Upgrade to Disc Brakes

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  • mf01
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Jun 2005
    • 515

    • Austin, TX


    Upgrade to Disc Brakes

    My current trailer brakes have some type of a leak. Every time I trailer somewhere the master cylinder loses fluid. I'm pretty sure that the Drum brakes aren't helping out. I'm thinking my best option would be 12" Disc Brakes. I've been looking at the Kodiak Dacroment brakes. Anyone have any opinions of these?

    I think I'll need following:
    2 - 12" Brake Kits
    Brake line Kit
    Disc Brake Lockout

    Am I missing anything? Thanks.
    Previous:
    2011 Super Air Nautique 210
    1994 Sport Nautique
  • crobi2
    • Dec 2010
    • 337

    • Texas

    • 2000 Super Air Nautique

    #2
    New master cylinder to work with the disc brakes.
    Rob
    2000 SAN

    Comment

    • mf01
      Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
      • Jun 2005
      • 515

      • Austin, TX


      #3
      Originally posted by crobi2 View Post
      New master cylinder to work with the disc brakes.
      Not needed. I just need to remove the residual valve.
      Previous:
      2011 Super Air Nautique 210
      1994 Sport Nautique

      Comment

      • BrennanK
        • Feb 2009
        • 348

        • Hopkins, MN

        • 1997 Ski Nautique

        #4
        I did this on my 1997 Single Axle Ramlin two years ago. It was the best thing I have ever done for that boat.

        I decided to replace the master cylinder as well, because I wanted electric brake lock out.
        I got this kit here, and asked them to swap out the actuator for a Tie Down Model 66.
        Easy install and all the parts required were in that kit, which made it really nice. Because the electric back up solenoid required me to change my wiring plug, I just opted for a 7 way plug so I don't need to use an adapter and it fits much better.

        I would do it again in a heartbeat.
        1997 Ski Nautique

        Comment

        • crobi2
          • Dec 2010
          • 337

          • Texas

          • 2000 Super Air Nautique

          #5
          Originally posted by mf01 View Post
          Not needed. I just need to remove the residual valve.
          Hah! I think I learn something new from this site every day. I just went to Champion Trailers website and read all about the residual valve. Apparently, it's a checkvalve to keep a little pressure in a drum system to counteract the effects of the brake springs. So all you have to do is take it out and you're good to go. I always thought that drum brake master cylinders did not supply enough pressure for disc brakes. Learn something every day.
          Rob
          2000 SAN

          Comment

          • ski4evr
            Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
            • May 2010
            • 613

            • Bowling Green, KY

            • 2005 SV 211

            #6
            Make sure that the stroke for the disc brakes in the master cylinder is the same for drum. When I added discs to the second axle, I had to rebuild the actuator with a different pushrod.
            2005 SV-211

            Comment

            • jmo
              Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
              • Mar 2006
              • 707

              • MA


              #7
              The leak is most likely emanating the section of brake line running inside the frame as it has probably rusted through/cracked - this happened on my old 2001 trailer shortly after I had upgraded to the Kodiak SCAD disk brake set up, which worked out great by the way. With the trailer in the driveway you can use a large screwdriver to manually engage the piston in the actuator so you can track down where the leak is coming from...
              2018 Ski Nautique 200 TE, H6
              - 2006 Ski Nautique 196 LE, Excalibur 330
              - 2001 Super Sport Nautique, GT40

              Comment

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