How to remove prop

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  • Chexi
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Apr 2025
    • 2119

    • Austin

    • 2000 SAN

    #1

    How to remove prop

    Okay, I tried searching but kept getting errors, so I will post my question.

    Yesterday I tried to pull my prop using an acme prop puller. No dice. The thing would not budge. I remember reading that you can heat up (either the shaft or prop) with a torch, and the metal expansion will break it loose. However, I do not recall which I am supposed to heat up (the shaft or the propeller). Anyone know?

    Also, I can't easily drop the boat in the water and run the prop in reverse for a few seconds (which I understand is another way). My boat is in dry storage presently.

    Thank you in advance.
    Now
    2000 SAN

    Previously
    1999 Air Nautique
    1996 Tige Pre-2000
    1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard
  • crobi2
    • Dec 2010
    • 337

    • Texas

    • 2000 Super Air Nautique

    #2
    I popped mine off with a C-style puller back in January. To do it, I loosened the nut a couple of turns (but leave it on to catch the prop when it comes off). Then I cranked the puller to within an inch of its life. Finally, I used a propane torch to heat the hub of the propeller (and kept my hands clear). After a time, BANG!, the prop pops off of the taper.

    With your boat, I think it should be the same as mine. Good luck!
    Rob
    2000 SAN

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    • Rick
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Mar 2004
      • 1250

      • San Diego, Ca

      • 1962 Keaton Utility. 2000 Ski 1965 Barracuda

      #3
      Here is the link to prop pulling for dummies. http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/sh...ht=prop+puller Have fun
      Nautiqueless in San Diego

      Comment

      • Bri93SN
        • Jan 2012
        • 29

        • Boston

        • 1993 Ski Nautique Standard

        #4
        I've read where guys have rotated the C clamp (well rotated the prop really) to put it between different blades. To kind of work it off a little.Guys on Correctcraftfan have built their own heavy duty ones too. Like this:Click image for larger version

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        • east tx skier
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Apr 2005
          • 1561

          • Tyler, TX


          #5
          I had a little trouble getting mine off with a C-style puller. I used a heat gun. You heat up the hub of the prop. Make sure you leave that nut on there. And be prepared, when it lets go and pops off, it's noisy and will get your heart beating if you're not ready for it.
          1998 Ski Nautique (Red/Silver Cloud), GT-40, Perfect Pass Stargazer 8.0z (Zbox), Acme #422, Tunable Rudder.

          Comment

          • OKWAKEBDR
            Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
            • May 2005
            • 750

            • Lakefront

            • 2017 Super Air Nautique G23

            #6
            Just crank down the C-style puller until it pops. I also grease the shaft and key when I put the new prop on - makes it MUCH easier to take off later.
            Current: 2017 G23
            Previous: 2012 210 TE (former PN boat), 2005 210 TE, 2001 X-Star

            Comment

            • xrichard
              Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
              • Aug 2008
              • 669

              • El Dorado Hills

              • 2023 G23

              #7
              I had trouble getting mine off w/a C-style puller. I cranked very hard. I tried heat. I tried hitting it. Then I tried spraying some PB lube (don't know if it helped), cranked the puller and left it over night. The next day I tightened the puller just a little and the prop popped off.

              In the future, I'll avoid hitting the puller--all of that energy goes straight to the transmission. Patience worked for me in the end...just put it under a lot of tension and leave it.

              Also, you might want to search on the CCFan site for "lapping" the shaft while your prop is off.
              Previous boats:
              2015 G23
              2008 SAN 210
              2002 XStar
              1995 Sport Nautique

              Comment

              • TRBenj
                1,000 Post Club Member
                • May 2005
                • 1681

                • NWCT


                #8
                Originally posted by OKWAKEBDR View Post
                Just crank down the C-style puller until it pops. I also grease the shaft and key when I put the new prop on - makes it MUCH easier to take off later.
                FYI, you do NOT want to install the prop with any grease. A proper fit on the taper is how the prop stays on- it transmits 90% of the force (the key only does 10%).

                I have a c-style puller and its not ideal, as it loads up one side more than the other. A 3-bolt or 4-bolt puller like the one shown above will pull much more evenly. That being said, I have yet to encounter a prop that I couldnt remove with the c-style. Install it as tight as you can, and then pop the back side of the puller with a hammer. Hit it once, decently hard, and it should pop. If not, re-tighten and repeat. Let it sit for a while with tension on it and it should work even better. If you use heat, then heat the prop (heat = expansion), not the shaft.
                1990 Ski Nautique
                NWCT

                Comment

                • Chexi
                  1,000 Post Club Member
                  • Apr 2025
                  • 2119

                  • Austin

                  • 2000 SAN

                  #9
                  Thanks all!
                  Now
                  2000 SAN

                  Previously
                  1999 Air Nautique
                  1996 Tige Pre-2000
                  1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard

                  Comment

                  • OKWAKEBDR
                    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                    • May 2005
                    • 750

                    • Lakefront

                    • 2017 Super Air Nautique G23

                    #10
                    Originally posted by TRBenj View Post
                    FYI, you do NOT want to install the prop with any grease. A proper fit on the taper is how the prop stays on- it transmits 90% of the force (the key only does 10%).

