Materials for a heater install

[polkaking27]

I am trying to stockpile materials to install a heater in a couple of weeks in a '95 super sport. The heater I bought didn't come with any hoses or fittings. Does anyone know how much hose (5/8 i.d. right?) that I will need to buy? Also any hints on fittings to tap in to the hot water supply, as well as the best spot to install the "y" fitting so I can get heat at idle. I have found many DIY posts (thanks for the posts) about heaters but I couldn't come up with a definitive answer to those Q's.

Thanks

[High altitude]

I did my install last year using the numerous forum threads as a starting point. They were very helpful but there are always more questions than answers.

As for your questions:

1) I'm 99% sure that it's 5/8" but I'm at work versus at home so I can't verify.
2) I would suggest 20 feet of hose. That might sound high but you are going to use 6 feet each way minimum and you don't want to fall short.
3) You didn't ask but if you need heater tube, you can get it at Walmart in the RV section. That tube is actually better than the stock tubing.
4) I got my fittings at Lowes in the plumbing section but any major plumbing department will have them. You will want to tee off the top (assuming GT-40) where the temp sensor is. From everything I read that is the hottest (versus the drains on the block). You will have to relocate the temp sensor using a tee fitting. I also suggest using a brass 90 degree fitting on the top versus a stright fitting. If you use a straight fitting coming out of the top of the block, the hose will have a tendancy to "flop" over on itself and create a slight restriction. Even a slight restriction can cause you not to get max temps.
5) As for the y fitting the company recommends between the tranny cooler and raw water pump. I put mine there and it seems to work very nicely.
6) Last thing...I put a drain valve by the Y fitting. When you go to winterize (I usually winterize a few times to extend my season) it make blowing out the system a breeze. Since that presumably is the lowest point on your system, when you add some air (I have another drain valve by the temp sensor) all the water just drains out.

Hope that helps. Getting the hose thru the hull is always the tricky part but it ended up being about a 15 minute task for me (I got lucky). Make sure that you use copious amounts of water and some mild dish soap to "lube" that baby up when you start to pull it thru. the last thing you want is some small nick that you don't discover before you go nuts trying to find a leak. Let me know if you have any other questions. -Marc

[polkaking27]

Thanks Marc, thats exactly what I was looking for!

[shag]

I actually subbed the vent hose for some RV sewage hose (new of course). It's much better construction and the same size = it will last longer in your bilge and might even convey more heat out the vent. And it's not expensive.

[polkaking27]

I finally had a chance to get in the boat today and check things out (its new to me). Looks like the previous owner had a heater installed at one time and the hoses are already ran to the drivers kick panel. I'll need to get some RV sewage hose to run my vents, and install the "y" fitting instead of it emptying into the block but other than that it looks like its going to be a plug and play install. Thanks for the help guys