Fuel Tank Removal 97 Sport

[trsulliv]

Greetings, I have a bad fuel level sensor in my '97 Sport and need some help on how to get it moved so I can get at the sensor. I've got the rear panels out but am not sure what I have to remove next. Thanks.

[DanielC]

This is based on a 1997 Ski Nautique,
I am assuming the rear seat is out, and the panels are the vertical rear panels in the back of the boat.
If you taking the tank completely out, drain as much of the gas as you can.
Remove the rear center floor board.
This should give you access to the four nuts, welded to two straps that go over the top of the tank, and hold it in the boat.
Loosen the nuts, remove the straps.
Disconnect the fuel filler hose, and the vent hose.
The gas pickup and return line from the engine should have enough slack to slide the tank forward.
If you are trying to just get to fuel lever sender, you can pull the tank far enough forward to clear the back of the boat. No need to completely remove the tank.

[trsulliv]

Thanks. I have a trunk/ski storage area so I have not taken the seat out yet. I think I can it into the trunk to gain access to the sensor, but not sure if that is the right direction

[trsulliv]

[QUOTE=trsulliv;189752]Thanks. I have a trunk/ski storage area so I have not taken the seat out yet. I was not sure if I can move the tank backwards to access the gauge, or if I should or have to pull the seat and move it forward.

[Miljack]

[QUOTE=trsulliv;189752]Thanks. I have a trunk/ski storage area so I have not taken the seat out yet. I was not sure if I can move the tank backwards to access the gauge, or if I should or have to pull the seat and move it forward.

Sounds like it's a 98 model with a trunk/decklid between the rear seat and platform? If yes, you will still need to follow Daniel's list to get the tank to move forward or back. If your boat has factory ballast tanks, you will only be able to move it forward.

I can tell you from experience removing the fuel lines is a b!%($, just take your time as the fittings are all barbed!
I think the fuel sending unit is on top of the tank, make sure that's the problem before you go through all the trouble to move the tank!

[s_kelley2000]

I agree with the above, removing the hoses is the toughest part. I can't find the exact tool I used but something like the pliers shown about halfway down this link will help a lot. The ones I used were Snap On but I couldn't find them on a quick google search.

http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Coolant_hoses

[trsulliv]

Okay, got at it tonight and it was easier than expected - key was I did not have to pull any lines or hoses. So, pulled all the panels out of the trunk and unscrewed the two small stops. The next trick was to figure out how to get the seat out, thought I had to unscrew it from the inside, and then figured out it popped straight up. Found the pins for the seat bottom, and pulled the seat bottom out. Then saw two big brackets that held the tank in place and it looked like I would have to unscrew them from the "crawl space" under the floor. Looked closer and figured out I could turn them 90 degrees which allowed me to slide the tank enought to get full access to the sensor. Pulled the sensor and saw lots of rust and the float was stiff. I believe the rust is due to the fact that the boat only has about 175 hours on it, 115 when I bought it last spring. So the boat sat a lot and am guessin it had a partially full tank and it rust in the headspace. It actually worked when I moved it by hand, but going to order a new one anyway. Suggestions on where to order it?

[Rick]

The way to check it is to put an ohm meeter on the terminals. Then move the float up and down.The resistance should change. If it does you may have a gauge problem. Having said that as you have it out it is not that expensive to replace. I'd get it from Nautiqueparts, a site sponsor as you get a discount. SkiDIM would also have it.