Trans fluid change!

[derekpfeiffer]

I've read some posts on here reguarding this but just wanted some clarification. I had looked on the trans and saw that it reccommended DEX II So I ordered Royal Purple ATF and changed the oil per instructions and everything went perfect. After changing the oil I noticed in the book where it said for the PCM Trannys that 20w-20 motor oil should be used? That makes no sense to me!

I also checked the oil (cold) with the dipstick resting on the bottom o-ring and it was just below the top mark...Is this correct and can someone explain the hot checking vs cold checking procedure?

Thanks!!

[east tx skier]

Dexron/Mercon (current generation) is fine. I use it in my 98. I have not seen the 20W reference with PCM Power Plus Transmissions, but I have seen it in the MC V-drives and gear reduced transmissions to eliminate a rattle they were experiencing.

[derekpfeiffer]

thanks for the info!!

[Chexi]

I also checked the oil (cold) with the dipstick resting on the bottom o-ring and it was just below the top mark...Is this correct and can someone explain the hot checking vs cold checking procedure?

Thanks!!

The hot checking procedure should be in the manual. If I remember correctly, you need to have the boat level (I did it in the water). After you have run the boat for a bit and warmed up the motor, turn off the boat. Pull the tranny dipstick. Clean it off. Start the engine (with the dipstick out). Run for 1 minute. Shut off motor and put in dipstick all the way and pull it (as fast as you can after shutting off the motor). Check it. That is your hot reading.

That said, my reading was about the same as when I took it in my storage shed after a day on the lake.

[DanielC]

Warm the boat up, by running it in a lake. With the engine idling in neutral, shift forward, neutral, reverse, back to neutral. Check oil without shutting off engine. Do not shift into gear with the dipstick removed.

My opinion, use conventional oils and ATF in your Nautique. Using synthetic oils DO NOT extend the service life.

[derekpfeiffer]

I can get Royal Purple for the same cost as conventional so I run it plus it's way better oil.

When checking warm do I push the dipstick all the way down or let it rest on lower o-ring??

Thanks for the info!!!!

[DanielC]

Checking warm, engine running, push the dip stick all the way in.

It takes more than purple dye to improve the quality of an oil.

[derekpfeiffer]

I couldn't agree more!!!

[crobi2]

As long as the Royal purple ATF fluid is not synthetic it should ought to be ok.

Doesn't Eric over a CCFan recommend NOT using synthetic transmission fluid in these trannys because you don't want the clutch plates to be too slick? Or something like that?

[DanielC]

All I can say is I have 2390 hours on a 1997 Ski Nautique, used quite often in show skiing. This use may include towing more than two adults off the pylon, or possibly towing one of our docks or jump across lakes, bays, or on rivers. I also sometimes pull a swivel skier around 12 to 14 MPH. But in the grand scheme of things, I think I work my transmission pretty hard.
The fluid gets changed every other engine oil change. It looks brand new, but I change it anyway.
I use currently Valvoline DEX/MERC part number vv357. You can get it in one gallon containers.

[AirTool]

As usual, I agree with DanielC. I've owned, operated, or repaired many engines over my life and using dinosaur lubricants has never been the limiting factor to their lives or failures.

My dad is on his second truck since 1983. The 83 chevy had over 300k miles when he gave it away - the guy wanted the engine. The 97 F150 he has as almost 300K and the engine anciallaries like exhause manifolds and bolts and stuff are falling apart but the engine doesn't know, smoke, or whatever and has great oil pressure. I'm just thinking how much money he has saved over 30 years not wasting money on some magical oil.

Unless your oil operates at over 300 degrees F like an industrial compressor, turbine, or something, just use regular old stuff of any name brand and get over it. In fact, even no-name brands (like Walmart) are generally just as good / the same tests have shown.

[derekpfeiffer]

Well the results we've seen at work speak for themselves. Guess i can't imagine that synthetic thats compatible with dextron do any harm?? Or maybe I'm missing something?

[Polar Express]

If a lubricant is designed to be used as an ATF, in theory, (yes, I did write 'theory') it should have the proper friction coefficients to earn the rating it has.

In my humble opinion, I usually reach for Dino oil, because it's cheaper, and I for one, want the rest of the crud that builds up OUT of my various fluids, so, I would rather spend the same $$ on Dino lubricants, and change them more often, than stick with Synthetic oils and leave them in longer. Are there some filters that can get out more, and finer particles? Of course, however, the filters won't get acids, and chemicals out. The chemicals are less of an issue with a gearbox than say with a crankcase where you do have small amounts of the byproducts of combustion that to slip past the rings.

There are some areas where the synthetics do shine, here are a couple examples:
1)high temperature applications is one
2)another is where it's a high enough volume where getting the oil analyzed to determine the EXACT condition makes financial sense (think 18-wheel trucks, and power-plants that take HUGE amounts of oil) When an oil analysis costs $30 or more, it's usually cost-prohibitive in passenger cars and trucks, pleasure craft boats, etc. But when an oil change costs $500 or more, then spending $30-$50 to get your oil fully analyzed to KNOW the exact condition makes sense.

In crankcase situations, I almost always add some lubrication supplement, either Hilton Hyper-lube, or Power-punch, or Bardahl, because so many of todays EPA regulations (largely erroneous claims propagated by special interest groups) have forced the oil manufactures to remove some of the chemicals from the oils that made the oils effective. (I have a wonderful article written about diesel-rated oils if anyone wants, shoot me a PM with an email, and I'll forward it to you) So, by adding one of those products, it's a somewhat economical way to reduce the wear inside my engine, thus prolonging the life of the truck I love.

Anyway, I didn't mean to go all 'engineer' on anyone, just use some education to clear up some potential misunderstandings.

All that being said.. I have a 96 SNOB, that didn't come with any kind of manual, and I'm trying to find out just what oil weight and grade is called for in the engine, and direct-drive... but I just started looking when i stumbled on this thread.

PE

[Chexi]

The manual is probably posted here on pn. If it is a gt40, the manual will tell you straight 40w with zddp. Hard to find in the stores, but you can order it online or at the car stores. I ordered 2 cases of it (vavoline racing oil 40w) when it was on sale last year at o'reilly for like half price.

[AirTool]

Well the results we've seen at work speak for themselves. Guess i can't imagine that synthetic thats compatible with dextron do any harm?? Or maybe I'm missing something?

Maybe just swell your o-rings so much they leak. Less popular problem today than in the past. But I've seen it too many times.