99 SAN - Ballast Wiring

[flipflop]

I need some help wiring ballast pumps to factory switches. The switches appear to be daisy chained from the dash. From what I can tell, the switches are different than 00+ model. I have a 99 SAN.

Off hand, I believe there are four prongs to each switch, three on the left (vertical) and one on the right. The one on the right has two wires soldered together.

Thanks in advance.

[DanielC]

I would be leery of using the factory ballast switches for modern high volume ballast pumps.
The wiring on Correct Craft boats of this era was not the most robust, and pretty much all the accessories that were added to the boat used the too small feed and ground wire that went to, and through the dashboard wiring. If your boat has a heater, watch what happens to the volt meter when you turn the heater fan on.

I would consider running a fused load wire directly from the battery to a set of relays, that are controlled by the dash switches. Use the switches to control the relays.

On My 1997 Ski Nautique, I had to add a relay so the horn would blow reliably.

[Chexi]

I totally agree with Daniel, which is not surprising since he seems to always know what he is talking about (compliment, not being snarky here).

If you are using ballast puppies, the draw on them is huge (think 20-25 amp) and will pop breakers and possibly melt your wiring and may start a fire. You must re-wire using the recommended gauge wire described in the manual that comes with the ballast puppies (or use relays combined with thicker gauge wire between the pumps and the battery).

If you are using aerator pumps, your wire gauge can be a lot smaller. The factory wiring may work, but as Daniel says, the voltage drop is already pretty big on these older nautiques. Many people with perfect pass have had to run an additional power line to it in order to keep it from freaking out. As such, I would also recommend rewiring for aerators pumps, but you can use a much smaller gauge.

Finally, on a 99, you should not have any ballast pump switches at the dash. If you do, they were added by someone. I believe there is/are one or two toggle switches near the throttle lever. The factory plumbing has 2 aerator pumps in line (facing opposite directions). One assists taking water on, the other assists pushing back out. The OEM system also has two manual valves that open and close the air vents on the tanks. You must use these manual valves and have them in the right position (open) to fill or empty and (closed) to maintain whatever the status quo is. You must also be at rest in order to empty and ideally moving forward to fill. It is a clever, albeit complicated system, and most of us have moved to a system with more aerator pumps with check valves or a ballast puppy system.

Note, I would not wire ballast puppies to any factory switches unless you are using relays. The current could melt the switches and start a fire. You need to either use relays or add the contura switches designed to handle the current that ballast puppies can draw. Wakemakers and others sell these switches. See my ballast installation threads (99 Air and 2000 SAN).

[flipflop]

Well that gets me started. Thanks

[perry386]

I totally agree with Daniel, which is not surprising since he seems to always know what he is talking about (compliment, not being snarky here).

If you are using ballast puppies, the draw on them is huge (think 20-25 amp) and will pop breakers and possibly melt your wiring and may start a fire. You must re-wire using the recommended gauge wire described in the manual that comes with the ballast puppies (or use relays combined with thicker gauge wire between the pumps and the battery).

If you are using aerator pumps, your wire gauge can be a lot smaller. The factory wiring may work, but as Daniel says, the voltage drop is already pretty big on these older nautiques. Many people with perfect pass have had to run an additional power line to it in order to keep it from freaking out. As such, I would also recommend rewiring for aerators pumps, but you can use a much smaller gauge.

Finally, on a 99, you should not have any ballast pump switches at the dash. If you do, they were added by someone. I believe there is/are one or two toggle switches near the throttle lever. The factory plumbing has 2 aerator pumps in line (facing opposite directions). One assists taking water on, the other assists pushing back out. The OEM system also has two manual valves that open and close the air vents on the tanks. You must use these manual valves and have them in the right position (open) to fill or empty and (closed) to maintain whatever the status quo is. You must also be at rest in order to empty and ideally moving forward to fill. It is a clever, albeit complicated system, and most of us have moved to a system with more aerator pumps with check valves or a ballast puppy system.

Note, I would not wire ballast puppies to any factory switches unless you are using relays. The current could melt the switches and start a fire. You need to either use relays or add the contura switches designed to handle the current that ballast puppies can draw. Wakemakers and others sell these switches. See my ballast installation threads (99 Air and 2000 SAN).

i have the ballast puppies that come standard on the newer boats and they say it only draws 11.5 amps

[Chexi]

The Johnson Ultra ballast pumps can draw 20 amps. I just installed some last year. I don't know about other brands, but I think even at 11.5 you are still starting an older boat's dash on fire.

[flipflop]

I ended up using a couple relays and heavier gauge. The switches that were in the side panel by the shifter were after market single pole, double throw. Did a dry fit last night and works well. Now I have to make it look good. Thanks for the help.

[s_kelley2000]

I would love to see some pics of your finished switch install once you get there as I will be adding an after market ballast to my 99 this spring and I plan to mount my switches by the throttle as well. Thanks and good luck!