Winterizing 2003 SAN EX330 photos

[Bimmerboyz]

I'll try to do a quick review of how I winterize my boat. I am not an expert. If I did something wrong please inform me.

Pictures are of low quality, I used a iphone 3GS to take the pictures.

Tools needed

Flat head screw driver
Crescent wrench
Sockets - sizes 7/8" 9/16" 7/16"
Heat gun (not necessary)
Air compressor (not necessary)

Remove the rear seat cushions as you will be stepping all over them. Also to access the V drive unit.



I removed the side carpet around the engine. Makes for easier access.

Pull up on black cross supports




Then pull up carpet side.




Ready to start





Locate the exhaust manifold drain plug.



I use a crescent to remove it.



Water comes out quick so be ready to keep a good grip on the plug.



Next locate the block drain plug, on the starboard (right side) of the boat. Below the exhaust manifolds. I use a 9/16" socket.





Same thing be ready for water as it comes out quick.



Then locate the knock sensor on the port (left) side of the boat. A sensor is on the plug. Squeeze the sides and pull to remove.

Squeeze how my fingers are.


The plug looks like this, I used a 7/8" socket



Next is the plug on the back of the engine by the belts. Fuzzy picture but that is a 7/16" socket on the bolt.



The last plug is on the V drive on the port side. Where my finger is pointing. I use a 9/16 socket on the square head of this plug.



If you have a heater remove this hose. The red one.



I use a heat gun to help pull the hose off, it's a PITA to remove without a heat gun.

[Bimmerboyz]

I remove the filter container and drain that water as well. Use your hand to remove.





Next crank the motor but don't let it start. More water will drain out. I get an air compressor and blow out all the holes to remove extra water. Also blow out the heater core, using the air compressor.



I then remove all the Teflon from the plugs. I use a wire tooth brush.





Replace the Teflon on all the plugs.



Reinstall in reverse if you feel all the water is drained. I add about 4 gallons of RV antifreeze with the motor running through this hose.



I then coat the engine in WD-40. I use a full bottle of fuel stabilizer in a full tank to reduce the negative effects of ethanol.

[DanielC]

Do not leave antifreeze in the water strainer cup. Drain it out, and rinse the cup.

[Quinner]

Nice Job Taking the time to post!!

Would be careful using air in the heater core, low pressure only, lung power is usually adequate.

Do Not Teflon tape the knock sensor.

Add stabilizer before running engine for the last time so it makes its way throughout the fuel system.

Fog cylinders via spark plug holes then rotate assembly by hand.

FCC should also be serviced, drain an oz or two to remove any water.

Never a bad idea to remove the pitot lines at the underside of the gateway box to ensure they are drained.

[Bimmerboyz]

Agreed low pressure in heater core. All plugs are removed when I blow out the water. Little pressure gets to the heater core.

The knock sensor had Teflon on it, so I replaced with Teflon. Why no Teflon?

FCC?

[Quinner]

Did notice the Teflon tape was there before you removed it, whoever did that was uninformed.

You will find the "no tape" spec in the manual or on the tag that was originally on the knock sensor, it also notes torque to IIRC +/-20ftlbs. (verify torque spec). When re-installing I never put a torque wrench on it just made it "snug".

Do not know for certain why "no tape" but imagine any material, Teflon tape, etc, could dampen a correct sensor reading

Do the V-Drives have a separate trans cooler similar to the direct drive? If so that should also be drained, just be careful as they are very thin, in some cases may be easier to remove one hose end instead.

Also if you have a hot/cold shower that will be taped in the block opposite side the knock sensor, where the block plug is in your picture. running the shower pump should drain that. Run the shower while running/adding anti-freeze until color starts to come out the shower head.

[AirTool]

Do not know for certain why "no tape" but imagine any material, Teflon tape, etc, could dampen a correct sensor reading

The knock sensor is a one wire device that uses the "ground" connection to complete the device's circuit. The teflon tape insulates the threads and prevents the sensor from being properly grounded.

[Twrandall]

Great pictorial! Newb question for tournament boats. I live in a climate that rarely hits freezing outside (boat sits in insulated garage) in SoCal. I've owned I/Os before and aside from using fuel stabilizer and flushing (not draining) the cooling system and maybe fogging the cylinders, I've never drained a block or otherwise "winterize" my boats. Should I go to the extent of draining the block an or perform other winter prep activities?

[GCSuper]

Do not leave antifreeze in the water strainer cup. Drain it out, and rinse the cup.

Are you referring to regular anti-freeze or the pink stuff ? And if either, why drain ?

[DanielC]

The antifreeze attacks the plastic in the strainer.
Regular automotive antifreeze is not recommended. It is far more toxic than RV antifreeze. Be sure to keep your pets away from spilled regular antifreeze.

It is a good idea to change the oils for the winter storage. (engine, transmission, V-drive) so contaminated fluids do not sit in your engine all winter long.

You should spray fogging oil in the cylinders through the spark plug holes before a long lay-up. A V-8 engine probably has five or six cylinders with either an intake or exhaust valves open when the engine is stopped. This allows an air exchange in the cylinders, as the temperature goes up and down.

[cloead]

Reinstall in reverse if you feel all the water is drained. I add about 4 gallons of RV antifreeze with the motor running through this hose.

If you pour 4 gallons of antifreeze through that hose it will dump onto the ground. I attached a long hose to that barbed fitting on the strainer and ran the other end into a bucket of antifreeze.

[cloead]

Also don't forget to winterize your ballast!

[mikeki]

Great thread. I have a 2004 Air 226, and the guy I hired to winterize my boat isn't responding to request to de-winterize it. So, I'm doing it myself.

He didn't reinstall Manifold Drain Plug or Block Drain Plug when he winterized it. He left them in a baggie, so I'm reinstalling them. The block drain plug is in, but it is extremely tight to keep screwing it in. Is this normal? How far in does it need to go? It definitely won't come out from where it's at right now.

Regarding the Manifold Drain Plugs, the threads in the manifold are extremely rusted. I can probably get the plug in about 1/4" inch without getting to the really corroded part of the threads. Should I clean out the threads with the WD-40 and a wire brush, or do all get this way after 8 years, and I just screw the plug in.

There are also 2 small bolts left over, that I need to figure where they go. Maybe an 1 1/4" long and one has a lock washer on it. I'm going to check the anti-knock, because they are likely associated with it.

Thanks in advance.

[wantsurf319]

I know this is an old threat, and instead of creating a new one I'm going to ask here. First time in the forum btw. Just purchased a 2002 Super Air, so doing first winterization. Got all of the steps down, but have two questions. Where can i find the gateway box? and also the Fuel Control Cell? Thanks in advance.

[t.franscioni]

The 2002 don't have a gateway box. fuel control cell is in pic here.