Bolt/stud Broken off on tower

[jkallen21]

I have a (new to me) 2006 Super Air Nautique that has a broken bolt/stud on the tower. It's one of the two "spring loaded" knobs that you loosen to lower the tower. It doesn't make me feel comfortable with just one bolt holding it in place now (factory tower). The tower fold forward which makes it a bit safer, but an abrubt stop puts a lot of pressure on a single bolt. The knob is probably this one: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/knobtow...02362007-.aspx

So, I want to drill it out and replace it. My approach is going to be penetrating oil (the bolt is not rusted) followed by a 5 min wait and then use a drill bit followed by an easyout bit. I have never used easyout and the reviews seem mixed on it's success. However, most people object to it based on it breaking off and I don't think that will happen - here's why: The bolt that is broken is attached to the knob (see picture above). It is highly unlikely that some broke it while turning it manually. While it is possible that someone attached a vise-grip to the knob and cranked it, I think it's more likely that someone either towed the boat by the tower or the tower came in contact with something while trailering. Easyout bits usually break when the bolt is seized and I don't think mine will be that way - I just need a handle on it to get it started.

1) Has anyone else had to do this? I'd love any tips.

2) Somewhat unrelated question, but the very front bow seat has a noticeable mark on the top of it due to the tower resting on it when folded down. Is this normal? The tower would rest right on the top of the seat back if I let it, so I am using some cardboard in between. What do others do?

Thanks

[Nordicron]

Pics of your tower/broken bolt would help. But my guess is that it broken/sheared off from normal use either when on the trailer and a big bump or curb was hit or a wave was hit at a weird angle causing a lateral stress on the tower. Not sure what speakers you have hanging on the tower but with speakers and 4boards in the racks that can add up and cause those bolts to break.

Not sure if they are steel bolts or alum if alum should be pretty easy to drill and easy out. You might also try super glueing something on the end and see if you can just back it out that way before drilling.

[DealsGapCobra]

I would spray it with oil (LPS 2 is my favorite) and let it sit for a few hours. Then drill and try the easy-out. Be very careful when you drill to stay in the center of the bolt and not mess up the threads in the tower. If this doesn't work or if the eazy-out breaks you can, Don't Panic (in large, friendly letters)...there are other tricks.

[ski4evr]

The bolt is stainless steel, the tower is aluminum, and these two metals do not mix well. Corrosion can form easily when these two meet over time, especially if their bond is never broken. If you do not remove bolt on a regular basis, or never, the bolt will definitely sieze at some point. A nickel anti sieze would prevent this problem. As for drilling, the stainless is very hard and easy for the drill bit to "walk" from the center. I would do as recommended above, spray with a good penetrating lubricant (we use a freezing type at work which assists in lubricant creeping into threads), use a good center punch on broken bolt to establish a center, and use a good REVERSE drill bit. The reverse drill bit will often back the bolt out on its own. When using the bolt extractor, if it starts to twist, quit. Possible some local heating with a piezo torch, and then cooling with penetrating oil, let soak in, and try again. Good Luck, those two metals create regular nuisance for me when mixed.

[Mikeski]

If you have not yet bought the new knob hit me up. I have 2 spares leftover from when I replaced my knobs with the knurled aluminum knobs from Rick. I use anti seize on mine annually and lower the tower regularly.

mikeskiw@gmail.com

[AirTool]

This is a common problem and their are several threads on it IIRC. All stated above is correct except the idea of aluminum bolts.

I vowed to take mine loose each year and never-cease them but I haven't and now I'm thinking never touch them until the end of a season when I'm prepared to overhaul both sides.

As stated above do the drilling with a left hand bit. If the bolt is not ceased, it may come out while drilling. This is an old millwright trick. Here is a link to left hand bits. Order good ones of very sizes so you can start a small pilot (after center punching). http://www.mcmaster.com/#left-hand-drill-bits/=lh35ld

Also buy a quality easy-out - not Chinese.

