Gapping Points

[Kevin_B]

Having some engine trouble and the won't boat crank. I think it's points but have never changed them myself. I can't find anywhere in either the PCM manual or the CC manual where it states what the gap should be. I saw something that said .024 but it was vague and I couldn't tell if it was for points or something else. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Its a Ford 351 on a 1990 Sport Nautique.

THANKS

[Nautiquehunter]

The point gap for a Mallory distributor is .020'' and for a Prestolite distributor is .018'' Make sure you put the rubbing block of the point at the top of the distributor cam lobe when you check the gap.

[AirTool]

And maybe check it it with a dwell meter after putting it back together.

I'm thinking you can do that. I'm getting so old it is hard to remember all the things I've forgotten.

[Nautiquehunter]

If you have a dwell meter the spec is Mallory 24 to 29 degrees Prestolite 29 to 33 degrees. Remember before you put anything between the points it must be absolutely clean . If it has any oil the points will burn up prematurely.

[AirTool]

If you have a dwell meter the spec is Mallory 24 to 29 degrees Prestolite 29 to 33 degrees. Remember before you put anything between the points it must be absolutely clean . If it has any oil the points will burn up prematurely.

Thanks...that's the way to do it. Even if it takes a few off and ons of the cap. I remember a few of my early vehicles had a trap door in the cap and you could stick a flexible Allen wrench or something in there and adjust while the engine was running. Shear genius.

I wonder what the thickness of today's driver's license is....that was the old emergency capping tool.

The industry finally perfected distributors.....and now they're gone

[gtxragtop]

Thanks...that's the way to do it. Even if it takes a few off and ons of the cap. I remember a few of my early vehicles had a trap door in the cap and you could stick a flexible Allen wrench or something in there and adjust while the engine was running. Shear genius.

I wonder what the thickness of today's driver's license is....that was the old emergency capping tool.

The industry finally perfected distributors.....and now they're gone

Yep, that would be the GM distributor. You set the gap by a dwell meter. This was real nice. Don't forget to replace the capacitor along with the points. The caps go and this causes the points to burn prematurely. As for a quick check for prestolite distributors, a matchbook cover thickness was very close to perfect. As stated, make sure you rotate the engine such that the point cam high spot is opening the points to the widest gap.

[Kevin_B]

Thanks for all the info guys, it still won't start and I'm running out of ideas. Possibly the condenser. I put a volt meter on the battery hookup on the condenser and then on a ground and was only registering about 4 volts. this seems low to me. But I don't know, Im running out of ideas and ability. Any help or idea if appreciated. First pull is on me if anyone is in the greensboro area and wants to help.