My teak platform is slippery, especially after I "treat" it. I have read a few posts of people that suggest that it shouldn't be slippery. Whats your secret?
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Frustrated with my teak platform
2005 Ski Nautique 206 SE, Acme 422, PP SG 8.0, ND Tower
2011 strada with strada bindings
Prior Boats:
1986 Sunbird skier with 150 Evinrude VRO
1992 Mastercraft prostar 190, with Powerslot
1999 Ski Nautique GT-40
1999 Sport Nautique, GT-40 FCT,
www.skiersofknoxville.orgTags: None
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I used to lightly wet sand between each coat of oil. I'm not sure if that was the key to making it less slippery, but it sure looked nice, and was easy to walk on.'08 196LE (previous)
'07 196LE (previous)
2 - '06 196SE's (previous)
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1,000 Post Club Member
- Nov 2007
- 1575
- Fort Meadow Recevoir
- Mass
- 2012 Super Air Nautique 230 1999 Nautique Super Sport with 502 Python (for Sale)
dumb question, but wet sand with water right? I have wet sanded fiberglass to remove oxidation on my old Sport but just wanted to make sure it was the same process on a platform? What grit would you recommend? Mine is not slippery but it does not stay looking nice for very long after cleaning and re-teaking using the Star Bright products.Shawn
2012 Blue Metal Flake SAN 230
1999 Black and Tan Python 502 Powered Super Sport (for Sale)
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Being that we have long winters here in WI, I had plenty of time to slowly oil my platform. Here's my method, and I know it'll be considered overkill by some. Obviously clean the platform and give it ample time to dry. You may want to dry sand your platform, if it's not smooth or has flaws you want to take out. The grit will depend on how beat up the wood is of course. Next: Apply a layer of oil to the top and sides; let dry. Flip and oil the bottom; let dry. Once dry, wet sand lightly with 1000 or 1200 grit. Let dry, and repeat each week until the wood is thoroughly penetrated with oil - basically it stops absorbing oil. You'll easily make it through an entire summer with a beautiful oiled platform. I'll try to post some pics of mine...'08 196LE (previous)
'07 196LE (previous)
2 - '06 196SE's (previous)
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BTW, Correct Craft put their thinking caps on when designing their platforms for easy maintenance. Refinishing a slotted MC platform (pre-EVO hull) is an awful experience!!'08 196LE (previous)
'07 196LE (previous)
2 - '06 196SE's (previous)
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Wow, THAT's an oiled teak deck! Did you use any source of heat between oil coats? The "old salts" recommend doing it in the sun so the wood's grain opens up more...2008 230 TE-ZR6
1999 Pro Air Python-sold and moved away :-(
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1,000 Post Club Member
- Nov 2007
- 1575
- Fort Meadow Recevoir
- Mass
- 2012 Super Air Nautique 230 1999 Nautique Super Sport with 502 Python (for Sale)
Thanks for the tips! Unfortunately I'm pretty sure I got at least another 6 weeks of winter up in MA so I have plenty of time to get my platform in ship shape.Shawn
2012 Blue Metal Flake SAN 230
1999 Black and Tan Python 502 Powered Super Sport (for Sale)
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I used to use a stiff brush and rinse first. Let dry for a day, then use a teak brightener (liberally) and then flush and let it dry again, then I use a wire brush (yes a wire brush) do get a fresh surface and open the pores up, rinse thoroughly and I mean with a flood of water (just take the nozzle off the hose) let it dry, then sometimes I would use the teak brightener again - let it dry, then lightly oil with a good quality teak oil. The key is letting it dry good each time and naturally / preferably in the sun. I owned a few teak boats, and I used this process about once a year maybe a little longer sometimes with good results.
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Originally posted by Miljack View PostWow, THAT's an oiled teak deck! Did you use any source of heat between oil coats? The "old salts" recommend doing it in the sun so the wood's grain opens up more...
Shag has great advice too. Brushing the wood is important in prepping for oil.'08 196LE (previous)
'07 196LE (previous)
2 - '06 196SE's (previous)
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Many teak oil contain sealers. You do not want this. I use Meguire's teak oil, it is just oil.
To clean the platform, I use Dawn, and water, with a stiff nylon brush, while wiping the boat down after using it at the boat ramp. That is the most gentle cleaning method.
Two part cleaners are an acid, and a base, for neutralizing the acid. They can be hard on the metal parts.
The last resort is sanding the platform.
Once the platform is clean, I use the Meguire's oil, with bronze wool. Apply a coat, let sit, in the sun, apply a second coat, sit in the sun, repeat as necessary.
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@swc5150, that has to be the best looking teak platform I have seen...better than mine! Way to go! Have you noticed any oil residue on the bottom of your ski or board? That is the only reason that I have used oil fairly sparingly.Todd Aalbu
1999 SNOB
66.5" HO S2
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Originally posted by swc5150 View PostBTW, Correct Craft put their thinking caps on when designing their platforms for easy maintenance. Refinishing a slotted MC platform (pre-EVO hull) is an awful experience!!Peace..
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Every few years, I hit mine with about 120 grit and start from new. About 3 coats of Amazon golden teak oil, and it's looking great, and not to slick to use. As mentioned above, the wet sanding, fine piece of furniture method looks great, but is slick like glass. In between major resanding, I just hit it with a quick zero grade steel wool, dust it off, and apply a single coat of oil with the palm of my hand. Wipe off the excess with a rag and it's good to go for the next year. I spent about 15 minutes on it today. First picture is before I wiped off the excess.
1998 Ski Nautique (Red/Silver Cloud), GT-40, Perfect Pass Stargazer 8.0z (Zbox), Acme #422, Tunable Rudder.
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