                    I have a c-style puller and its not ideal, as it loads up one side more than the other. A 3-bolt or 4-bolt puller like the one shown above will pull much more evenly. That being said, I have yet to encounter a prop that I couldnt remove with the c-style. Install it as tight as you can, and then pop the back side of the puller with a hammer. Hit it once, decently hard, and it should pop. If not, re-tighten and repeat. Let it sit for a while with tension on it and it should work even better. If you use heat, then heat the prop (heat = expansion), not the shaft.
                    I've used grease for years without a problem - ever, and the instructions I got with my ACME Marine C-Puller Kit from Delta Propeller said to do it.
                    Current: 2017 G23
                    Previous: 2012 210 TE (former PN boat), 2005 210 TE, 2001 X-Star

                    Comment

                    • AirTool
                      1,000 Post Club Member
                      • Sep 2007
                      • 4049

                      • Katy, Texas


                      #11
                      I had to heat last year for the first time.

                      Take a sharpie and mark the side of the hub between two blades and heat only that area. DON'T heat the entire hub or the trick doesn't work. If you heat only one side, it expands and increases the diameter of the hole. If you heat the whole thing, it all expands and could actually get tighter. (follow me?)

                      I also put a piece of cardboard between prop and bottom of boat.

                      I also wrapped the bushing in a wet rag.

                      If you have a bbq hose that fits your tank and torch, it is easier to control the torch than with a bottle on it....and liquid doesn't put the flame out.

                      Comment

                      • Chexi
                        1,000 Post Club Member
                        • Apr 2025
                        • 2119

                        • Austin

                        • 2000 SAN

                        #12
                        I will be using my creme brulee torch, as I don't have the kind with the big bottle of gas. It's a lot smaller and easier to get in there. It also is easy to shut off.

                        Thanks for the tips AirTool. I was wondering how that would work... seemed like it would just make it tighter, but now I understand.
                        Now
                        2000 SAN

                        Previously
                        1999 Air Nautique
                        1996 Tige Pre-2000
                        1989 Lowe 24' Pontoon / Johnson 100HP outboard

                        Comment

                        • AirTool
                          1,000 Post Club Member
                          • Sep 2007
                          • 4049

                          • Katy, Texas


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Chexi View Post
                          I will be using my creme brulee torch, as I don't have the kind with the big bottle of gas. It's a lot smaller and easier to get in there. It also is easy to shut off.

                          Thanks for the tips AirTool. I was wondering how that would work... seemed like it would just make it tighter, but now I understand.
                          It takes surprisingly little heat if it is done right. IIRC, after it popped off (puller on while heating), I couldn't touch the heated area comfortably but I think I could touch the blades, they are basically cooling fins. I had a water spray bottle nearby and sprayed water on the hub and IIRC it didn't sizzle.

                          There was absolutely no heat in the shaft.

                          Comment

                          • DanielC
                            1,000 Post Club Member
                            • Nov 2005
                            • 2669

                            • West Linn OR

                            • 1997 Ski Nautique

                            #14
                            I have also used heat to remove a stubborn propeller.
                            I squirt some water into the strut bushing, from the upper end, and then wrap a wet rag around the strut, trying to get part of the rag between the propeller shaft, and the strut.
                            I use an oxyacetylene torch, with a poor man's rosebud tip. (cutting tip, DO NOT PUSH THE OXYGEN LEVER)

                            Point the heat away from the fiberglass, and heat the hub between the blades. Follow all the other advise about loosening the nut, but leaving it on. Apply pressure with the puller, while heating the prop hub. Usually 10 to 15 seconds of heat applied, and the propeller pops off.

                            I also have a propane torch, but my thought is the much more intense heat of the oxyacetylene heats the hub up faster, and heat does not have time to transfer to the shaft.

                            If you have applied a lot of pressure to your puller in the past, it may be sprung. If the end of the clamp that goes between the prop hub, and the strut, is not exactly perpendicular to the prop shaft, it pulls the propeller crooked, and it is a lot harder to pull the prop off.
                            Last edited by DanielC; 03-20-2012, 12:18 PM.

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