I'm going to predict (and I'm good at that) that the threads will be ruined when you are done. It may be possible for you to chase the threads with an oiled tap. But I doubt it seriously.

The final solution - I'd plan it from the start is to re-thread the female side with heli-coils. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threaded_insert
http://www.mcmaster.com/#Threaded-Inserts

Good bless you and take photos as you go so you can post a DIY.

[AirTool]

another link http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm

[TX-Foilhead]

50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid makes the best penetrating oil. I've used it for a few years because it's cheap since I always have the ingredients around, but found out just how good it is the other day. I had a cracked head where I sawed off what was left of a bolt to remove it, sprayed it with the mix 1 night and then again the next, then it sat while I dealt with some other issues. Got to the point I had to get it out a week later and clamped on to it and prepared for the fight and it turned out to be slightly more than finger tight. Give it a shot.

[Mikeski]

This is a common problem and their are several threads on it IIRC. All stated above is correct except the idea of aluminum bolts.

Not sure if this was directed at my post? My tower bolt knobs are knurled aluminum vs stock plastic, the studs are still stainless steel.

http://www.tachyonmotorsports.com/knobs.html

[AirTool]

Not sure if this was directed at my post?

No. The first part was directed at the orginal op. The latter to Nordi'something's "Not sure if they are steel bolts or alum"

AT

[jkallen21]

Airtool,

You were right. I ended up re-tapping. BUt I wanted to post what I learned...I purchased over $100 worth of tools and drill bits (some I didn't end up using and can return). I used a center punch (a good one - bigger than you'd think you need) to start the hole then used progressively bigger bits. The actual bolt is 3/8 16 thread. I got all the way up to a 5/16 bit (the recommended size for a re-tap). I used many diferent left-handed bit and extractors. Locking the extractor on was really not an issue - but bearing down on it with too much force made me nervous - EVERYONE says not to break the extractor. The hole was 95% centered, but not as perfect as I would have liked. Anyway, re-tapping was not going well and since I work on computers for a living and not boats, I took the whole thing to the local machine shop. These old guys knew exactly what was needed. The tower was up when I took it over to them - and that was preferred for them. They didn't ever even look at the hole I drilled - they just stock some bits up in there to determine how straight it really was (and commented that I was just a wee bit off). They then built a die to fill the hole that the knob normally would on the lower part of the tower. It was about 2 inches long and they centered a hole in it to exactly 5/16 and used a long drill bit to drill a hole straight up into the top part of the tower where my previous hole was. Eventually they went all the way through the aluminum block (not visibly - you could not see anything but you could tell that the bit had broken free to the inside of the tower tubing). I'm not sure if that was their intention, but they didn't seem at all bothered by it. Then then re-drilled the die to 3/8 and used a hand tap to re-tap the hole. This was a perfect design for this because nothing could be off-centered. After that it was simple to use the new knob I bought.
oh, The price you ask? $40 and a 6-pack of beer. Took them less than an hour. I was so pissed - I spent a good 6 hours on this and probably $65 in tools that I am stuck with (some of which are still valuable to me on other projects that I just haven't thought of yet - I keep telling myself that).
This was a learning experience. I will call around next time before tool purchases start to exceed professional help. Thanks for all the suggestions.

My advice - stop buy advanced auto and buy a tube of Pentax Anti-sieze (the sliver/nickel kind). Coat those bolt threads really well and say a little prayer each season.

[Shawn Henderson]

I know this is an older thread but one of my tower bolts broke too. My problem is trying to find where I can buy the spring loaded knob/bolt I’ve searched Nautique Parts and a couple others vendors but still no luck.

[ScooterMcgavin]

Is this the correct knob?
https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...2006-211-2004/

[Mikeski]

I know I have a knob somewhere in the abyss I call a garage. Send me an Email and I will try to find it. mikeskiw@gmail.com

[Shawn Henderson]

Is this the correct knob?
https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...2006-211-2004/

That’s it.. thank you for posting the link I’m not sure how I missed it when searching this morning.