Alternator upgrade questions -- please help!~

[jhiestand]

I ordered an alternator upgrade kit from my local dealer and am stuck on the install, specifically the electric hookups on the alternator. Was hoping maybe some experts could lend me a hand. This is for a Correct Craft GT40 100amp upgrade, if it makes any difference.

1. In hooking up new ground wire to alternator the directions don't say which post to hook up to on the alternator. I'm assuming it's "Spot 2" in photo? The other end says to go to the battery ground location on the bell housing. I'm assuming that is the ground spot on the transmission housing?

2. The new positive cable to the alternator I assume should go to "Spot 1"? Obviously it isn't #2 and I don't know that #3 is even used at all. The other end goes to the positive on the starter which is pretty easy.

3. "Cut existing green wire from engine harness.." I'm assuming this is just the green wire I unhooked from the old alternator?

I think the rest isn't too bad. Any help? Am I on the right track?

Thanks!

[alanholt]

not completely familiar with the alternator you have but they all work the same way, you need to earth the chassis to the engine earth point (spot 2) hook up the live output wire to the battery positives on your starter (spot 1). Spot 3 would normally be a 12v supply from the ignition circuit that excites/ energises the coils and when the windings start to spin initiates the charging. this supply often arrivesvia an ignition warning light so when the alternator isn't charging it acts as an earth and the warning light illuminates. As soon as the alternator starts to charge the bulb loses its earth and goes out. I'm not sure if this is the green wire your refering to or if its part of the check engine warning light circuit. Either way I think you need 3 connections to an alternator.

[alanholt]

I notice there is some writing next to posts1 and 3 what does it say?

[jhiestand]

Hey alanholt, thanks for the reply! OK, spot #2 looks like a no-brainer (ground). Spot #1 seems pretty straightforward too as that appears to be the positive cable that runs directly to the starter solenoid positive post. Now I'm wondering about spot #3, as it is recessed and although a bolt was supplied with the kit, it doesn't appear to be easy to make an electrical connection to. My guess is it'd be the 'check engine' circuit (aka green wire) you're referring to.

The 'green wire' connection actually is a wiring harness that has a red & a green wire, that in turn plugs up into the upper left of the picture. The instructions say to run that red wire from the harness to the positive post. You think that is spot #3, or could it ALSO be to #1?

THanks again for your reply.

[jhiestand]

oh, and both #1 & #3 say "15 Nm max"

[Giddyup]

I just finished installing the same alt. I hooked it up just as you described. Don't forget to completely remove the ORANGE wire from the 60 amp breaker. Its a tight fit in a V-drive. Mike

[jhiestand]

Well, I went with hooking both postives up to spot #1 and it seems to be working fine. That how you hooked yours up Giddyup? At idle I'm definitely noticing a difference in charging when looking at my voltmeter, but I can still drag it down to 12ish by running stereo, heater plus pretty much any other accessory. I can live with it.

[alanholt]

Glad your all installed and charging! I'm going to have to do this mod on my 01 Air Nautique, when we run too hard on the lights and Amp its not happy! My guess is that spot 3 could be to an ignition warning light that we don't use in our application maybe on a car or another type of boat? anyway if your making charge it obviously works without it!

[Giddyup]

When I hooked mine up, I also installed a perko switch. Now all three postions see ~13.8volts 1) starting batt, 2) 2 batts for stereo-3amps, and 3) both banks together. Before the new alt, the volt meter would move with the beat of the music, now it holds steady at full volume(1800watts rms). I think 2 dedicated optimas to the stereo really helped. Mike