Oil Change - 2006 210

[Steve1]

Anyone have good instructions on how to do your own oil changes on an '06 210 or is the owners manual the best place to reference?

Also someone told me that the oil only needs to be changed every 500 hours or once a season? I'm used to having this done every 50 hours. Surely the 500 hour thing isn't true?

Thanks for any help.

[gride]

Whoever told u 500 should be slapped. Every 50 hours and use a Pela pump.

[crobi2]

Every season or 50ish hours I agree. 50 hours on a boat engine is like 5000 miles in a car.

On that 2006 you should have a remote oil filter that's easy to get to. It will also have a hose to drain the oil from the crankcase. The hose is usually draped over the engine and trapped in place with other hoses and wires or sometimes has a clip. You can shove the end out of the bilge drain hole and drain into a pan or you can use a vacuum extractor down the dipstick as suggested by gride.

You can also make an adapter for the vacuum extractor to the threaded end of the oil drain hose and have the best of all worlds.

[Steve1]

Thanks guys.

So it really is as easy as using the Pela to suck out the old oil, change the filter, and then replace the oil and warm up the engine? I've never changed oil on anything other than an atv before but don't want to pay a mobile mechanic $200 or pay Nautique for an oil change plus dockside service.

[crobi2]

Yep, it's that easy!

Don't forget to have a water source to the engine before ever starting it - even for 30 seconds. That's all it would take to mess up a dry impeller.

[AirTool]

Your engine needs to be HOT before you change the oil.

If you are dockside, you definitely need a vacuum pump and connect it to the hose fitting. Do not extract through the dipstick - ever. Unless it is your only choice and I know it is not your only choice.

If you don't use a vacuum pump, it takes HOURS to drain the oil...even hot oil. I drain mine overnight or it doesn't all come out and your fresh oil change will turn black fast with the amount of old oil. This year I may adapt the vac pump to hose so I can finish in one day.

When I start my oil draining, I break lose the filter for a moment to let some air in the lines then tighten it back and the head and hoses will drain faster. Those lines will hold a siphon effect (especially if cold) and often don't drain until the filter is opened which I usually do the next day after all the oil except what is in the filter has drained back into the pan and then your bottle. The next day the filter is cool to touch and less oil spills out into the zip bag. (put a zip bag under the filter when you take it off.)

MEASURE how much oil you get out and put no more than that in your engine until you check the stick or you will over fill it. It generally will not take a full 5 quarts.

[scott resick]

also, be sure the drain hose is pulled completely through the drain hole in the bottom of your boat. If a bend, or piece of the hose is higher than your oil pan, the oil will not drain.

[Steve1]

Thanks everyone for the tips. I'll get out there tomorrow and see if i can locate both where the drain line with the hose fitting is as well as the where the filter is. Presumably if i was able to follow directions enough to change the impeller I should be able to handle an oil change.

Appreciate all of the help.

[AirTool]

If your boat is dockside, maybe don't go through the drain plug...as your boat will sink.

I use the suck up. There is also Moeller and Pela.

Use the PN site discount and the price is less: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/asuck-uppump.aspx