First Time Winterizing ZR409 CES

[ericchile]

New to me 2009 230 SANTE with the ZR409. Talked to the dealership and all they said they do is drain. My understanding is with the CES it is a full closed loop system so it is much easier?
I would love it if someone would check over my checklist.

1. Add fuel stabilizer to full and fill to 3/4 full tank.

2. Run engine for 7 min to operating temperature while connected to hose system (I am using a large bucket with the intake hose connected to a clear tube of water).

3. Drain, replace oil filter, and fill with oil. Run engine again.

4. Disconnect water filter and place ring & gasket in zip lock bag.

5. Remove hose connections on either side of impeller pump and let drain.

6. Remove drain plug from bottom of V drive and let drain.

7. Remove drive belt and place in secure location.

8 Dissemble impeller pump, remove impeller, place in zip lock bag. Put pump housing back on.

9. Spray engine with White WD-40 and clean.

10. Run all bilge's pumps on empty. Making sure all water is out. Put 1 gallon of RV antifreeze in each vent and run pumps forward and backward.

11. Clean interior with 303. Dry bilge as best I can. Pull it around on behind tow vehicle, up some hills to make sure all water is out. Remove carpet store inside house. Wax outside of boat.

12. Shrink wrap and store on jack stands.


This is all new to me. But my understanding after reading the PCM and Nautique manuals is that the CES engines are pretty easy to winterize. It does get down to around -10f here so i really don't want any problems come spring. Thoughts?

[Miljack]

That's a pretty good checklist. Is "CES" the acronym for "Coastal Edition Series?" If yes, then I assume the engine has closed loop cooling water and don't need to be drained?
For #3-while running you're checking for leaks from the oil filter and drain plug (if you used it to drain the oil)
Also if it's that cold there, removing the batteries and charging them inside is a good idea. I also like to remove any cushions possible to let them really dry out inside.
For where you are, the humidity shouldn't be a problem, however if you're shrink wrapping yourself, make sure the kit has the vents.

[Miljack]

What I meant to ask, "closed loop cooling of manifolds, and therefore don't need to drain the manifolds or block?" Coffee hadn't kicked in yet!

[ericchile]

That's a pretty good checklist. Is "CES" the acronym for "Coastal Edition Series?" If yes, then I assume the engine has closed loop cooling water and don't need to be drained?
For #3-while running you're checking for leaks from the oil filter and drain plug (if you used it to drain the oil)
Also if it's that cold there, removing the batteries and charging them inside is a good idea. I also like to remove any cushions possible to let them really dry out inside.
For where you are, the humidity shouldn't be a problem, however if you're shrink wrapping yourself, make sure the kit has the vents.

CES stands for Clean Emissions System. Yea I forgot add 'remove the batteries and store off hard surface, charge once a month'.

Also do I need to drain the Fuel cell?

[ericchile]

Also do I need to fog the cylinders?

[Miljack]

on the "CES" I don't know about the CATS, best to confirm the winterizing procedure on those, don't want to replace one of those manifolds/CATS ($$$$).
Draining the fuel cell is a good idea given the crappy fuel that's out there these days. There is a drain fitting at the bottom of the FCC.

Fogging the cylinders on a modern EFI engine elicits many responses. I have not done this on my past boat (EFI), and I don't know what PCM's position is currently on this. If you're in Utah, you should have very little humidity to worry about doing this procedure which addresses the oil running off of the pistons, cylinder walls, valve stems, etc...Your lay up time is probably longer than ours here in the Southeast, so that will factor into your decision.

We're lucky down here (or I'm stubborn!), and we usually are only laid up around 3-4 months...

[ericchile]

Looks like I need to drain the heat exchanger as well.

[Miljack]

Your step #5 will do that, but to be safe there's also a drain plug on the heat exchanger.

[ericchile]

Also do I need to drain the Fuel cell?

Still not sure about this. The manual says to 'service' the FCC. I think I would prefer to do this in the spring if there is no risk of freezing and it breaking.

Also it says to drain the transmission. But on the diagram it doesn't show the transmissionplug?

[ericchile]

Suppose to get down to 25F tonight. So it was the transmission cooler that I was referring to. I removed the hose leaving the cooler and going to the raw water pump. Then removed the little bolt on the transmission cooler on the filter side of it (no water came out). Hopefully that is it?

Didn't touch the FCC.

[H2O]

The V-Drive must be drained! It has lake water inside for cooling. See your diagram above labeled "PCM V-Drive". There is a drain plug at the 6 O'clock position in the front of the V-Drive. Might need a mirror to see it. Use a 6" extension on a 1/2" drive to remove it. The plug has a 1/2" square hole.

[H2O]

Also, when replacing the hose on the end of the transmission cooler do not overtighten the hose clamp. The cooler is made of very soft metal (copper?) and is crushed very easily. Just the hose clamp will crush the inlet if tightened too much.

[ericchile]

Got the v drive. Not hard at all. Thanks for the heads up H2O

[ericchile]

I emptied the FCC into a mason jar and no water came out. Hope that is normal for a boat with 70 hours.

[scottb7]

I replaced my inline and fcc filter, and i also had no water in the fcc canister.