Trailer maintanance

[Motox811]

I need to replace the stringers and carpet on my trailer (for a 2001 SN, tandem axel trailer). Can I use redwood and a very short napp (commercial) style carpet from HD? Is there a specific carpet to use other than the stuff from HD?

[CradGen2]

Moto,

I'm not a carpet guy, but most trailer manufactures have replacement carpet for their trailers. HD stuff might be ok, but I use the carpet they use. Might be more expensive, but its only a 40K boat sitting on it.

I've said this before. I love watching people buy a $1,200 gun and ask where the 20.00 holsters are.

[east tx skier]

Treated pine and olefin marine carpet from HD or Lowes will work well. I bought some carpet from my trailer manufacturer and, although it was nice to have it precut, it was not as robust as the olefin I bought for my previous trailer. I double up the carpet on the top part of the bunk regardless of brand.

Also, make sure to bevel the inside top edge of the bunks or they will eat up the carpet in short order. Use stainless hardware (bolts, nuts, and staples). Trailer manufacturers vary on how they attach the bunks. Mine uses carriage bolts and double nuts on the underside (nylock nuts have a tenancy to turn carriage bolts in the bunks. Once you get the boat back on the trailer, go back under there and tighten up all of the nuts again. Also, while you have your bunks off, check the angle iron bunk supports. May not be a bad time to grind them down and repaint or reinforce them if they have rusted.

[C.A.]

Nautiqueparts.com has the carpet for $29.50:

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/trailer...for2bunks.aspx

Use the planetnautique discount code (PND?)......

[Motox811]

Thank you for the info. Do you think it is "do-able" to pre cut, carpet, and drill the new stringers so all i have to do this weekend at the lake is unbolt the old and then bolt on the new? Is that too risky? I am a Home Builder by trade, and a custom fabricator by hobby so i am no stranger to proper layout and tight tolerances.

[DanielC]

The last time I replaced trailer bunks, I cut the boards to length, and used clamps to hold them in position. I then drilled holes up from the bottom, through the bunk supports, and then counter sunk the top side of the hole, so the bolt head would sit below flush in the new bunk, I also used a carpet glue to secure the carpet on the bunk, as well as staples.

I used GDF wood. (Green Douglas Fir)

[AirTool]

I think that is risky...you need a backup plan in case everything is rusted to !#$% and you get surprised/delayed.

[east tx skier]

Agreed. I would pull the bunks and use them as a template to drill the rear holes. Then set those bolts and do the fronts (and mids if applicable). If you have any twist in your bunks, a come-along is helpful along with another set of hands depending on how much twist there is. I would also suggest not using glue. Typically, carpet will wear out before the bunks do and it makes replacing the carpet much easier if you don't have to deal with the glue.

[Motox811]

I went to HD today and bought new 2x, im sure i pissed the guy off by pulling all of the hockey sticks out of the bunk in search of straight pieces of lumber. Also, their marine carpet was fairly inexpensive and is now sitting in my garage. I looked at the set up and i feel confident it shouldnt be a problem to do at my campsite while the boat is in the water. I have enough cordless dewalt tools to build a country so i should be set.

[Ferus]

Great insight! Replacing bunks at the campsite.