Another Bad Switch? 2001 – Super Sport – GT40

[brettmcox]

I HATE to post this questions once again…. but I want to see if you all think I am on the right track.

This is what I have:
2001 GT 40 Super Sport.

Issue I am having.

This past weekend I took my boat out and entered my code to start the boat but I had to try 3-6 times to get the boat to start. ********
The boat has sat for 6 weeks because of fixing fiberglass and trailer.
Once the starter hits she will fire up with NO issues. Runs great.
I drove around the lake for about 45 minutes to get the gas stabilizer mixed up and into the motor.
Drove back to the dock and left the boat running backed the trailer and loaded the boat.
On the trailer I shut down the boat then hit start again and NO START. ****** Hit start 3-6 times again, no start.
This is what I hear. I hear a Click under the dash and Click in the motor bay. Also I hear a strong DRAW in the blower motor, I am not sure if that is due to redirect of power to a start or solenoid that is going bad. ******
After a few tries of reentering the code and moving the shifter around, she started right up. I shut it off and restart a few times.
I do not know if the reentering the code, or flipping the UNDER DASH switch on and off, or moving the shifter, or pressing the start button just right restarted the motor.
After this, I left the under dash switch on and drove the boat to QT to fill the take (3/4) and them back home. When back home, and before I shut off the switch I bumped the starter in the drive way and it worked first time.
The past owner bypassed the HORN because the dash pad horn stopped working. Since this part the of the dash pad is not working I think it could be an issue with the dash switch.

Question list….
1. When I press that “START KEY”, hear the Drew in the blower motor and 2 clicks (under dash and motor bay), does this tell me the start is trying to start?

2. Since I hear a CLICK under the dash and in the motor bay does this mean that the dash pad is GOOD but an issue with one of the solenoid (neutral, starter, or other relay) or the starter?

3. Will the CLICK that I hear be the same if I DO NOT enter the KEY CODE, thus one of the numbers is not working 100% and the “Start Function” will not start because the code was not entered total? (I will test this tonight by just flipping the switch “ON” and the blower “ON” and listen to the draw and for the “Clicks”)

4. Since from time to time I have reenter the code in the when out on the lake, is the because the pad is going out (horn has stopped all ready) or is this “Fix” not really the fix and issue is someplace else?

5. When I Enter the Code, should this like the Radio, Gas Gauge, and all the other accessory work right way, or should they all work when the under dash switch in started?

Since it is “cold weather” time here, I would like to try to get this issue fixed this winter. This weekend I plan on starting at the back and working forward.
Game plan.
1. Try to Start with NO code Listen for Draw, and CLICKS.

a. If same then I will guess that the dash pad has issue with one of the numbers.

b. If not I will guess that the Dash Pad is powering up and correctly.


2. Remove Switch Power to starter, enter Code ONE TIME ONLY, place volt meter on lead and check for POWER.

a. If no power, Jump the Start solenoid and see if light, this works then I know that the solenoid or the dash pad is bad.

i. Check lead going to solenoid for power, if no power know that Dash Pad is bad and solenoid is working correctly.

b. If still no power, reenter code 3 -6 times, if this fixes the issue guess that the dash pad is bad and try start button each time and the jump method.

i. If I get power back to solenoid, then check before and after solenoid leads, because at this point I will be guessing dash pad going bad.

ii. Test the start button 5+ times seeing if power will stay on each time.
1. It is does power down the dash with under dash switch and test full list again.

3. How to test the STATER WITH NOT RISK OF MOTOR DAMAGE???????
a. HELP…..

4. If I had to try to enter code a few times with NO fix, I will guess that it could be the Neutral Switch or Fuse Board that could be going bad.
a. At this point will not know what to test.

THANKS FOR ANY INPUT!!!!!

It would be great if someone (anyone) could answer my questions and let me know if my Game Plan of testing sounds correct.

SORRY FOR THE LONG @$$ list…..

[DanielC]

Sorry, my boat has a key switch, still working after 2442 hours. I do not know a lot about keypads, except to avoid it.

But if you want to be able to start the engine for a brief period of time, remove the belt going to the raw water pump. Do not run the engine for more than about 10 seconds. No water goes through the exhaust system, and the fiberglass parts in the exhaust will quickly overheat.

If you want to run the boat longer, you must supply water to the raw water pump, and leave it hooked up.

This is a flushing adapter I made to run the engine.
http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/sh...ushing+adapter

[brettmcox]

OK, last night this is what I found….
I found that the Dash Pad lights work fine. As I press the code the light on the right side will light up and after code is entered and I press Start the Left light works. The green lights behind are not the easy to see in the sunlight.
I also found that when the code is NOT entered the CLICK that I hear is not there. Thus, I know that the Dash Pad is sending power to the starter.
Since after I enter the code and press start a few time the start will kick in, I am going to guess that the starter is the issue.
I have NEVER had to reset any fuses or beakers and I do not think that messing with the shifter the issue.

Can I pull the starter and take someplace to get it tested?
Does anyone have any input?

Thanks!
Brett Cox

[jasper]

Brett, It sounds like your starter solenoid/relay is bad. It can start fine, run like a champ, and then you get the all-telling single CLICK when you hit the start key. Eventually it will not start at all. The part is inexpensive and not difficult to replace. It is located on the panel on the rear of the engine on the GT-40. It is a common problem on a number of the engines around your year-model. Make note of the proper wire connections before pulling the old one. New one here: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/solenoidstarterrelay.aspx Good luck.

[brettmcox]

a PIC would be SWEET!

and thanks!

[jasper]

There is a picture of the part on the Nautique Parts link in my previous post. It even has a picture below the main picture to click on that shows the wire-to-post assignment. To find the relay, trace the wires from the starter that go toward the back of the engine where you will find the solenoid/relay. Mine was underside of the black plastic cover and bracket on the rear of the engine - sorry, no pictures of that.

[brettmcox]

Thanks! This will help! I am wondering if i can get one from parts store (standard part).

[High altitude]

It might be the relay but it might be the starter assist solenoid. I have been assured that the root cause for both is a faulty ground. It's a hard problem to get to what the real issue is. I replaced my assist solenoid and have about 99% reliability again. For that extra 1% I keep a remote starter in the boat. I hook it up and it starts right away. Hopefully this winter I can finally eliminate the grounding issue.

If you looked on the inside of a starter assist solenoid you would see it's a pretty simple device. It basically takes a small amount of 12V electricity to close a switch that allows the electricity to flow to the starter. By using a remote starter you essentially remove this switch. The ignition circuit still needs to work (i.e. the relay must work) thus using this method helps eliminate one of the potential problems. If it won't start with the remote starter it could be a bad wire in the starter or more than likely, a bad relay. I have heard you can get a relay at a auto parts store but I went thru SKIDIM to ensure there were no issues. -Marc