X
-
The first step is to store it out of the sun. Next is to use 3m's line of restoration products with the correct pads on a buffer. If you're scared to burn your gel and/or waste your time with in efficient results, spend $200 and have it done professionally. If the oxidation still won't come out you have to wet sand, and then go through the buffing and waxing process again.
Comment
-
-
Looks like you're using a orbital buffer, it won't work, you need a big rotary buffer. Harbor Freight is fine, you don't want that thing anywhere near a vehicle. Gel won't burn it's very tuff, go ahead and get some 3M polishes and compound and the matching pads, a little spendy but it works wonders to have the pads. I don't remember the names, but I used black, white and blue on mine and the pads are color matched to the polish. Tape off all the stripes and leave them that way for the first 2 (black and white) then go over them with the blue and they get polished as well. Do stay off the printed stickers on the back though because the ink will come off.
Comment
-
-
I had the same issue with my old mastercraft ps190. I used a large rotary buffer with different pads. Initially I used a Farcela grade 3 rubbing paste with the buffer and the outcome was fantastic. However after a season of use you could see where the original decals had been again.
I ended up wetsanding the whole boat using 600 grit, then 800 grit, then 1200 grit and finally a finishing grade paper. Once I had done the whole boat I then used the buffer again. The boat then stayed looking like new.
When I brought my san210 I went straight for the wet sanding and then the buffing.
My advice would be to wet sand it before you buff it. You don't want to end up doing it twice.
It's hard work especially when sanding by hand but the results are well worth the effort.
Good luckCurrent
2001 SAN 210, GT40
Previous
1994 Mastercraft Pro Star 190
1989 14ft Fletcher Arrowflyte Gto
Comment
-
Comment