I have a 2008 SANTE 210 w/ZR-6 that has only 48 hours on but it's time for some maintenance. I just picked up a new impeller, serpentine belt & still plan to buy a new FCC filter & primary fuel filter....never been replaced yet. I tried to have some of this work done by my dealer when I had my boat winterized but he said not to bother with it each year. My local dealer went under this year so now I will have to do the work myself but I wanted to learn how to service my own boat anyways. I've changed a impeller on a DD but never on a v-drive, it looks to be quite simple reading the PCM manual but do I use the same O-rings on the raw water pump housing or install new ones? Also, I haven't had the boat on the water yet this year & is still winterized with rv antifreeze, should I flush the system out first to prevent draining the rv antifreeze into the bilge once I remove the raw water housing or should I not worry about it?
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Impeller: read the entire thread. Note for the impeller I put in last week, I lubed it with solid soybean oil for frying french fried since I wasn't heading straight to the lake.
Good idea to replace your belt and keep your old as a spare.
Your year may not have a pre-filter. You need to look at the parts list for your year.
I'm hoping to make a DIY on the FCC in the next two weeks. No guarantee.
No comment on antifreeze.
http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/sh...-PCM-Excalibur
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Thanks AirTool, I was asking about replacing the O-rings because I bought the impeller kit RP061022 & there were none included with the package. I realized after reading your link they should have been included, I just looked at the back of the kit & see the paper has been ripped off the back of the package. It looks like I'll have to return this impeller kit for a new one.
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For now, just re-use your old one.
options:
1. Carefully pick it out with an o-ring pick or wooden toothpick. Then grease it up with wheel bearing grease and put it back in.
2. just wipe some wheel bearing grease on it still in the cover and put it back together.
The three o-rings on the screws or only mechanical to keep the capscrews from falling out when you pull the cover. You don't even have to use them.
I just changed mine and kept my old one for a spare. If you lost yours, I can mail it to you. I think I know right where it is.
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Thanks again, I picked up an O ring for the impeller today from the marine shop along with a primary fuel filter & FCC filter. In the PCM manual it states to use a thread sealant suitable for use with gasoline for the 7/16 plug on the bottom of the FCC bowl, when I asked for this from several shops all I got in return were some blank stares. I ended up buying some red loctite but I'm hesitant to use it till I know forsure what I need to use. The manual also called for a fuel resistant O-ring lubricant for changing the FCC filter but the marine shop said not to worry about it, they said using lube will increase the chance of dirt or debris sticking to the O-ring. OK, should he have said use O-ring lubricant only if you can get that slippery thing installed without dropping it on the floor first?
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Originally posted by Beachrat View Post... when I asked for this from several shops all I got in return were some blank stares.
Don't use loctite on the drain connector. Permatex has a thread sealant that is fuel resistant. I think two of the three are. One says "do not use on fuel connectors" or something like that. The others say safe for gasoline. You can find it on the site. Long ago, the "high temp" was not safe for fuel but the last time I checked, i couldn't find that statement.
Just use grease colored wheel bearing grease or oil on the FCC o-ring. o=rings shouldn't be put on dry. they need some lube as the connection is made. Over time, lube is less important.Last edited by AirTool; 06-12-2012, 12:13 PM.
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Here it is. I picked some up at either Pep Boys or Auto Zone.
Web page says "for fuel lines" MSDS says resist gasoline.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/56521.pdf
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