist" that covers everything that should be checked on before the season, and I can't find anything.


If you guys and gals can point me in the right direction, it would be a huge help.

Thank you!

[TxJole]

I do, for the simple fact hot cold hot cold here in Texas condensates and the price of oil is not worth the price of an engine.

[jackkloepfer]

I do, for the simple fact hot cold hot cold here in Texas condensates and the price of oil is not worth the price of an engine.

tough to argue that point, kind sir. thank you!

[TxJole]

I normally will not change at time of winteriztion if not needed, but will drop some seafoam in for the rust inhiditor. Then run it a few runs.

[SBRS]

Below is a copy of our check list. The bottom half is for de-winterizing.


WINTERIZATION
Pour in fuel stabilizer
Warm engine to normal temperature
Change crankcase oil and filter
Restart engine, idle for 5 minutes
Fog engine with fogging oil
Empty and clean raw water filter
Remove all drain plugs and hoses, drain water
Remove raw water pump impeller, inspect impeller's condition
Drain V-drive when applicable
Drain heater / shower when applicable
Drain ballast tanks when applicable
Disconnect the battery or batteries
Drain bilge and make sure all compartments in bilge area are dry
Spray engine down with corrision guard
Bag and Tag engine plugs and impeller with warning label on steering wheel
Detail boat and cover, if one came with boat

DATE WINTERIZATION COMPLETED:

RECOMMISSION
Assemble water pump and reinstall on engine
Charge battery or batteries
Install all engine drain plugs (V-drive also when present) and hoses
Install ballast drain plugs when applicable
Check belt tension
Check engine and transmission fluid levels (v-drive also when present)
Check trailer - lights, grease bearing buddies, tighten lugs, & inspect bunks
Run and check for leaks
Detail boat and cover, if one came with boat

DATE RECOMMISSION COMPLETED:

Comments:
Customer Name:
Hull#:

[scottb7]

Wouldn't condensation evaporate off when engine warms up? I never heard of doing before and after.

[shag]

It's easy and cheap.... Change the oil.

[east tx skier]

I change at winterization, but not again in the spring. Boat is 14 years old and runs like a top.
www.tylerskiclub.com/winterization.html

www.tylerskiclub.com/dewinterization/html

[TxJole]

Wouldn't condensation evaporate off when engine warms up? I never heard of doing before and after.

Nope mixes with oil. If that was the case water from a blown head gasket would burn off too and not turn oil to chocolate milk. Oil is cheap, why risk water in it? Like I said I normaly do not change before I put it up, but I like to change when it awakes.

[AirTool]

My only concern is if the oil temp went to below freezing several or extended times.

At the end of the summer, if my oil has less than 10 or 15 hours on it and it is still clear as honey, I leave it and change in the spring after one run to heat it up. If more than 15 or starting to darken, I change it before and don't change it again in the spring. I changed on both ends the first couple of years and now contend that two changes is ridiculous...in my case anyway.

[east tx skier]

Do you not worry about the contaminants in the oil being in there for the duration of the layup? Seems to be the driving force behind changing the oil before layup.

[AirTool]

Do you not worry about the contaminants in the oil being in there for the duration of the layup? Seems to be the driving force behind changing the oil before layup.

With only 10 hours of service? ...10 hours at 1/4 throttle? If the oil was changed properly before (draining over night) I can't even see it on the dipstick.

And remember, there is no EGR or other crap on these engines and our oil runs unusually cold if you have raw water cooling.

[Quinner]

IMO it's more important to change in the fall then the spring. I am of the same thought process as the tool & tex, if it's clean and looks good in the spring then run it. Additionally if you do more then 50 hrs on a typical season or if you have say 30hrs or so by the mid point, change the oil then.

[AirTool]

IMO it's more important to change in the fall then the spring. I am of the same thought process as the tool & tex, if it's clean and looks good in the spring then run it. Additionally if you do more then 50 hrs on a typical season or if you have say 30hrs or so by the mid point, change the oil then.

Your first sentence is true and one of the main points I think we all agree on.

Your last sentence validates the situation I try to avoid and my message above. Close to the end of the season, I'm coming up on an oil change, and I'm wondering when is the season actually going to end? Do I push what's in there past my own personal limit? (no way) Do I change it? Of course. Then let's say we are blessed with another weekend and maybe a day off from work on a warm sunny fall day...and I put a few hours on it. So what?

I want to avoid the situation where I get surprised by an early end (weather, travel, whatever) and then I can't change the brown oil hot. That would absolutely suck if I had to leave it in all winter. So I guarantee myself that I'm not stuck in that situation. This year I did the usual then quit my job in September. I put enough hours in in September and October to need another oil change. Then I made a trip or two and got shut down.

Another bad thing to do is put fresh oil in and not run at least once to heat it up and spread it all around and fill the remote filter tubing. Thus also flushing or at least diluting the residual oil that didn't drain out of all the nooks and crannies (which can be a lot if you don't use the right procedure to change your oil.) I don't mean 10 minutes in the drive way either, I mean work the engine hard.

In the spring, I really don't like to do any work on the boat BEFORE I use it. My lake is small private and worse case is I have to walk it back to the ramp. When I get in it. I want to be sure tha any problems I have on day one were not because of something I did in summerizing. I'll run it a trip or two then do my usual biz like impeller, oil, fuel filter, and tranny if it wasn't done near the end of the year. (this year a belt).

Speaking of tranny - everytime I suck that stuff out it looks exactly like the new stuff I pour in...but still going to do it that way.

PS - below the equator this week in lovely Lima, Peru.

[east tx skier]

With only 10 hours of service? ...10 hours at 1/4 throttle? If the oil was changed properly before (draining over night) I can't even see it on the dipstick.

And remember, there is no EGR or other crap on these engines and our oil runs unusually cold if you have raw water cooling.

Sorry, that question was intended for TXJole. We must have responded at the same time.

Just got back from our first lake trip of the year. Boat ran like a top.